Jetting, squish band modification and irregular idle rpms

Neels

New member
Alrighty folks. Got a few questions for those who know more than I.
2011 EC 300. Doing a top end on it. This is the first new piston for it since factory. I bought the bike from an older guy who is a good friend. He purchased it from another older guy of which is both of our friends so I know the owners prior to me and both being 60+ years of age this isn?t a bike that was rode hard and put up wet.
It?s probably around the 100 hour mark of engine run time.
Ok so I?m putting in a new piston(Pro-X forged), I will be checking squish while doing so and sending the head off for some work.
Here are pictures of the top of the piston and bottom of the head. (If I can figure out how to post them)

Jetting is my question, the current jetting of the carb (keihin pwk 36 is what this particular bike came with) is the following.
38 pilot
168 main
N3CH needle clip position 2
Air screw 1.5 turns out.
Elevation is around 6-700 ft above sea level
Temps ranging from 30*F to here lately 70*F
Usually run motul 710 at 44:1
Had to run amsoil interceptor in a pinch but still ran it at 44:1.

I did have a 42 pilot for the longest time but started to notice a good amount of loading up. We ride single track mostly so getting on the pipe is not always achieved.
Usually have a significant amount of spooge out the silencer as well.

On another note my idling is not what I?d want it to be. It?s by no means a hanging idle however if I wrap the throttle rpms will settle to a steady idle (where I?d like it to stay)for a few seconds then drop significantly lower, it doesn?t die but is close to it. It will however die on occasions when on a good decent but not always.
I?ve heard that modification to the squish band will help with experiencing a more positive changes in jetting, thus making jetting easier.

I love the way the bike rides, power is great, torque is awesome. Overall I really enjoy the machine. Just trying to iron out the creases and make it ?perfect?.

I know this is a lot to read and answer to but there?s really no other way to get it over.

Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

  • 1CA26B5A-92ED-4111-A2FB-B05BE99E393B.jpg
    1CA26B5A-92ED-4111-A2FB-B05BE99E393B.jpg
    129.7 KB · Views: 39
  • B4FD02D3-3E98-40F5-8A24-298830127EFA.jpg
    B4FD02D3-3E98-40F5-8A24-298830127EFA.jpg
    125 KB · Views: 40
  • 0D29471B-0144-40A1-AA70-95BB727D7208.jpg
    0D29471B-0144-40A1-AA70-95BB727D7208.jpg
    81.9 KB · Views: 40
  • 6E742783-C540-4BA2-996E-A268D6537992.jpg
    6E742783-C540-4BA2-996E-A268D6537992.jpg
    92 KB · Views: 37
  • C07224B6-30AB-4F85-A21C-67C9FAF7F609.jpg
    C07224B6-30AB-4F85-A21C-67C9FAF7F609.jpg
    74.7 KB · Views: 34
Do the head, might all fall in place and save some spooge.
You're not really that far off.

Beware of the domed piston and compression
 
I would play with the base gasket thickness (there are threads on here about how to do it) and measure everything up with the new piston and current head spec. You want to do that first so that the head can be machined down to get the proper squish.
 
Back
Top