Engage whine mode

[roostafish]

Waaaaaah!
I'm sick and at home, so I've got time to think.

I recently had my bike torn down to send out the suspension, carb, and head. All of that is back, and lovely. Whine begins below.

Gas Gas is possibly the most ridiculous dirt bike I've ever wrenched on. Why must you unbolt a radiator to remove the head? Dumb.

Why must Gas Gas use nuts on the back side of the bolts for the subframe? How hard is it to weld them? I was oh so close to breaking out the welder and tacking the nuts on, but I didn't want to ruin the powdercoating, plus, I got lazy.

This is not Gas Gas related, but a good whine anyway. Why do we need a skidplate? I hate skidplates. I dropped the nut for the head bracket and it fell right into the skidplate, which I had to unbolt (with 4mm allens no less, dumb again). Taking off the skid plate revealed lots and lots of old mud. I scraped it off and dumped it into a little bucket and measured it. That mud, plus the bucket weighed almost two pounds. I'm beginning to wonder if I should just remove the dumb thing altogether, it's impossible to clean without removing, and removing it requires taking the exhaust bracket off, so I don't think I'll be doing that every time I ride.

 

[Todd5774]

I ditched my skidplate years ago, no matter what bike i'm riding, dont have any rocks where i ride just sand and mud, gravel and havent damaged either the cases or the lower frame rails..

Get rid of it, then you can go faster coz your not hauling that mud around anymore!!!!

Oh and whineing when your sick is allowed, i'm sitting here nursing a broken wrist giving the credit card a bashing replacing all the parts i broke when i crashed!

 

[Skidad]

Can't help you with all the crazy nuts and bolts setup. I think I pulled out large chunks of hair I could NOT afford to lose when I first started wrenching on my gasser. Very frustrating to me compared to my 97 KTM 250.

Skid plate is a bit easier if you use this one from Meca with plenty of drain holes. Where I ride a skid is mandatory unless you like punching holes in your cases.

 

[gasgasman]

Gas Gas' cases are thicker than any skid plate. I guess it gives people peace of mind.

Bolts on sub frame-can't weld aluminum to steel. Maye they can use captive nuts?

 

[Rick]

Rooost....Rooost....how many Gass'er have you had????

You should be over this by now.......lookie here, get you some foam, make sure it is thick enough to fill the gap between the skid plate and engine cases, I do with when it is going to be real wet and muddy, and in your case, being in the PNW is rains all the time right? This will keep the mud from forming between the cases and skid plate. I really don't think you want to be blazing rock gardens with out a bash plate...

As for cleaning under the skid plate, I use an old flexable handle crapper brush, I insert the brush just under the exhaust pipe and scrub away with the water hose running. (only when I am not using foam)

On my 99 the nuts are welded for the side panels.....I'll be more than happy to swap you out subframes, and all the parts, so you can have welded nuts

 

[roostafish]

Thanks for the advice Rick. The crapper brush is brilliant. Foam, that's a good idea too, and not new to me, but I don't know where to get it.

As far as the subframe, it's where it bolts to the frame that drives me crazy. I have no problem welding some nuts onto those tabs, but the tabs are pretty slim, and it would have to be a quick tack, but still worth it.

AND you're right, after a 11 years worth of Gas Gas motorcycles you'd think I'd be used to it by now. The good thing is I don't have to take it apart very often, so the cussing is spread out over time.

Back when I had my Husky, I used to pull the thing apart to clean it after every ride. That sounds nuts, but the subframe and tank came off in a snap, and It made the bike easier to clean. It always looked spic n span, 'cause it was, and the filter box always got washed out too. Of course, when I got my first Gas Gas (Rick's current EC 200) I stopped doing that, I didn't like measuring cleanup time in hours. Rick's retired though, so he probably greases his swingarm bearings weekly just for fun...... ..... That's the worst job outside of splitting the cases on a Gas Gas, and the only reason splitting the cases is worse, is because you have to remove the swingarm, then do more work!

On the bright side, once the engine is out, it's well thought out and easy to work on, inside and out. The only engine gripe I have is the mishmash of allen and 8mm hex head. Oh, I guess I have one more. The placement of the cylinder nuts inside of the power valve area, with no room for a torque wrench doesn't exactly warm the cockles of me heart. No 45 minute top end jobs on this bike. A greenhorn could do a top end on a Husky 125 in an hour, nothing to remove but the pipe, then drain the coolant and start popping the top.

I'm sounding like a Husky freak here aren't I? I guess I am, but as far as riding goes, I'll take the Gas Gas. If I were forced to be a factory mechanic, I'd rather work for Husky. If I only had to ride, give me Gas Gas. I did choose yet another Gas Gas for this ISDE campaign I'm on, so I'm certainly sold on it's quality, I just hope I don't do anything where I have to remove the subframe in Mexico, because if it comes to that, my Six Days will be over.

 

[roostafish]

That Meca is pure artwork man! Though I'm not sure it would work for me, The Hyde I have is tucked up nicely so I don't "shift, or brake" with it. The protective protrusions on every other skidplate I've tried get in my way. My Ronald McDonald foot must not like it!

 

[Mark Berg - CPD]

refinements

FYI

2010 refinements...subframe bolts right to frame ( no more loose nuts there). 1 piece natural tank with nut inserts (no more stripped screws on shroud). Airbox side panels only require one screw removal from the back (easily accessable) and the new shroud designs are super strong, plus less sticking out to be ripped off.

As far as head goes, not sure yet if that changed on the 2010, but I agree, pain in the *** everytime to remove lower radiator bolts on each side just to remove the head. Plus a tight tight tolerance for the spark plug against the coolant manifold. But there are some definite refinements in 2010.

Skid plate...don't need because the frame will take the abuse and we haven't seen a broken case yet. In fact since distributing have only sold one set of cases and it was for a different reason. However if you saw the two frames from Justins 2009 bikes, you'd realize they would save the actual frame from excessive abuse and possibly help a little better for resale.

 

[roostafish]

That is all excellent news Mark! It makes me happy too, 'cause if I do happen to qualify, Gary from Gran Prix Cycle told me he would consider letting me ride his Nambotin Replica at Six Days. I don't know if that's a real good idea on his part though. From my experience, it will need rotors, maybe wheels and spokes, and a chain and sprockets at bare minumum when I'm done.

I'll take this opportunity to thank him again in this thread though. Because of Gary, this whole deal is made possible for me. I'm riding his personal bike (It's mine now) which has saved me a ton of money, and put me on a current design that will perform as needed. Also thanks to RB-Designs for their incredible transformation of my bike into a fire breathing dragon that's easy to jet correctly. Thank you also to Les at LT-Racing for knowing exactly what I wanted my suspension to do, and for believing me when I told him what I wanted (most suspension tuners I have used assume you're telling them you're faster than you are and you get boingers that bottom over discarded tear offs). I'm looking forward to not building up near as much rubber on the bottom side of my fenders. It does look cool though to see skid marks on the bottom of your fenders, or is that just me that likes that? Mostly thanks to Jeff Dunham, our webmaster for this site, which is free to us, but costs him plenty to maintain, and for his help in connecting me to LTR and RB-Designs, to all his advice, and his tireless patience with me as I talk his arm off. For his offers of assistance in ways I could never have imagined, and for being an all around great guy.

Hijacked, and off topic now. But isn't this my whine mode thread?

 

[noobi]

can i have a whine roost?

i dont like the stock shifter, its very weak and very easily bent, iv bent 3 now. and im not liking the $65 price tag to replace it.
also the footpegs aren't that strong, iv bent them well out of shape a few times, but normally i can just bash them straight again so thats sort of ok i guess.
and the front axle that has worn out so i need a new one is a bit of a pain too, but i cant get one because they have never been in the country so i have to have one made.
and finally the rear shock that wont let me ride over logs fast because it wants to pitch the front down as violently as possible, regardless of how soft i make it

rant over

 

[coolum74]

can i have a whine roost?

i dont like the stock shifter, its very weak and very easily bent, iv bent 3 now. and im not liking the $65 price tag to replace it.also the footpegs aren't that strong, iv bent them well out of shape a few times, but normally i can just bash them straight again so thats sort of ok i guess.
and the front axle that has worn out so i need a new one is a bit of a pain too, but i cant get one because they have never been in the country so i have to have one made.
and finally the rear shock that wont let me ride over logs fast because it wants to pitch the front down as violently as possible, regardless of how soft i make it

rant over

You are being bent over my friend. Try here:

http://www.mainjet.com.au/index.php?cPath=36&osCsid=5af53f38c678dd3f6d519b85b5b3593b

 

[roostafish]

Shock problem we can solve. Too bad I'd have to fly to NZ to help tune it out. I'd start with going the other direction on the compression though, the high speed compression damping. All the other stuff is money. Fastway makes a great replacement for the pegs that not only look trick, they're tough, and have replaceable grip. I've never had issue with the stock pegs, but I'm not thrilled with the fact that the starter hits it, and it doesn't fold all the way up on the right side.. Bummer.

I'm torn on the shifter issue. I think it's good to have a cheezy shifter that can be bent back into shape, rather than have a chunk that will snap. I prefer billet, but, well it's not. I do like the Honda XR cheese shifter though, it's easily bent all over the place, many many times, opposite of billet! Out of place on a Gas Gas.

 

[SpeedyManiac]

can i have a whine roost?

i dont like the stock shifter, its very weak and very easily bent, iv bent 3 now. and im not liking the $65 price tag to replace it.
also the footpegs aren't that strong, iv bent them well out of shape a few times, but normally i can just bash them straight again so thats sort of ok i guess.
and the front axle that has worn out so i need a new one is a bit of a pain too, but i cant get one because they have never been in the country so i have to have one made.
and finally the rear shock that wont let me ride over logs fast because it wants to pitch the front down as violently as possible, regardless of how soft i make it

rant over

Run your shifter higher. I've munched one in 5 years of riding GasGas.

Yes, the stock footpegs suck, but at least they're fairly cheap. Aftermarket replacements are recommended.

Don't know how you're wearing out the front axle? Might want to check the wheel bearings...

Try adjusting the rear shock rebound. If there's no rebound damping, it'll kick you over the bars.

Don't blame the bike for poor maintenance or riding practices. Yes, GasGas needs to improve some things but overall the bikes are still one of the best complete packages out there.

 

[Mark Berg - CPD]

another refinement

The footpeg on the right side is cut away straight from the factory so it has more clearance against the brake lever and can flip up way more than past models. There are many more to the 2010 as well, just can't think of them all right now.

 

[SpeedyManiac]

Here's the list of changes on the 2010 that I've noticed:
-1 piece plastic gas tank with threaded inserts for shroud bolts
-new rad shroud shape - stronger and cooler looking
-new airbox side panels and rear fender with cutoff number plates
-new brake pedal tip
-cut off right side footpeg
-new seat cover (possibly whole seat)
-new bling bling seat attachment
-new frame with captive fasteners
-new carb top

Thats all I can think of right now. The 2010s are definitely a big step forward in fit and finish over previous offerings.

 

[jostby]

can i have a whine roost?

i dont like the stock shifter, its very weak and very easily bent, iv bent 3 now. and im not liking the $65 price tag to replace it.
also the footpegs aren't that strong, iv bent them well out of shape a few times, but normally i can just bash them straight again so thats sort of ok i guess.
and the front axle that has worn out so i need a new one is a bit of a pain too, but i cant get one because they have never been in the country so i have to have one made.
and finally the rear shock that wont let me ride over logs fast because it wants to pitch the front down as violently as possible, regardless of how soft i make it

rant over

Dang dude, you should at least try to go around stuff once in a while

 

[noobi]

Shock problem we can solve. Too bad I'd have to fly to NZ to help tune it out. I'd start with going the other direction on the compression though, the high speed compression damping.

thanks ill try that

Fastway makes a great replacement for the pegs that not only look trick, they're tough, and have replaceable grip.

im afraid ill rip off the footpeg mount with those pegs...

Don't know how you're wearing out the front axle? Might want to check the wheel bearings...

i replaced the bearings and its the shaft thats worn down, the bearings were fine when i took them out, no play at all, and even with brand new bearing there is still some play.

Try adjusting the rear shock rebound. If there's no rebound damping, it'll kick you over the bars.

so make the rebound faster by turning the clicker clockwise?

Don't blame the bike for poor maintenance or riding practices. Yes, GasGas needs to improve some things but overall the bikes are still one of the best complete packages out there.

oh yes i agree, although my maintenece is nothing to be sniffed at, but my riding could probably improve thats a given, considering iv been riding for 3 years

Dang dude, you should at least try to go around stuff once in a while

whatever, its faster to go over/through than around...

 

[SpeedyManiac]

No, add more rebound damping to slow down the rebound. If the back end is kicking up acting like a pogo stick, you want the rear suspension to soak up the hit (softer compression), but if it rebounds too fast then you'll still get kicked over the bars (so add more rebound damping/turn the clicker in).

 

[noobi]

No, add more rebound damping to slow down the rebound. If the back end is kicking up acting like a pogo stick, you want the rear suspension to soak up the hit (softer compression), but if it rebounds too fast then you'll still get kicked over the bars (so add more rebound damping/turn the clicker in).

i thought that to make the rebound slower/softer you turned the clicker outwards, and that restricts the flow of oil in the shock?
this is what was exlplained to me by a suspension tuner, that turning the comp clicker in closes the oil hole up, thus harder, and for rebound it was the opposite, turning the clicker in opens up the oil hole, thus faster rebound???

 

[GMP]

i thought that to make the rebound slower/softer you turned the clicker outwards, and that restricts the flow of oil in the shock?
this is what was exlplained to me by a suspension tuner, that turning the comp clicker in closes the oil hole up, thus harder, and for rebound it was the opposite, turning the clicker in opens up the oil hole, thus faster rebound???

Totally wrong. Any time you turn an adjuster clockwise, you close off an orafice with a needle valve, restricting flow, and INCREASING dampining, regardless if its compression or rebound.