Dial a Jet

[blueberry]

I just bought my first GG. Its a 2003 EC250 converted to a 300. I came off a 200 KTM380 and was surprised how much I like the GG. The 380 was an unbelievable pain to jet and prior to selling it was considering a carb mod through Dicks racing and having him install a dial a jet kit as well as offset bore the carb to a 39. Here is a link to his site

http://www.dicksracing.com/index.php

Has anybody used the Dial a jet on their GG? I searched the forums and didnt find any reference to it.



Thanks

 

[webmaster]

The Dial-a-jet has been around a long, long, long time - I don't think it addresses the issue. It's extremely easy to rotate the carb around and change out jets on your new bike. Rotate it one way and pull the slide then rotate it the other way and pull the bottom of the carb off.

Give Ron a call at RB-Designs - he is a sponsor here. He makes several modifications to the carb that completely clean it up. In addition, you should consider having the squish and combustion chamber re-shaped by him. This will make the bike run much cleaner and stronger- you will see greater fuel efficiency as well.

His website is www.rb-designs.com and he hangs out here occasionally.

You can do a search on the forum here to find reviews of his work.

jeff
webmaster
GasGas Riders Club

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

While changing jetting is easy and RB mods are the way to go, I can not change my piolt, float height, or main by rotating the carb because it will hit the tank. So unless the tank comes off as well than I can not just rotate it.

 

[webmaster]

My '01 was not much different than your '02 and I could rotate the carb enough to access the pilot and main without removing the tank. With the LTR case saver installed - I did need to pull it off to get it out of the way.

You can't rotate it all the way around - but you can rotate it enough to remove the slide - then once the slide is removed and moved out of the way - you can rotate it further in the opposite direction to get access to the bottom of the carb.

You can replace the screws on the float bowl with allen heads to make it easier. Ron at RB-Designs packages up some stainless allen bolts with the allen key for $6.

jeff
Webmaster
GasGas Riders Club

 

[rpduc]

While changing jetting is easy and RB mods are the way to go, I can not change my piolt, float height, or main by rotating the carb because it will hit the tank. So unless the tank comes off as well than I can not just rotate it.

?????

Even with the throttle cable and slide pulled?

Do you have an aftermarket tank on there?

The difficulties I had rotating the carb were the big nut on the float bowl hitting my case saver and all of the vent tubes had hardened so much they just wouldn't flex. I removed the offending section of the case saver with a hacksaw and replaced all of the crappy stiff OEM vent lines with Tygon fuel line. That stuff stays soft and flexible. Much more betterer.

---------------------------------

I guess I'm too slow at typing... kinda redundant... but thanks for reminding me to pick up some allen screws for the float bowl Jeff.

 

[webmaster]

Rpduc -
No worries. I forgot about having to pursuade that long tangle of vent tubes to go along. I recall that Les ran half the vents up and half down whereas stock they all run down. The ones running down were trimmed at a 45 degree angle.... (too much information - I know...)

By the way, I did have trouble losing track of that little pivot pin for the float on occasion. In other words, be more careful than I was if you are trying to do this alongside the trail.

jeff

 

[rpduc]

Sorry blueberry , I guess we should get back to YOUR query.

I'd like to hear some first hand reports on that dial a jet. Even though my MC 250 is cake to jet the Dial a jet sounds like an interesting concept.

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

I have a clark tank on it. Also like you said the bottom drain plug bolt is in the way of the case saver. I am doing the carb and head mod sometime soon so the bike should never need any major change unless ridding somewhere really different.

 

[GG27]

Hi all. I had the same issues when I first got my EC 250, carb was hitting my gas tank and case saver. You just have to push the air box intake and the carb passes both the case saver and the tank. It really takes about 10 minutes to change the main, the pilot is a bit messy since you have to take the bottom off and the pilot gets out only when you rotate carb down and tap the carb body so pilot slides out. Care should be taken not to loose the float bowl shaft(I hold it in place with one finger).

 

[blueberry]

I havent found changing the jets difficult for me. I try to keep pretty good notes on what set up worked well for me dependant on conditions altitude etc. I have definietly been looking at RB designs especially considering all of the very happy GG riders. I found the dial a jet interesting because I could reduce prep time and increase ride time! The article on Dicks website sure liked it. I was hoping someone here had tried it. Thanks for the input!!

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

Well it does increase fule economy because it atomizes fule more than just the carb alone. Seems like a good mod to me.

 

[Eric K]

Well it does increase fule economy because it atomizes fule more than just the carb alone. Seems like a good mod to me.

What is your personal experience - how much did your fuel economy increase?

 

[GMP]

If you split the vents (like you should) and route two up top with some slack, rotating the carb is no problem with a stock tank. I trimmed my LTR case saver a few mm so the drain clears.

All bikes are a bit different. My stock '03 was a PIA to get right, my '07 runs perfectly and needs no more than air screw tweaks. '00 was somewhere in between. Its all about tolerances and environmental conditions and how they add up. The RBD mods take care of a lot of the tolerance issues.

From my experience you have to get the slide right or you will be chasing the rest of the jetting forever. Once the bike is set up decent you trailside changes should be minimal unless your specifically out working on jetting for extreme environmental changes.

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

I do not have one but a friend has a dualy set-up (2 in one carb) on his sled and it makes much better response. As for fule economy he got about 2 or 3 more MPG.

 

[webmaster]

As I said previously, the dial-a-jet has been around since the 70s or maybe earlier. The main role is to provide external adjustability for the main jet circuit; I always attributed mileage gains to having a proper mixture ratio - not any additional atomization provided. That's why my response to it was "why? the main jet is relatively easy to change on this bike..."

Agreeing with Glenn (that's usually so easy to do) - what I have seen watching threads here is that folks don't have any trouble dialing in "the main" - they have trouble with burbling off bottom and transition to mid etc. Getting the slide, needle, pilot, idle screw and air screw adjustment in the right starting point is key

And some might think they found a good combination - a slightly warmer or colder day will throw things off. - having one thing adjust slightly one way or another to compensate for something else (needle, pilot, idle screw setting, etc.) being slightly off can make "life difficult".

Frankly, if I were to spend $100 to get better fuel mileage - I would dial in the squish and compression by having the cylinder head mod'ed by RB so that the engine is running more efficiently.

As a sidenote - It looks like Ron dropped his price down to $165 for gasgas carb mods which includes return shipping - with Dick's racing charging $350 to bore the carb and install a dial-a-jet - looks like he can raise his prices...

jeff

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

Wait I see now why I got a PM.

This is right from the Thunder Products site
Dial-A-Jet IS NOT like a Power Jet. A Power Jet feeds raw liquid fuel, just like the other circuits, and works from 7/8 throttle and up. Dial-A-Jet feeds emulsified fuel for instant throttle response and works from just above idle to full throttle.

Dial-A-Jet feeds a fine consistent mist of emulsified fuel instead of raw liquid fuel like all other jetting circuits in your carb. Pre-atomized fuel weighs 10% of what raw liquid fuel weighs, therefore, it is very responsive to engine needs.

Dial-A-Jet gives you great throttle response. The emulsified fuel is delivered to the engine instantly and acts as an intermediate circuit until the heavy wet fuel from the other circuits catch up.

Now sorry it does not atomize but emulsified which still increases your fule economy.

Yes the RB is the way to go but why not add a Dial-a-jet to the RBD modded carb?