engine noise(clutch)

G

gassergrant

New member
since Ive rebuilt my mains and big ends my engine has started this not so good sounding noise.
I'm happy with the rebuild but did not replace any bearings in the box.
right the sound is like small ends but there new? Ive noticed when pulling in the clutch the noise goes or now just quietens up, could it be the clutch bearings at all. i cant see whats happened here but could a rebuild being done and disturbing the engine bought this to light.
when i ride the bike hard the is no noise its only on idol this happens

what do you guys think

thanks grant
 
yeah totally odd, im not sure about riding it in case i do some long term damage.

i did have the box apart followed the manual to fit it back together.

there power valve could do with adjusting the slack but this is louder than the PV, no chain slap as its stationary
did read that thread the other day thinking about this if i can i will make a vid but not sure how to post it on here
 
fixed. the nut on the crank to hold the balance and drive cog was loose, ops
Ive used thread lock and tightened up nice and tight now
 
Interesting, I just had exactly the same thing happen after a bottom end rebuild. I'm "almost" positive I torqued that nut to spec even saying to myself while doing it that the 40Nm spec seemed kinda low for that big nut...

At the end of the first day riding after rebuild the thing sounded like I was gonna have to do it all over again. You could see where the nut had worked it's way out far enough to be nicking on the case. Still not sure why pulling the clutch minimized the noise though...
 
???My torque sheet shows 70nm for the flywheel & 98nm for the crank pinion.....even the clutch basket is 60nm.... maybe a misprint somewhere?
 
LOL Jake!! I keep the GMP torque sheet on the wall at the shop. I even use those value for the 'orange' bikes, helps them run better but they still won't turn. ;-)
 
Yep,
Must be a misprint. I looked it up again in the shop manual i have and it definitely says 40 Nm. 98Nm sounds more like it. I think I've seen a torque list, maybe a page from one of the manuals???
 
rpduc said:
Interesting, I just had exactly the same thing happen after a bottom end rebuild. I'm "almost" positive I torqued that nut to spec even saying to myself while doing it that the 40Nm spec seemed kinda low for that big nut...

At the end of the first day riding after rebuild the thing sounded like I was gonna have to do it all over again. You could see where the nut had worked it's way out far enough to be nicking on the case. Still not sure why pulling the clutch minimized the noise though...
Click to expand...

took me by surprise and done the same thing, i though the clutch bearings had gone at first
oh well fixed now so learned a lesson with that one
 
The manual also has a wrong torque value for the cylinder base nuts. It calls for 25Nm. I'm sure there are more errors in that thing so user beware. Leaves a lot to be desired as a shop manual anyway, but it's something...
 
I had this happen on my old EC250 a couple of time - in the end I used Loctite as well to stop it loosening off again.
 
How do I check for this?

Ok, this post got my attention because my 300EC is doing the same thing...pretty noisy when I am sitting in neutral with the clutch "out", but if I pull the clutch in it quiets right down.

Its been that way since I bought it used over a year ago. I have not had the motor apart, but the guy I bought it from took a Recluse Clutch out of it before I took it home...

What do you all suppose the chances are that the noise I am hearing is being caused by the same thing?
 
They all make a bit more noise idling in neutral with clutch out... I think cuz additional stuff spinning around in gearbox

In my case at least it was markedly different than the "normal" rattle at idle. I'd describe it as a sharp ticking or clicking. It was obvious to me something was wrong. Of course if you bought the thing used and have nothing to compare I guess "normal" would be rather elusive... The guys I was riding with Sat. kinda poo-pooed my worries about the 'clutch' noise and claimed their bikes made the same noise at idle so....

When I opened mine I could see where the nut had grazed the case and there was a bit of aluminum residue on the nut so I suspect the nut cannot come completely off. The pinion gear is on a spline and it functions with the nut loose so I suppose one could ride around in that condition for a 'while' without knowing it, especially if it's been that way since you got it. The other thing is it's a lefty thread so in theory the nut could "self tighten" enough to hide the condition to some degree. I had to ride mine several miles after I noticed the noise to get back to the car with apparently no ill effect. Obviously not good and I would think it would cause trouble sooner than later if it was loose. If you've been riding it for a year unlikely i'd think...

Impossible to diagnose via the web but if the noise bugs you it's really not much of a deal to check that nut and while you're in there you can ease your mind about the clutch and check the slop in your powervalve too. I've pulled that case numerous times without needing a new gasket but I'd have one handy. Don't need to pull the waterpump housing, just the hose... impeller and shaft come with the case. Just drain antifreeze lay bike on side, support so not on shifter, pull the kicker then case. Bolts are all different lengths so note which bolt you start at and set them aside in order so you don't have to figure out how they go back.
 
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