exhaust valve problem, HELP!

[clerky clerk]

Hi all, I have just carried out a piston and ring change and in the prosess of re-assembly I pulled the exhaust valve actuating rod up ward a little to far. Now it will not return to its original place. (as though there is no spring to pull it back down) If I finish of putting it all together and start the bike should it return to its correct position or has something come apart inside or gone past its cycle and needs to be manually returned.
Also does the water pump have any significance to the operation of the pv

 

[jostby]

I'm sure someone will chime in shortly but I would not start it at this point, it will not "reset" itself. I remember this happening to someone else on the smackover site when it was alive. There are ball bearings that spin inside a type of cup, centrifugal force moves them outward which in turn moves the actuating rod for the PV. Sounds like you pulled it far enough that the bearings dislodged. If I remember right they don't actually fall out of place but you will have to remove the right side engine cover to put them back in their spots. Like I said, There are others here that will know more about this and hopefully they will chime in and correct me if I am wrong. I just wanted to give you a heads-up. Good luck.

 

[Chilli]

Wierdest thing.... I have just done exactly the same bloody thing and am trying to figure out how to correct my cock-up.
I have taken the side cover off. As far as I can make sense of it, the actuator lever (2)should be in the down position (3) when the bike is off or idle. It should move upwards on high revs (please someone correct me if I am wrong).

The base of the actuator lever is connected to a shaft (4) that is in turn connected to a guide pin (5) which runs in a groove (7) between the springs (6) on the gear. The guide pin is tightend with an alan key bolt (5). I beleive when the actuator lever was pulled up, the shaft (4) turned/twisted out of position.
I loosened the alan key bolt (5), pushed the gear (6) in against the motor, pushed the actuator lever (2) down, to what seems its correct idle position (3) then tightened the alan key screw (5) again.

HOWEVER, I am not 101% convinced I have done the right thing though as I haven't started her up yet. A mate of mine just came around, he is quite knowledgable, and he is convinced it is correct.

If you have sorted out your problem, please let me know if I have done the correct thing, or is there something I am missing?
I dont want to start it up hear some grinding and banging sounds !!!!

 

[PEB]

Looks good Chili, not only did you fix your problem but you wrote up a nice tutorial on how to adjust the powervale tension. Adjust at #5 till you slight tension on actuator rod. Also it looks like from the pic you need to put the nut on the actuator cam #3, be sure to not overtighten as it is a known weak point.

 

[Chilli]

Thanks for the vote of confidence PEB

I now have a lot more courage to fire it up. As for the bolt on the actuator cam, how right you are. The guy who had the bike before me obviously overtightend the bolt and I had to saw it off. The "threaded rod" that the nut bolts onto was sheared off at the weld. I have ordered a actuator already and await in eager anticipation.

No stock of base gasket in the country (SA). The agents have ordered, hopefully arrives this week so I can complete my re-asembling task.

While its open, I wanted to check my rings and replace if nessesary. How does one know if the rings are worn. Visually OK, slight blow past on the one side of the piston, but nothing major. What do you measure on the rings to check?
a) Open gap when rings are off the piston?
b) Wall thickness of the rings
or what? and what is the tolerence measurment range?

 

[GMP]

Nice job. I've done this on my old '03 and described it, but never had the time to take the cover off again when I got my new camera, thank you.