Yes my Clutch does drag.

[AZRickD]

I just got done taking the clutch components out.

First thing I noticed is that the Gasser has waaay better clutch components than my Kawasaki.

I squeezed the clutch lever to see how much throw I got which made the clutch lever pump up something fierce. I'll have to bleed it to get the pressure down so the rod moves back.

The only to-spec area is that the steels are flat, with no edge to them. Everything else, however, needs some attention:

The friction plates are well below tolerances (.105 inches/2.67mm) and the springs are a tad compressed (1.7 inches/43.2mm). Time for a new clutch kit from, who? Go Fasters? He mentioned that I would need OEM steels as aftermarket steels don't work so well in the Gasser. Hopefully he can get them to me before next weekend's club ride.

The basket didn't have horrific peening, but there was some. Not nearly has bad as on my KDX. I lightly filed it down.

What was somewhat alarming to me was the outside edge of the basket fingers which was independent of the peening. They had some pronounced edges to me -- something like a serrated butter knife. Like a bad sand casting. The inside edge was smooth and round. I filed the outside edge to get rid of the grabbies.

That's it for now.

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

Why not just get Moose Racing Steels, frictions, and springs at your local dealer. Any one that carries Parts Unlimited will be able to get them to you in 5 days. Or you could try DP clutch parts. I hear the DP steels weigh more than the stock steels and creat more rotating mass. Just an option.

 

[AZRickD]

I've heard a "rumor" that the Gassers don't like aftermarket steels and that OEM is prefered.

True or nay?

 

[Skidad]

I just got done taking the clutch components out.

First thing I noticed is that the Gasser has waaay better clutch components than my Kawasaki.

I squeezed the clutch lever to see how much throw I got which made the clutch lever pump up something fierce. I'll have to bleed it to get the pressure down so the rod moves back.

The only to-spec area is that the steels are flat, with no edge to them. Everything else, however, needs some attention:

The friction plates are well below tolerances (.105 inches/2.67mm) and the springs are a tad compressed (1.7 inches/43.2mm). Time for a new clutch kit from, who? Go Fasters? He mentioned that I would need OEM steels as aftermarket steels don't work so well in the Gasser. Hopefully he can get them to me before next weekend's club ride.

The basket didn't have horrific peening, but there was some. Not nearly has bad as on my KDX. I lightly filed it down.

What was somewhat alarming to me was the outside edge of the basket fingers which was independent of the peening. They had some pronounced edges to me -- something like a serrated butter knife. Like a bad sand casting. The inside edge was smooth and round. I filed the outside edge to get rid of the grabbies.

That's it for now.

This kind of wear from an 05 is kind of surprising to me from everything I've read about the Gassers. If you aren't a clutch fanning type rider it sure sounds like the PO was.

I had to recently finally had to replace the clutch basket and damper cushions on my 10 YO KTM 250. I had bought all new fibers and steels but the originals were still within spec so I just put em back in. Clutch is working just fine. Amazing


Skidad

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

All of my clutch is in spec and its got alot of hours on it. I dont use the clutch very much thoe. The owner befor me might have but mabe not.

 

[GMP]

DO NOT pump up the clutch with nothing to limit the travel of the slave cylinder. Not sure about the '05s but the '03s back had a circlip that could be broken from the slave housing if the piston bottomed against it. My '07 has no circlip, the piston just falls out of the slave if not retained.

AZRick,

GGs have the most durable clutches out there. Bucksnbikes just put a basket in my old '00 last year, and my '03 still has the original. The baskets are hard anodized, they will show some light marks on the fingers but not notch excessively. If someone before you had the bright idea of filing the basket to make it "perfect", then its history, because the anodizing was filed off and now the plates are riding on a soft aluminum surface.

There was once a guy in PA that had a machine shop that fixed clutch baskets with steel inserts. "Stormin Norman Machine" or "Storman Norman Racing" I beleive. No website. I had the phone # somewhere, I'll try and find it.

 

[AZRickD]

DO NOT pump up the clutch

Now you tellz me. Let's hope I can get it back.

I wouldn't say the basket is notched. I had some discoloration where some light peening had begun. I'm not concerned.

The issue with the basket was the outside edge of the fingers that felt rough to me, like it could grab, whereas the inside edge of the finger was nice and smooth.

The previous owner liked to ride very technical and rocky terrain. I do as well, but not quite as much. I wouldn't be surprised if he fanned it through much of the rides over at the "Mile Markers" which is a place in NW Phoenix known for terrain that requires ample clutch manipulation.

There was no evidence of previous filing of the basket. I'm not concerned about it. I could just get the new clutch kit and bolt it together.

So, about these OEM steels. Given that they appear to be in-spec and not discolored, do I need to replace the steels? They look fine to me.

If one were to replace the steels, would you recommend OEM-only steels as GoFasters suggests? I'm thinking that I can I just get the fibers and springs from a local parts distributor? (monkeybuttparts.com).

Thoughts?

 

[Rick]

I replaced my clutch last year on my 99 EC200! The OEM was in since new, and replaced in 07...that should tell you how good the OEM stuff is. The basket looks perfect....mind you this is on a 200. I am not rough on the clutch, never the less it was due. I replaced it with a Barnett kit, no more clutch drag, proper free play, Motul 2 stroke tranny oil, replaced clutch fluid, using a stringe. Tough as nails

 

[(F5)]

Well my 200 GasGas clutch performed faultlessly yesterday, starting fine in gear first kick no drama.

Unfortunately none of this is relevant to this thread, I was out on my GG Trials bike. I still haven't properly ridden the EC200, & next weekend's ride is cancelled too! May have to get into the bush in the next couple.

 

[AZRickD]

Is there a consensus on GoFaster's claim that OEM steels are required (is not required)?

Any friction plates that are recommended?

 

[AZRickD]

Here's a macro pic of the clutch fingers...

 

[AZRickD]

Here's the hub

 

[AZRickD]

Close up of the finger tips...

 

[GMP]

That looks fine. If the plates and springs are OK then start looking at the master/slave for a leak that allows pressure to bleed off, reducing travel and increasing drag. Bleed first of course.

 

[AZRickD]

The steels are fine. The fibers are out of spec (just under the limit) and the springs are out of spec (a bit more than just under the limit).

If I could buy a set of fiber plates and keep my steels, I would.

I need to get the frictions and springs for sure. Then bleed the system. Good to go.

I don't know if GoFasters can get me the parts in time to get me off to the Camp-n-Ride by Friday morning, so I might just go local (MonkeyButtParts.com) and do Moose or equivalent.

Any detractors?

Rick

 

[AZRickD]

I've installed the DP clutch kit (next-day service from MonkeyButtParts). I noticed that one of the steels had a half-inch section on the outer radius that was flat (like a machining error). I decided to use one of my old steels instead.

I bled the line using the syringe technique. Using the syringe to pump clean fluid back up to the reservoir does wonders to flush out hidden bubblets. My old fluid was amber (old). Nice to get new stuff in there.

With the new fresh fluid, bleed, steels, fibers, and springs, the clutch lever gives me more resistance. I watched the plates move in and out a few milimeters (I don't know what standard is).

I'm going to fire it up and see if it actually works. I'm going to defy the GasGas common wisdom and use a 50/50 of ATF and synth Rotella.

Let's hope I didn't screw something up.

 

[WoodsRider]

I'm going to defy the GasGas common wisdom and use a 50/50 of ATF and synth Rotella.

I ran 50/50 Type F ATF and 10W-30 in my old '98 EC250. That bike was still on the original clutch when I sold it in April of '07.

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

I run Amsoil 0W-40 with good results. Really helps in colder weather.

 

[AZRickD]

I fired it up and took it easy up and down my street. So far so good. I can kick start it in gear and it doesn't drag. The clutch lever modulates well. Smooth shifting. And neutral is a bit more positive (Before the swap I sometimes had to search for it more than I like).

Good thing I took it easy. As I was putt-putting down the street I heard a ting-ting noise. My axle wrench had just fallen off the nut as I had been riding around with it all that time. I decided that discretion required me to coast into the garage to see what else I had forgotten to do.

I'm just not very good with tools.

 

[Hapnin]

I'd like some more info on this "syringe technique" for filling and bleeding the clutch res.

Thanks.