EC200 Clutch - or lack of

[twowheels]

When I pulled the replacement unit apart to inspect the bore prior to install it went back in and sealed without any fuss, so from my experience I'd say pretty easy. Same experience with the original unit, although it had other sealing issues.

Did you use a sleeve of any kind to get the lip seal started?

 

[mrkartoom]

No I just had everything lubed up good with mineral oil and worked it in. Thinking about it it probably would be safer to use something to ensure it's not marred or torn on the way in. Some bores be sharper than mine on the edges and you never know. I've never had an issue on nissans either, but maybe just lucky.

 

[twowheels]

Rebuild Kit Solved the Problem ...

... although the stock plunger and seals looked good to my naked eye. What I did find was this - three little pieces of metallic debris in the plunger bore. Before you call for a rebuild kit (which I would be happy to sell you) take a stab at cleaning the bore. You'll only be out a couple of minutes and some mineral oil.

 

[GMP]

What is going on with AJPs QC? These masters used to be very good, with the best feel in the business and they would last for years without a rebuild. Now it sounds like quality has taken a dump and causing all these problems. These things were unheard of in the past, I just rebuilt my '07 at the begining of the season for PM, not because it was leaking.

 

[twowheels]

Not sure, but may be moot going forward. It looks like the 2012 Six Days are being shown with Magura masters.

 

[mrkartoom]

You are the 3rd person I know of now that found leftover machining debris in their m/c. I'd have been the 4th if the fragments dangling in my original unit broke loose.

 

[motogroove]

Please clarify Free Play

If you have no free play in the lever it can result in inconsistent engagement points with the lever. Free play=good.
Otherwise it could be the seal

I have read this in several places here.
Just to clarify:
Are we talking about free play between the adjustable actuator on the lever and the pin-with-bucket? Or are we talking about free play in the sprung range between the pin-with-bucket and the Master Cylinder Plunger?

Asking the same question in a different way:
Should I adjust the lever so that there's a tiny gap between the actuator tip and the bottom of the bucket on the pin-with-bucket?
Or should I adjust so the the pin-with-bucket is compressing its spring a little, but not touching the main plunger yet?

I'm guessing that the practical answer has to do with whether the little spring on the pin-with-bucket is strong enough to move the main plunger.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

-Dean
waiting for the call - rained like crazy last night. Track is freshly watered.

 

[noobi]

I set mine so that there is a few mm of distance before the lever starts touching the bucket on the master cylinder, if that makes sense?
I assume thats what is meant by free play, because the slave cylinder isnt really adjustable, however I cant comment on what other people mean, this is just how I interpret it.

 

[motogroove]

I set mine so that there is a few mm of distance before the lever starts touching the bucket on the master cylinder, if that makes sense?
I assume thats what is meant by free play, because the slave cylinder isnt really adjustable, however I cant comment on what other people mean, this is just how I interpret it.

Yes, that make sense. And that's how I did it, except maybe only a skinny 1mm of distance is what I set - just enough so that I was sure it could release all pressure on the bucket.

It does seem like that little sprung range there on the pin-with-bucket uses up a lot of lever travel, but I guess that action adds some feel to the system.