Clarke 3.2 on 2011?

N

Neil E.

Active member
Anyone put the Clarke tank on a 2011 yet? I'm wondering if it clears the new style carb and cable choke OK. I saw a note that said the carb on a 2010 couldn't be rotated to change jets. It looks like spark plug access will be much tighter. Also wondering if it clears the thermostat OK. The thermostat only sticks out a bit farther than the coil. I understand there is some issue with the mounting bracket vs the newer coil location. What actually holds the tank in place?

Anyone have a measurement (or pictures) on how far the tank sticks out past the radiators? (both sides with shrouds removed)
 
I found a post from Mark that answers some of my questions:

Clarke designed the new tank with two "L" brackets that screw into the tank underneath the frame. These brackets are to hold the tank in place instead of the bolt up top by the clamps and the tank strap at the back. Works great on the 07-09, BUT!!!! In 2010 GasGas's new frame design has the ignition coil going vertically on the right side instead of all the other years when it was horizontal. This switch has made the bracket position directly behind the wires and coil on the 2010. With some more patience, you maybe able to attache behind coil...with more patience. I attached the left side and with the seat secure, radiator shrouds secure, the tank isn't going to jump around.

All bolts lined right up, but the top of the shrouds are pushed out from the extra tank and the tabs won't reach to the radaitor (this is on 07-2010). I am sure with a heat gun you can form your shrouds to a cleaner fit.

Also, there is only 3 cm of room between the tank and the weld on the top of the frame/steering colum. About 3 1/2 cm from tank to steering stem and less than 3 from tank to dust cap.

Tank is 3.2, haven't measured to find out yet exact capacity, but a nice tank and a clean fit actually with directions on the "L" brackets, Clarke's own larger bolts are phillips like they have been in the past but the bolts for the "L" brackets are 10mm hex head.
Click to expand...
 
I'll have a chance to look at the Clarke tank soon, but I've also been looking at the IMS tank for GasGas up to 2004. It looks like the 3.4 gallon IMS tank comes back into the seat area more.

What has changed from 2004 to 2011? I know the rear of the bike is different (subframe and related parts). At the front, the frame has a different tubing profile and the engine is angled forward slightly.

Would the IMS tank be an absolute no-go, or might it just need minor tweaking? Could an older seat replace the current seat so it fits? I am thinking the 4T seat might allow for the current 2T battery (estart).
 
Iv got an oversize tank, not sure on brand, it came with the bike, but the tank is larger everywhere including the line of the seat, you need to cut the tongue off the bottom of the seat which fits under the top of the subframe for it to fit.
This was with an 07 bike, the oversize tank fits ok with a few modifications, but im sure its not for an 07 bike
 
I just installed one on my 2011 300.

I am not happy with this tank but don't have an IMS to compare it too. First of all I could not get 3 gallons of fuel in it. This is the reason for a big tank right? 2.8 gallons. So I filled it with boiling water and added some air pressure. Looks like, and will confirm tonight, that I gained a quart/liter. I might be able to get 3 gallons in it now. Total BS.

The shroud nuts on the tank do not line up well with the shrouds, the wings on the tank stick out and the shrouds don't line up with the top radiator gromet holes. The top and front of the shrouds don't fit the tank well. I also needed to redrill the fuel petcok hole.

Good news, you can change the plug and rejet the bike like you could with the stock tank.

Soooo, here is what I have done: with the boiling water the tank softens and is easily expanded with a little air pressure. You can push a vacuum line plug over the end of the vent tube or some other item to seal it off. This expansion process pushes the wings up and out and really messes up the shrouds and fitment. I took a strap (you could use rope etc) and looped it around the ends of the wings and pulled them in toward the frame. This will hopefully let the top of the shrouds fit the radiators much better. Anyway, I did this last night and left it alone to cool down etc.

I may have to do it one more time but if it works the tank might a permanent fixture of my bike. IF NOT, I will sell this tank to any of you for a very very very fair price. I am pretty OCD about this stuff so what is acceptable to many is not so much for me : ) It is tough being crazy.
 
Good news, you can change the plug and rejet the bike like you could with the stock tank.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brent this removes one concern for me. The main issue is the "wings". I'm doing a modification whereby I would not be using the stock shrouds at all.

How far do the wings stick out on each side past the rads? Do you think the wings could be warmed and pulled in to be flush with the rads (and still get the tank on and off)?

Did you take any before and after pictures with the shrouds removed (tank as installed, then tank expanded)?

Absolute total capacity does not matter to me. If I got 11 litres instead of the stock 9.5 litres, I'd be happy.
 
I am going to find out tonight because that is exactly what I did, heat the tank and pull in the wings. I feel pretty optimistic it will indeed work. The wings stuck out about 1 inch past the edge of the radiator. It was not a lot but the shrouds then would not mate up with the radiator well at all.

Removing the tank with the wings more inboard should not be an issue. There is actually quite a bit of room between them and the frame.

I did not take photos, sorry. I am real bad about that stuff. When I get my head down and am frustrated with a project I don't think about that stuff. I will try and think about it tonight when I am working on the fitment.

Capacity: I get your point. However, when I race dez that capacity is the difference of stopping at E gas twice, plus a main gas. That means I will be down 1 min minimum. That can be the difference between first and 10th in some cases. Also, when I ride the high country .5 gallons is at least 15 miles. 15 miles of walking in Idaho backcountry in motorcycle gear is very bad. A typical high country ride is 85-120 miles, 8000-10000 feet of mountain goat country.
 
Not in stock form, it slid right on perfectly. There may be an issue once I have the tank blown up though. Ha ha. That area expanded a bunch when I put the pressure to it. I so hope it all works out. I am really really ready for this crap to be over with so I can focus on riding and racing.
 
Thank you very much for the very complete report. It's dissapointing that the advertised capacity of the tank does not match the real one... :(

And thanks a lot for the tips to increase it too! ;)
 
OK, so I got to test it out yesterday on a 120 mile ride. Wooohoooo.

Using the straps to pull the wings in did work fine and there is no issue with fitment or pushing on the hoses. The seat was a little difficult to put in place but it was minor deal. The shrouds still do not fit well at all. But they were not worse or really any better, so that was a wash.

I did manage to get 3 gallons in the tank though. I think I will double check my fuel capacity. My gas can is marked but I think I will re-check it at the pump to ensure capacity. I know I got 1.25 to 1.5 quarts more fuel in the tank. I put fuel in the gas can to my 3 gal mark and poured it in the tank. It took all but about 1.5 to 1.75 quarts. I emptied the tank back into the gas can. Expanded the tank, dumped the same fuel back in. It took almost all of it. Very little left over, 8 ounces or so.
 
Good solid information, thanks. Where are your wings now in relation to the rads? Do you think I would be able to reshape the wings enough that they would actually be inboard of the rads?
 
Mine are flush to inboard now. The shroud fitment issue was affected by this in the beginning but with the tank expanded slightly the wings are not so much the issue any more. It is just a poor match up.

I think I will heat the shrouds and try to mold them to the tank and to the radiators. There a couple of spots where the shroud shape could be changed and fitment would then be a bit better.
 
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