FAQ : How to waterproof the ignition.

[jeffd]

Question : How can I get the ignition on '99 to '04 200/250/300 water tight?

Answer : So, how does the water get in? The first thing you should know is that there is a vent hole at the bottom of the case that vents to the outside and also lets moisture into the case. In addition, gasgas currently uses a composite cover that can let water into the case at the mating surface.

The seal at the ignition cover can be improved by lapping the mating surface of the cover. Obtain a small and thick piece of plate glass - this will give you a nearly perfect flat surface. Alternatively, the "table" on a drill press or table saw can be used. Lay a piece of extra fine sandpaper on your "very flat surface" and rub the mating surface of the ignition cover against it lightly (in a circular motion) to ensure that the mating surface is completely "flat".

To get a good seal on the gasket, grease the gasket prior to installation along with the rubber plugs. You can also use two gaskets in this location versus one to get a better seal - this will fill voids and give a better seal where the hump is for the counterbalancer (on older models).

As for the hole in the bottom of the case? Some plug it - not sure if this is advised or not. It is a good idea to remove the ignition cover occasionally and spray it down with CRC 2-26 displace the moisture and to combat corrosion. It is not advisable to use WD-40 as components in it have been shown to degrade the insulation in the windings.

On a related topic - dielectric grease can be used to waterproof connections and to avoid corrosion in these connections.

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Input on this one?

thanks,
jeff

 

[Dave]

For sanding, the top of a table saw works well also.

Instead of WD40, it's petroleum base may affect the insulation on the windings, how about recommending CRC 2-26 or a similar product made for the application. The CRC product is available at Home Depot. Here's a link.
http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=02005-6&S=N

Also, the grommet plugging the spare hole in the cover will shrink quite a bit if hit with carb cleaner. You can guess the results.

I wonder if after plugging the bottom vent hole one should add a vent line to the area?

 

[jeffd]

Thanks Dave - I edited the article above to incorporate your input.

What do you suggest using on the rubber plug to "re-expand' it? Armor All?

For the vent - I suppose one could plug the hole on the bottom and add a vent tube to rubber plug in the case - I'll ask Les what he thinks about this.... Or maybe he will just respond directly here.

jeff

 

[Dave]

What do you suggest using on the rubber plug to "re-expand' it? Armor All?

I ended up using silicone sealant to fill in the gaps on mine.

For the vent - I suppose one could plug the hole on the bottom and add a vent tube to rubber plug in the case - I'll ask Les what he thinks about this.... Or maybe he will just respond directly here.

jeff

Initially I was thinking of drilling and tapping the case for 1/8" pipe and threading in an MPT x barbed tube adapter. Using the spare opening as you suggest is a better idea as it wouldn't be permanent.

 

[iancp5]

I took mine off recently forgetting the gasket was there and broke it! Have resealed with blue hylomar without gasket - not sure if that is advisable but was in a hurry to use the bike. Hoping that as this should be a relatively cool, no pressure area it wont matter too much what is used to seal - providing it doesn't eat the plastic of course.

I think when I put a gasket back on I'll try the grease method - that way it should also release without damaging the gasket. I know I should always replace but generally don't in what seem low stress, non-critical locations.

 

[CACTUSREID]

iIn canada we can get a product sold by GM auto dealers that is called silicone emulsion. I'm in the autobody industry, and we use this stuff to swell and revitalize rubber door weatherseals on cars and trucks. It would most likely work well on grommets and seals. it's heavy on the silicone, so I'm sure it's waterproof. it comes in a small 3 oz plastic bottle with a dauber to spread it around.

 

[gasgasman]

A GM product on my bike?................Nooooooooooo.

 

[GMP]

First thing I do is plug the vent with a short M6 bolt/washer with loctite. I've heard all the arguments for and against, but mud filled ignitions on other bikes with vents is enough to convince me.

Remove the cover, clean and lap it flat as described. You know its flat when the entire sealing surface is cut with the sand paper. I use #240 on a glass plate. Clean when done.

Remove the old gasket, pop the plug and wire grommet out of the case, and clean everything up. Get TWO new gaskets. Bond them together with a thin coating of RTV sealant. Apply sealant to the plug and grommet grooves, and to the case side of the gasket pair. Seat the grommet, plug, and gasket pair to the case, wipe off excess silicone. Apply a thin coat of grease to the ignition cover sealing surface, and bolt up SNUG, not tight, with antiseize on the bolt threads.

Now, with the flat cover surface and added compliance of two gaskets, sealing should be close to perfect. The grease allows you to remove and replace the cover many times without gasket damage, and the RTV holds everything to the case, so its quick and easy. Remove and inspect the ignition after every wet ride/wash, you may still see some moisture from condensation, but nothing significant. Allow to air dry and replace the cover with a fresh coat of grease. Doing this I never have a problem, and my ignition components look like new with no corrosion.

 

[GMP]

Silicone lubricants will have a swelling affect on rubber compounds that contain silicone, but not usually on Neoprene or Buna N type compounds.

 

[(F5)]

I have just tried sealing the cover & running a vent from the rubber grommet at the top front of the cover cut & sealed to a tube up to the tank area to vent condensation. Too early to say, but was a heap of corrosion when I took it off before so had to try something.

 

[GMP]

3 bolts, 4 on the new bikes, and its off. Then you KNOW its dry. I leave the cover off and replace it when prepping the bike for the next ride.

 

[KTMAndy]

I'm new to the gas gas, and starting to learn, they have several teething issues, just found my wouldn't start after it was left for an hour in the rain... Half a tin of WD40 and it spluttered all the way home... (will this bike actually be able to compete at an enduro?????)

Trying to get my head around what advice you've been giving about water proofing it, can't find this hole that needs bunging up?

Could one of you pop some pictures up?

Cheers

Andy

 

[stainlesscycle]

i do absolutely nothing to waterproof mine. done well over 100 harescrambles on the last 2 gasgas. i would bet 50% were supermudfests. i've never had an issue with ignition getting wet. check your wiring for breaks i would assume.

the hole they are speaking of is small and in the case under flywheel.

 

[KTMAndy]

Right, just managed to get my first Propper ride on the gas gas.

It's fun, completely different to anything else I've ridden, going to be hell for me getting used to the power band riding again, but it revs up quick is super light weight, flicks about everywhere.

Looking forward to sticking it in some mud!