Custom Shorty or Cannon?

shaheeb

New member
The little 200 that could needs a little help in the respiratory department.

I am considering buying a Cannon Racecraft silencer. Or removing the q stealth and cut it down shorter to a custom shorty. Are there any cons to this? It seems like a silencer is very simple but I had to ask. :p

The goal is to liven up the bottom end.
 
The little 200 that could needs a little help in the respiratory department.

I am considering buying a Cannon Racecraft silencer. Or removing the q stealth and cut it down shorter to a custom shorty. Are there any cons to this? It seems like a silencer is very simple but I had to ask. :p

The goal is to liven up the bottom end.

My beliefs were that a longer pipe/more volume will boost low range torque (think powervalve cover). By shortening the pipe and reducing volume you're going to cut back bottom end and boost over rev.

I could be way off the mark though ;)
 
i believe the pipe needs to be longer before the back pressure taper to affect the bottom end.. shorter muffler just gets louder - at least for me anyways. cutting the silencer shorter should have little effect on the power...
 
A head mod is the way to go but to answer your question 2 strokes would run a short silencer in supercross for more punch and a long one in motorcross for more top end
 
A head mod is the way to go but to answer your question 2 strokes would run a short silencer in supercross for more punch and a long one in motorcross for more top end

Maybe that's how they do it in California ...:eek: but in the rest of the world the longer silencers mellow out the power AND restrict top end.

Mill the head - you'll be glad you did!
 
I suppose you're right that's probly why the big five are out here. I do know that when traction is good and I'm running my carbon fiber buds racing silencer there's not many that can hold with it on a tight course it just revs out very quick. When conditions are a little slick or are opened up quite a bit more I run 1 of my carbon fiber silencers that I made which are little bit longer and seem to run forever on top but then again this is california
 
Unless if the silencer is seriously restricting flow I'd say it would have very little effect on performance other than sound (and we all know a bike that sounds faster feels faster). The chamber will have more profound effects on the engine characteristics. A head mod and squish correction will make it run the way it was designed too. Tightening tolerances to factory spec can only make a good thing better.

A shorter pipe = less back pressure = faster revving and more over rev
A longer pipe = more back pressure = slower revving and less over (may feel liek it revs for longer though)

I have a feeling you're both saying the same thing..
 
Mufflers wont affect the power that much, (there's already a stinger section on the pipe) but will affect our ability to access land. Rip it apart & repack it with decent material, but clear out the perforated holes with a torch.

With my 200 the best things I did were
1. LTR jet kit
2. Took a base gasket out (they come std with 2) & machined the head for 1mm squish clearance + took a little out of the chamber as the combined affect would have raised the compression ratio too much. Think I aimed for 14:1 running 95 oct gas.

This gave it more bottom end & ability to hold onto a gear in a hillclimb. Actually the range was improved right the way through.
 
not much else to do.

I've run out of ways to make this little 200 go.

The head and cylinder were ported and machined by eric gorr strictly for LOW END after squish measurements were taken with test solders. 36mm carb in place of 38mm oe unit for low end. v force reeds were put in place of the gg stamped units.

Chasing a strong bog off the bottom, the result was a mean mid range punch that was too hard to control in the middle of hillclimbs.

jetting was the best yet with ddk/3rd, 42, 172, #6 slide. I just recently put in a 40/170 and waiting to ride. the 36 needs leaner settings than the 38mm did.

i just recently tried a g2 throttle cam. The 400 cam made the bike turn into a much more fun trail machine!!! Up until this point I did not really like the gasser to be honest! But, I have not ridden my ktm or my yz since then! which says alot because I get bored riding one bike all the time... you could say this bike has been a challenge. I think I must be picky as the trails are demanding.

I decided to get a Cannon silencer afterall. shortys always kick arse here in the short ultra tight trails we have. Next will be retarding the timing in hopes of putting the throttle cam back on the yz.
 
No offence to you or Eric Gorr Shaheeb, but getting that port work done right off the bat kind of makes your bike a bit of an odd ball now. No one really knows what Eric has done with it to boost the bottom end, and by all acccounts of your experience it hasn't achieved what you were looking for.

I know EG is well renouned, but it still doesn't mean he gets things 100% right all the time. Especially with a bike he hasn't had that much exposure to.
 
I suppose all I can do now is ask him. dont know what else to say...would trying a new cylinder be a good idea then?
 
No harm in asking questions. I can't remember how you timed the ports on the cyl either. How many base gaskets etc. You could ask him what he recommends or simply let him know that you'd like a bit more bottom still and what the options are from here.

For a 200 chasing bottom-mid performance I'd have stuck with the stock jug. Blue printed cyl and matched the ports, set the piston a mm or two above the exhaust port using the gasket stack, have the compression raised slightly and squish corrected. Jet to suit. If after that you still wanted more bottom then I'd be looking at a 250/300.

You could also try an FMF Gnarly as suggested. They are stated to boost bottom end.
 
There is a horror story about EG work for every good one. Take your pick. I don't understand why you jumped the gun so fast having your cyl. hacked before learning the motor and trying some more conservative mods. When set up right, it should run like a softer 250, kind of like you would expect to to run.
 
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