Hi all I've just bought myself a 2006 totally mint 1 owner from new ec300 I'm planning on using it on the road as the test is lined up for next month but I also want the bike for fast woods,Greenlane ridding being from a motorcross background yz250's crf450,s and my 1986 Honda cr500 I'm used to hangon and ride bikes so the 300 seems abit tame for me in its stock form even with the sun switch activated its not enough power so I'm after any help on cheap mods to make it ride abit more raw as with over 50bhp on tap it has tons of potential to keep up with a quick motorcross bike and do around 90mph top end any help would be appreciated cheers baz..but I need it to stay reliable as its going to be my summer work woods ridding toy haha
Ec300 2006 reliable cheap engine mods
- Thread starter Bazzjohn
- Start date
SGM
New member
...please take this the right way.
Even with the engine wrung out to it's last breath, there still will be a kid quicker than you on a lesser bike.
Riding is 90% rider, unless you're a dragracer.
But - start with jetting the bike, they're crap stock, it's all in the needle really...get that right and it'll wake up...I can't say that my previous 08 CRF450R was any bit quicker than my 05 EC300.
Rgds
/J
Even with the engine wrung out to it's last breath, there still will be a kid quicker than you on a lesser bike.
Riding is 90% rider, unless you're a dragracer.
But - start with jetting the bike, they're crap stock, it's all in the needle really...get that right and it'll wake up...I can't say that my previous 08 CRF450R was any bit quicker than my 05 EC300.
Rgds
/J
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Like any other 2T really. Engine wise the porting is fine. You can shuffle base gaskets to move power around. Have the head modified to reduce squish and correct CR for your fuels/preferences. This won't effect engine reliability and will boost power and efficiency across the board. Then as above, focus on the jetting to bring it to life (+1 with the needle choice). Finally you can then work on the stator (2k2/2k3/flywheel weights) and drive ratios (sprockets) to put it where you want it.
But.. even after all this it will still never be an agressive light switch motocrosser. It was never designed to be one.
But.. even after all this it will still never be an agressive light switch motocrosser. It was never designed to be one.
No offence taken just after abit more snap going to start with removing the reed spacer and if that creates abit more snap I will maybe look at altering the gearing to keep the top end speed and hopefully not loose the gained snap of the powerband..any of you guys know of any trick graphics for the 06 my news the blue one and all I can find is the dc shoes standard graphics or the blackbird ones or is it a custom graphics job?im going to trick the bike up steer it away from the norm look led rear end is on the cards a different headlight pro taper fat bars anodised blue rims gold hubs anodised engine cases etc I usually try get my bikes abit different from the norm and seen as there are no gasser ec,s round my area I'm onto a winner it was a sure buy for me instead of the Everyman and his dog owned Ktm after a few off road blasts well happy with the bike I just need that extra grunt now and a few cosmetic mods and I'm laughing
CDBiker220
New member
Def, remove the reed spacer, look into finding a 2k2 ignition (lighter flywheel, revs faster) get the needle used in a YZ carb. I came off a YZ250 and used these things to get the power to feel a bit more aggressive like the YZ. After that you could look into if you have a 36mm or 38mm carb, look into your headgasket thickness and head squish measurement. Its def. more powerful now, still not quite the hit the YZ had but thats cuz it has so much more low end and midrange
roostafish
Gold Level Site Supporter
Forgive me if I missed it mentioned here, but: The best mod for these engines is to tighten the squish band. There are many threads here discussing it. It was the best thing I ever did to my Gas Gas bikes. They are set up quite loose, and when you lose the excess gap between the piston and head, the throttle response is so much better, and jetting becomes much more consistent.
It probably isn't worth sending your Carburetor to the U.S. for a mod, but if you were to send your head and your carburetor to RB Designs in the U.S., they are the company who did mine, and I was very satisfied. The Carburetor mod gives you a knurled knob to adjust the airscrew, and a remodified throw so that adjusments are much more noticable. It would be worth looking into at the very least.
I think the Gas Gas engine is very good, but these fine tweaks make it great. I'm not sure it gets you a bunch of horsepower, but it sure makes the horsepower it does have very usable and crisp.
It probably isn't worth sending your Carburetor to the U.S. for a mod, but if you were to send your head and your carburetor to RB Designs in the U.S., they are the company who did mine, and I was very satisfied. The Carburetor mod gives you a knurled knob to adjust the airscrew, and a remodified throw so that adjusments are much more noticable. It would be worth looking into at the very least.
I think the Gas Gas engine is very good, but these fine tweaks make it great. I'm not sure it gets you a bunch of horsepower, but it sure makes the horsepower it does have very usable and crisp.
Caravan Monster
New member
Being an '06, the bike is around 7 years old now, and bearing that in mind, I'd start with the basics. The 250 / 300 engine is so strong that it will still run in poor condition.
Take a look under the ignition cover. It should be clean inside. Water and dirt can easily get in there and chew up the crank seal (sealing up the threaded hole in the bottom of the cases and checking the plastic flywheel cover seals well is worthwhile). Whilst you're there, check there's no up / down play in the mains by firmly holding the flywheel and feeling for up / down movement.
Have the barrel off to check condition and ring gaps and whilst it's on the bench, check the powervalve moves freely and isn't coked up with spooge and carbon. Using fully synthetic 2T oil seems to reduce this problem. There's a how to on here that goes through what to do. Whilst everything's in bits, give the carb the once over and check everything is spotless and the float height is correct.
Go through the ignition wiring. The leonelli looms aren't the best and might be starting to crack and break at that age. Check the ht lead to the coil joint is sound.
If all that is ok, then look into tightening the squish band and getting the jetting spot on and it should clean up the power delivery. Loads of info to search through on here. Remember it is an enduro bike and the power delivery is supposed to be linear, not on / off like a motocrosser.
Take a look under the ignition cover. It should be clean inside. Water and dirt can easily get in there and chew up the crank seal (sealing up the threaded hole in the bottom of the cases and checking the plastic flywheel cover seals well is worthwhile). Whilst you're there, check there's no up / down play in the mains by firmly holding the flywheel and feeling for up / down movement.
Have the barrel off to check condition and ring gaps and whilst it's on the bench, check the powervalve moves freely and isn't coked up with spooge and carbon. Using fully synthetic 2T oil seems to reduce this problem. There's a how to on here that goes through what to do. Whilst everything's in bits, give the carb the once over and check everything is spotless and the float height is correct.
Go through the ignition wiring. The leonelli looms aren't the best and might be starting to crack and break at that age. Check the ht lead to the coil joint is sound.
If all that is ok, then look into tightening the squish band and getting the jetting spot on and it should clean up the power delivery. Loads of info to search through on here. Remember it is an enduro bike and the power delivery is supposed to be linear, not on / off like a motocrosser.
Diggs345
Gold Level Site Supporter
I know of at least 3
Thanks guys for all the info but after a think I've removed the reed spacer ordered a jd jet kit and if I want to go faster I will take my 86 cr500 out instead of throwing a shed load of money on the gasser I guess I'm just to used to ridding my Honda monster lol so anything less seems tame but after ridding with my mate today on his cr250 2007 my gasser must be quicker than I thought as he didn't get out of sight on a mixed ride woods fields etc so all in all the gasser is for keeps its a cool road/woods weapon
bowhunter007
New member
Leave off the graphics...It'll have a smoother surface to cut the wind easierDon't forget the extra 10HP you'll pick up once you install the flashy graphics.