Fork Seals

Brian

New member
I have blown fork seal from last weekends race. :( Hope to have the video posted of that later this week.

So I have never done fork seals before. What do I need?

1. Seals
2. Oil
3. Special Tools?

Where can I buy seals? Are they the same as the Husky 45mm's? Want to get all this quickly incase I ride again Sat. or Sun.

How hard is this to do? Anyone have a link to a good guide?
 
I've done seals on a lot of forks. The Zokes tend to have a pretty snug fit of the seals in the tubes, more so than WPs for example. For this reason I have and would recommend a 45mm seal/bushing driver. I got one off ebay a few years back for around $30. As for seals, I have always used the Marzocchi OEM kit on both Husky and GG Zokes. Not impressed with the Moose Chineese junk I've seen. If you've never done this service try and have someone who has show you. Since all forks are basically the same once the cartridges are out you can refer to say a WP procedure. I've never seen a good Zoke specific procedure. Just note the order of all the parts removed. Key points are the tubes must be warmed (uncomfortable to touch) with a heat gun or torch over the bushing/seal area prior to slap hammering the fork apart, and again before driving the bushings and seals back in. Very important is covering the inner tube with a greased plastic bag or taping/greasing the end of the tube past the bushing land to prevent the seal from being damaged.
 
Hollister Hills. Did the HHORA hare scramble. Have not seen the results but I know I did really crappy. Had such bad armpump I had to stop twice, crashed once because I completely lost control of the bars. Never really felt like I got up to full speed. Never even got tired because I wasn't going fast enough. But it was fun, a good first race.

I ordered last night;
OEM seals from North Tahoe Motorsports (Ebay)
From RMATV:
Motion Pro Fork Seal Bullet 45mm
Motion Pro Fork Seal Driver 45 mm
Tusk Fork Oil Level Tool
Bel-Ray Fork Oil 7W 1 Liter

Watched two videos on youtube last night from RMATV they made replacing the seals look not so bad.
 
1 liter may not be enough fork oil....i don't know spec on those forks, but it may be very well above .5 liter per side.

i don't own any of those tools, there are homebrew solutions to all of them:
seal bullet: i use greased ziplock bag
seal driver: i use old seal
oil level tool: long piece of small diameter hose taped to a coathanger, and marked at desired oil level.
 
I have blown fork seal from last weekends race. :( Hope to have the video posted of that later this week.

So I have never done fork seals before. What do I need?

1. Seals
2. Oil
3. Special Tools?

Where can I buy seals? Are they the same as the Husky 45mm's? Want to get all this quickly incase I ride again Sat. or Sun.

How hard is this to do? Anyone have a link to a good guide?

Check out thumpertalk, there should be plenty links.
I'd replace the bushings as well...depending on how many hours are on the bike.
As for tool, a seal driver would be nice, but you can use a piece of pvc pipe to drive it home.
Get a piece of pvc that is s snug fit to slide down into the tube
(not the slider) you want the pvc pipe to rest on the outer edge of the seal..as not to damage the seal lip.
The pipe needs to be long enough to extend over the slider when compressed.
Use a soft mallet hammer and tap the seal into place.
 
1L is not enough. You will need almost 1.5L.

The PVC works great on WPs that just about fall together when the tube is heated, but the bushings and seals in Zokes fit tighter and you have to be careful the edge is releived on the inside as not to damage the seal lip like stainless mentioned. The bushing needs a square edge to drive it in completely so I made a short double sided PVC tool thats split, hose clamped to the fork tube, and you use the fork tube to press or tap everything in. I've done it but its a PIA to get everything right with the right size PVC. For me the real tool is worth it as I do forks on at least four bikes. Good purchase.

The bushings should be fine as long as the dull green teflon coating is intact over the bronze on the bearing side(s). If you can see shiny base metal they are toast. Be carefull R&R them. Wouldn't hurt to drop the damper rod out of the cartridge, check the piston ring, and clean things up.

Bullet tool is nice but you also have to protect the seal from the sharp edges of the bushing land as you slide it over. Tape this, and grease the new seals path good.
 
Added another liter of Oil to my order. My time is limited so I figure if have the "right tools" it will go quicker plus I don't have to dig around/make something. Much easier to have it delivered to my door. My thoughts on the oil tool is I'll make less of a mess with that.

I'll make sure to inspect the bushings.
 
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