Clearing Logs...
- Thread starter Leo
- Start date
desertgasser300
Banned
Still waiting for the log scene? 
Fred1956
New member
Google 'jap zap'. Basically it is a trials move, get the front wheel just high enough to 'skip' off the top of the obstacle, this loads the rear suspension a bit and then you 'blip' the throttle and 'unload' the rear, this will lift the rear wheel up to take the second hit on the obstacle instead of the frame/skid plate (takes practice and good timing)
Fred1956
New member
Technical description
A zap is used to climb an obstacle higher then the wheelbase of the motorcycle. It does this by making the rear wheel hit the obstacle far above ground. When done correctly the zap will cause the rear wheel to contact the obstacle almost exactly where the front wheel made contact. It's a violent maneuver that happens extremely fast. The zap uses engine power and momentum to fully compress the suspension to store enough energy to launch the bike up the obstacle. Where the two get confused is the removal of power. The zap requires a burst of throttle to lift the front wheel to the desired height, shut off power to unload the suspension and then a second burst of power to drive the front end into the obstacle. This has two effects. First it causes the frame of the bike to rotate back very quickly by changing the vector of the front wheel from forward motion to upward motion. Second it compresses both suspensions storing tremendous energy. Here's where the two get confused and the main reason why zaps fail. After the front wheel hits the throttle is chopped (or the clutch is slipped if you're really, REALLY good). This unloads the rear suspension launching the, now rotating, bike to hit the obstacle with the rear wheel at a height that effectively shortens the obstacle to less then a wheelbase. The stored inertia in the engine completes the manuever walking the rear wheel the rest of the way up while the frame rotates forward. While all this is going on the rider is doing his share as well. At the first burst of throttle the rider crouches back to help lift the front wheel. Just before contact of the front wheel on the obstacle the rider essentially jumps forward and up. This helps load the suspension and places the rider in the correct position to complete the manuever. When it all works you'll feel the triple clamps hit you in the chest but before you know what happened you'll be on top of the obstacle, no wheel spin and no momentum and that's the real power of the technique.
A zap is used to climb an obstacle higher then the wheelbase of the motorcycle. It does this by making the rear wheel hit the obstacle far above ground. When done correctly the zap will cause the rear wheel to contact the obstacle almost exactly where the front wheel made contact. It's a violent maneuver that happens extremely fast. The zap uses engine power and momentum to fully compress the suspension to store enough energy to launch the bike up the obstacle. Where the two get confused is the removal of power. The zap requires a burst of throttle to lift the front wheel to the desired height, shut off power to unload the suspension and then a second burst of power to drive the front end into the obstacle. This has two effects. First it causes the frame of the bike to rotate back very quickly by changing the vector of the front wheel from forward motion to upward motion. Second it compresses both suspensions storing tremendous energy. Here's where the two get confused and the main reason why zaps fail. After the front wheel hits the throttle is chopped (or the clutch is slipped if you're really, REALLY good). This unloads the rear suspension launching the, now rotating, bike to hit the obstacle with the rear wheel at a height that effectively shortens the obstacle to less then a wheelbase. The stored inertia in the engine completes the manuever walking the rear wheel the rest of the way up while the frame rotates forward. While all this is going on the rider is doing his share as well. At the first burst of throttle the rider crouches back to help lift the front wheel. Just before contact of the front wheel on the obstacle the rider essentially jumps forward and up. This helps load the suspension and places the rider in the correct position to complete the manuever. When it all works you'll feel the triple clamps hit you in the chest but before you know what happened you'll be on top of the obstacle, no wheel spin and no momentum and that's the real power of the technique.
Fred, I think you screwed my Mojo. I read that twice, and maybe understood half of it, but I can do it. I just never knew exactly what I was doing! Now I'm gonna be scared, knowing how complicated it really is!
I should say I can do it right about half the time. I usually get over, but sometimes I am too agressive and almost endo, other times too timid and end up slamming the obstacle with the skid plate or shock linkage. Too agressive is usually best believe it or not. It's one of those things you really have to commit to.
I sometimes give a hard tap on the front brake to compress the front suspension as well, before I wheelie into the log. It seems to lessen the impact if the forks are rebounding a bit before the front tire hits the top of the log, and it also releases even more energy from the shock as it extends. Seems to help the shock out a bit. I also try to squeeze the bike with my knees, and "jump" just a bit with my legs pulling up on the top of the bike
. I think all I'm doing is helping the bike rotate on the axis of my knees rather than the bike having to "toss" my body up with it. I used to stand completely doing this, but now I sort of crouch, with my butt back and elbows flexed, head almost over the bars. But I'm 6'2" with long legs, so in that stance I'm still pretty centered. I've watched shorter guys do the same thing but they are almost standing completely, and have their head over the bars more than me, leaning way forward as the front tire hits the log.
I've seen video of Trials riders that can jump medium obatacles without even skipping the front tire off of it. They do a big wheelie, then shove down hard on the pegs, compressing the shock, then throw their body forward while squeezing the bike with their legs, and use the momentum of the rebounding shock to rotate the back tire over the obstacle. I've tried it, can hardly ever get it right. I usually just end up slamming the back tire hard on the middle of the obstacle when I don't skip the front tire.
I should say I can do it right about half the time. I usually get over, but sometimes I am too agressive and almost endo, other times too timid and end up slamming the obstacle with the skid plate or shock linkage. Too agressive is usually best believe it or not. It's one of those things you really have to commit to.
I sometimes give a hard tap on the front brake to compress the front suspension as well, before I wheelie into the log. It seems to lessen the impact if the forks are rebounding a bit before the front tire hits the top of the log, and it also releases even more energy from the shock as it extends. Seems to help the shock out a bit. I also try to squeeze the bike with my knees, and "jump" just a bit with my legs pulling up on the top of the bike
. I think all I'm doing is helping the bike rotate on the axis of my knees rather than the bike having to "toss" my body up with it. I used to stand completely doing this, but now I sort of crouch, with my butt back and elbows flexed, head almost over the bars. But I'm 6'2" with long legs, so in that stance I'm still pretty centered. I've watched shorter guys do the same thing but they are almost standing completely, and have their head over the bars more than me, leaning way forward as the front tire hits the log.
I've seen video of Trials riders that can jump medium obatacles without even skipping the front tire off of it. They do a big wheelie, then shove down hard on the pegs, compressing the shock, then throw their body forward while squeezing the bike with their legs, and use the momentum of the rebounding shock to rotate the back tire over the obstacle. I've tried it, can hardly ever get it right. I usually just end up slamming the back tire hard on the middle of the obstacle when I don't skip the front tire.
theboogieman
New member
The technique in the film is closer to a splatter than a zap.
The zap is for (well, whatever you want ) but primarily for anything with an underhang that the back wheel can't impact using a splatter.
Whichever you use they both have the same principle and are a lot easier to understand if you break them down into their parts.
Start with a 'pop' wheelie. Not a 'down the street reving and chopping to stay aloft wheelie.
A pop wheelie is a slow controlled lift of the front.
Stand up, compress the forks slightly with a little forward lean or a touch of the front brake, then 'bend and snap' with your knees.
Which is bend them forward and then snap them straight.
Imagine this forming a sort of triangle in the bike, with lines running through your arms to the front wheel along the bottom of the bike to the back wheel and up your spine.
As you snap your knees straight you lean back apply a 'little' throttle and the triangle pivots rearwards.
The front gently rises and you then decide to stay there or lower the front with the rear brake, clutch or throttle.
The wheelie is the first part of most techniques.
When you have it down to the point that, you can decide the height and length of the pop wheelie, then you just use it when approaching any obstacle. (or river crossing)
Ride up to objects, pop a wheelie and then drop the front onto or against the object. If you want to, stay there improving your balance.
Pivot turns are this technique, bouncing the front gently off things to turn around.
For a zap, when the front drops onto the object, squat and lift the rear with a blip onto the object.
Jumping with your body means that you help the bike by getting out of it's way, and being where the bike wants to go to, not where it was.
Think of a push bike trials rider doing a sideways hop onto a bench.
He can't lift himself and the bike from position he's in, just as we can't lift our own feet of the ground.
So he jumps up and pulls the bike to where he was.
A good practice is to ride toward small things, compress the suss and hop over as you reach them.
Then pop a wheelie and do it with just the back wheel. (essentially a bunny hop one half of the bike at a time).
With the above technique you can then use a splatter.
Pop a wheelie and blip the throttle to power up and into the object.
Just get the angle of the bike far enough rearward to drive the rear wheel up the object.
If you bend your legs and lift as you go over the object the bike fills the gap where your legs were.
If you 'hold pressure' (keep your legs straight) the bikes back wheel rides over the object.
What you're after with all the different techniques like these is to pivot over the object on the rear wheel not the sump.
Hope that makes enough sense to be of some use.
The zap is for (well, whatever you want ) but primarily for anything with an underhang that the back wheel can't impact using a splatter.
Whichever you use they both have the same principle and are a lot easier to understand if you break them down into their parts.
Start with a 'pop' wheelie. Not a 'down the street reving and chopping to stay aloft wheelie.
A pop wheelie is a slow controlled lift of the front.
Stand up, compress the forks slightly with a little forward lean or a touch of the front brake, then 'bend and snap' with your knees.
Which is bend them forward and then snap them straight.
Imagine this forming a sort of triangle in the bike, with lines running through your arms to the front wheel along the bottom of the bike to the back wheel and up your spine.
As you snap your knees straight you lean back apply a 'little' throttle and the triangle pivots rearwards.
The front gently rises and you then decide to stay there or lower the front with the rear brake, clutch or throttle.
The wheelie is the first part of most techniques.
When you have it down to the point that, you can decide the height and length of the pop wheelie, then you just use it when approaching any obstacle. (or river crossing)
Ride up to objects, pop a wheelie and then drop the front onto or against the object. If you want to, stay there improving your balance.
Pivot turns are this technique, bouncing the front gently off things to turn around.
For a zap, when the front drops onto the object, squat and lift the rear with a blip onto the object.
Jumping with your body means that you help the bike by getting out of it's way, and being where the bike wants to go to, not where it was.
Think of a push bike trials rider doing a sideways hop onto a bench.
He can't lift himself and the bike from position he's in, just as we can't lift our own feet of the ground.
So he jumps up and pulls the bike to where he was.
A good practice is to ride toward small things, compress the suss and hop over as you reach them.
Then pop a wheelie and do it with just the back wheel. (essentially a bunny hop one half of the bike at a time).
With the above technique you can then use a splatter.
Pop a wheelie and blip the throttle to power up and into the object.
Just get the angle of the bike far enough rearward to drive the rear wheel up the object.
If you bend your legs and lift as you go over the object the bike fills the gap where your legs were.
If you 'hold pressure' (keep your legs straight) the bikes back wheel rides over the object.
What you're after with all the different techniques like these is to pivot over the object on the rear wheel not the sump.
Hope that makes enough sense to be of some use.
skid jackson
New member
I can't see the utube footage, but that pics looks a good log to practice on. Not huge, but up off the ground a bit. I used to jump everything, but these days I'd look for a clean way around that log in the pic unless it was in a race.
I have just got to buy a trials bike! I only own 3 acres, but I could make a gnarly trials course. Maybe do one of those Erzburg style homeade wood obstacles so I can ride up and over my 18 foot tall shop. Make log ramps up into the trees?
I have just got to buy a trials bike! I only own 3 acres, but I could make a gnarly trials course. Maybe do one of those Erzburg style homeade wood obstacles so I can ride up and over my 18 foot tall shop. Make log ramps up into the trees?
