Carby Cleaning Tutorial

RiverRight

New member
Ran my 2007 ec300 kick dry of fuel.
Now I think the carby is blocked and I need to clean it.
Its been a long time.
Is there a tutorial or video around that goes through the process?
 
Pull it apart, spray carb cleaner in, follow with compressed air, reassemble.

You can go as hard or easy as you want really. IE carb out and pulled right down, floats out, blah blah blah. Or you can just whip the bung plug out the bottom and have a look if its clean/gummed/dirty as I find that tells half the story. Then jets out (pilot and main) and clean them as above.

Simple youtube PWK carb service or PWK carb cleaning should turn up more than a couple vids.
 
I dont know what your fuel supply quality is there but in the US ours is poor. Its now a blended ethanol and this causes havoc.. Best way to clean the carbs is with an ultrasonic cleaner.. Its like a big jewelry cleaner. You can find them online for $50-500. I have one in my service truck. I use it all the time. Only thing I remove is the floats. Drop all the parts in, turn on, with heat 20-30 minutes, turning over time to time and rinse and quick blow out with air and reassemble and your set. Oh.. and I use simple green mixed 50/50 with water for cleaning solution or similar product. Comes out looking like new.
 
Thanks Cruiser, I'll be looking into that.

In the meantime .....

Cant get to and turn the bung nut with any tool I've got.
The carby needs to be turned bung nut out for access.
Looks like this was once possible, but now prevented by clash between throttle cable and fuel tank. So I believe the carby has to come out.

So what comes first, detach the throttle cable, or remove carby from manifolds?
What is the procedure for removing from manifolds? Airbox first or last?

Sorry to be a dummy.:o
 
Loosen the carb clamps on both sides (engine and air intake). Remove the slide from the carb (twist the top off). The throttle cable, slide, spring and needle will all come out. Now turn the carb back the other way and you should be able to get access to the bottom. Its tight around the front sprocket. Worst case you might need to remove the case saver, but I can sneak mine past without.
 
+1 on what Steve said, I have one too and use it the same way. I cleaned a set of CV carbs for a friends Honda Shadow that would not clean up any other way. The solution looks like crap when your done, thats how much it breaks free.

Also, if you have ethanol in your fuel a product called Startron works very well.
 
Is it safe to use with the gaskets etc in place too? Will it damage plastics? I have a mate with one and am currently doing up my old WR250F. Its got 9 years of tarnish on the outside. I'd like it to look new again!
 
Loosen the carb clamps on both sides (engine and air intake). Remove the slide from the carb (twist the top off). The throttle cable, slide, spring and needle will all come out. Now turn the carb back the other way and you should be able to get access to the bottom. Its tight around the front sprocket. Worst case you might need to remove the case saver, but I can sneak mine past without.
Thanks Jake. Carby cleaned, back together and running. Thanks.
Tell me, can you get the bowl off and access the jets with the carby in situ? (ie within the slacked off manifolds)
 
You can get to the jets (pilot and main) through the drain plug hole and the carb rotated. If you want to pull the floats you're better off pulling the whole carb and working in some clean free space.
 
I had to do a trail-side carb clean on my 2010 300, bike was very dirty, and I was not very keen on removing the carb. Removed seat and tank, pulled slide, and removed the case saver. It was then possible to rotate the carb to access the float bowl for inside cleaning. (float needle was stuck by grit in the fuel. I now have an extra in-line filter.
 
Trim the top of the case saver slightly to clear the bowl when the carb is rotated. Makes for very easy jet changes.
 
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