EC300 07 - breaks down over 7K RPM

[Eric K]

as in that blittle black box that mounts on the coil?

That's it.

 

[Hamish]

cool, my mate has a 09 300r, so I'll try his, thanks

 

[marjastaja]

I continued here.. didn't want to start a new thread

Does someone know how much does 250cc 2003 Gasser take rpm/ how much rpm is the famous "red limit"??

 

[Silver]

So what was the issue I hate threads that don't get finished it is like reading a book someone tore out the last 3 pages. My bike has similar issues that I can't figure out. Ready to trade it in for some thing else.

 

[socalscott]

WOW, I check in every few months and this issue has a fresh thread.
This issue should be a sticky.
It should start off by assuring all that there is no one fix. Anticipate that it will be a specific combination that is unique to each bike.

Don't be surprised as you try a number of fixes that there are actually incremental improvements along the way. Alas the issue persists.

Good luck

 

[wence]

I too had a perfectly jetted bike and then rebuilt it and now cannot seem to get it to rev out up top.
It pulls and revs fine up to about 3/4 to WOT.
This to me points to the main but I have fiddled with different mains .
The leaner I go the better it gets but I am hesitant to go less than 42 pilot and 178 main with stock engine and PC core muffler.
Bike sounds like it is rich when it breaks down.
Cheers Mark

 

[Silver]

I've been thru this twice with 2 different bikes an 01 and an 07 both ec 250's. Cutting out at higher rpms. I also fouled plugs dry and sooty. Both bikes after many hrs of searching checking buying parts, jetting changes etc. The cdi's were bad. Everyone told me that cdi's either work or they don't well that is a load of crap. Try a cdi I bet your problems will go away. I bought a used one off of this sight. Plugged it in and good to go. Mike

 

[GMP]

CDIs can go bad, but if your bike WAS running fine before you worked on it the chances are almost 100% it was mechanic induced. Go where you have been last. Mark, if you did a top end on a good running bike and now its flat on top my $$ is on the PV now not opening all the way.

 

[wence]

It feels fine up to the certain point between 3/4 and WOT and then splutters and bogs.Does this sound like what would happen?
If so how do you check the PV to ensure full range?
I know it is opening but am not 100% certain how to check for full range.Also I remember reading about shimming or removing shims from the PV.What did this do and where are they located?
Just remembered this while typing..... I have noticed a lot of oil coming out the PV drain hose, more than ever before, since it hasn't been reaching full revs.Could this be from cleaning the powervalve or also be related to the problem?
Silver, thanks for the cdi idea, that will be next after the cost free tries have been exhausted.
Thanks ,
Mark

 

[Silver]

You can take off the right side power valve cover and varify if it is working or not.

 

[wence]

Just rev it and make sure it is fully opening?

 

[noobi]

Yep, pipe off, rh pv cover off, pipe on, start bike, rev, watch
You get good at removing the exhaust when checking pv operation

 

[goose202]

Can't you see the shaft turning from the other powervalve cover?

 

[wence]

Cheers everyone,
My pipe is bent and not as easy to fit and remove but I will fix that also.
Cheers Mark

 

[noobi]

You can see it moving from the other cover, but you can not tell if the pv arm is fully opening the pv or not, becuase the arm and rocker are on the rhs