Forward Bar Position
- Thread starter farmerj
- Start date
wasp4banger
New member
I ride with mine in the forward position, as I'm quite tall 6'3" it gives me a bit more room on the bike.
If they shouldn't be used why have them there?
If they shouldn't be used why have them there?
swazi_matt
Active member
I am also interested to know what effect it has on handling etc. I have them in the forward mounts as it feels more comfortable for me
I mounted the bars way forward (1.5" forward of stock forward position) on my '06 GasGas EC300. It was by far the best improvement to keep me in the attack position and balanced when standing up. I ride technical woods terrain almost exclusively standing up since my back does not tolerate sit down riding. The bar forward position allows me to put more weight on the bars, taking weight off my back.
I have had no steering or stability issues with my GasGas with this change in over 2 years of riding.
I did this by making some aluminum extension mounts. I made extensions that bolted in the stock bar mount holes in the triple clamps. The extensions had a forward hole in which I installed the bar mounts. The extensions were made of 7076-T6 aluminum bar stock 0.5 inch thick by 1.2 inch width. They are very stout.
See this post for a picture... http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=57616&highlight=+bar++forward#post57616
I have had no steering or stability issues with my GasGas with this change in over 2 years of riding.
I did this by making some aluminum extension mounts. I made extensions that bolted in the stock bar mount holes in the triple clamps. The extensions had a forward hole in which I installed the bar mounts. The extensions were made of 7076-T6 aluminum bar stock 0.5 inch thick by 1.2 inch width. They are very stout.
See this post for a picture... http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=57616&highlight=+bar++forward#post57616
farmerj
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Now we're talkin' Eric! That's kind of what I was thinking, but have heard a couple of comments that made me hesitate to put effort into something like that (like the last post here: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11574&highlight=bars&page=2 .
Here's another option I've wondered about, don't know if it would work in this application:
http://www.mxsouth.com/enduroengineering/enduro-engineering-bar-mounts-handlebar-riser-mounts.htm
Or: http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?subcat_id=303
(Wish I knew how to upload the pictures.)
Regarding bar height, one guy I talked to said he would be hesitant to put bar risers on the GG perches, because of concerns about leverage on the bolt and the possibility of it breaking. Does anyone else have that concern? There sure are a lot of companies that sell bar riser extensions!
So - good work there, Eric! Thanks for sharing the picture.
Jeff
firffighter
New member
Hey Jeff,
What about a different bar bend. Maybe some really tall bars with very little sweep.
BTW, this snow today kinda messes up with any for a while
What about a different bar bend. Maybe some really tall bars with very little sweep.
BTW, this snow today kinda messes up with any for a while
gg3
Silver Level Site Supporter
I tried some high mounts on my 2010.I went too high & ended up standing too upright rather than over the bars.This led to a nasty fall back on the throttle & bike going vertical like an Apollo rocket launch incident.It came down on the end of the bars( I run bark busters) & sheared the bar clamp bolt off.I have since relaced the bolts with higher grade s/steel bolts & a higher bar bend instead.
Everyone has their taste but just to give you ideas what some of the finnish world champions such as kari tiainen and juha salminen do:
They always have their bars as back as it goes and with no extra rise. David Knight does the same and he's a big guy! And they all always ride standing.
As i talked with Tiainen: this is to make you able to stay as back on the bike as possible when necessary and also to make you able to go as far forward when turning (high bar does not allow that)
They also never, ever, ever use clutch. When Kari Tiainen trains young finnish enduroriders, he sometimes makes them to tape the lever to hand guard
They always have their bars as back as it goes and with no extra rise. David Knight does the same and he's a big guy! And they all always ride standing.
As i talked with Tiainen: this is to make you able to stay as back on the bike as possible when necessary and also to make you able to go as far forward when turning (high bar does not allow that)
They also never, ever, ever use clutch. When Kari Tiainen trains young finnish enduroriders, he sometimes makes them to tape the lever to hand guard
wasp4banger
New member
Regarding bar height, one guy I talked to said he would be hesitant to put bar risers on the GG perches, because of concerns about leverage on the bolt and the possibility of it breaking. Does anyone else have that concern? There sure are a lot of companies that sell bar riser extensions!
Jeff[/QUOTE]
I've got my mounts raised up with some 1.5 inch spacers, mounted them with high tensile bolts, cutting the heads of the bolts into a "T" to fit into the mounts.
I just don't see that one size fits all can be right. The set-up for someone 6'3" must surely be different for someone 5'3"?
Jeff[/QUOTE]
I've got my mounts raised up with some 1.5 inch spacers, mounted them with high tensile bolts, cutting the heads of the bolts into a "T" to fit into the mounts.
I just don't see that one size fits all can be right. The set-up for someone 6'3" must surely be different for someone 5'3"?
Interesting comments on the Finnish Enduro riders, especially on the clutch usage.
As noted, bars are a rider preference item. People have varying arm, leg and torso lengths. Try bar risers and try forward bar mounts to see which feels best.
Risers and/or extensions will increase leverage, which increases stress and the odds of something breaking in a crash. Even professionally machined aftermarket risers are known to break in a crash. Consider your options if your risers/mounts break while riding. Would you be able to put it back in a stock position and continue riding? I know I can. Fortunately, I haven't had to do that.
As noted, bars are a rider preference item. People have varying arm, leg and torso lengths. Try bar risers and try forward bar mounts to see which feels best.
Risers and/or extensions will increase leverage, which increases stress and the odds of something breaking in a crash. Even professionally machined aftermarket risers are known to break in a crash. Consider your options if your risers/mounts break while riding. Would you be able to put it back in a stock position and continue riding? I know I can. Fortunately, I haven't had to do that.
Rick
New member
Give these guys a call.....http://emigracing.com/
skid jackson
New member
I want to hear more about this!! ...
its opposite of what I have been told for years ....
swazi_matt
Active member
+1 I can only imagine that it encourages you to tackle obstacles at higher speed and more commitment
It's all about traction & control. Juha Salminen is the best on this, on special stages he rarely touches the clutch after start.
What theses guys think is that they get much better feeling of rear tire traction by using throttle only. Clutch usage easily puts power surges to rear tire. Using just throttle forces you to a smooth riding style
By the way - they have the same thinking of bar position: regardless of the shape and size of the rider they always have the bars very low and back. J.Salminen also has his bars narrowed
What theses guys think is that they get much better feeling of rear tire traction by using throttle only. Clutch usage easily puts power surges to rear tire. Using just throttle forces you to a smooth riding style
By the way - they have the same thinking of bar position: regardless of the shape and size of the rider they always have the bars very low and back. J.Salminen also has his bars narrowed
firffighter
New member
Interesting.
I have heard many enduro experts say their bars are low and back as well. I wonder if the thinking is that it makes you ride with your elbow's out. I am always harping on my boys to ride with their elbow's out to help with turning and absorb impacts while maintaining control.
Good stuff
I have heard many enduro experts say their bars are low and back as well. I wonder if the thinking is that it makes you ride with your elbow's out. I am always harping on my boys to ride with their elbow's out to help with turning and absorb impacts while maintaining control.
Good stuff
gassi
New member
I heard same things about the bar position and the clutch using. A couple of example what benefit you can have, when you avoid for using the clutch:
If you are braking to the flat corner with the clutch pulled and in the corner you release the clutch and open the throttle same time, there is a big possibility that your bikes rear tire will begin to slide too much and that's where you lose time (and speed) I think this is the same thing what FinGas mean.
Using less clutch also give's you a less arm pump!
But maybe it's better for as "not so pro rider's" to set up our bike's and riding the style what feels best for as!?!
And for the Finnish guys: Maybe it's better not to tell all the secrets, why some of the world's best endurorider's come from Finland!!!
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I can understand what FinGas is saying re the clutch. I've had more sucess running a section in the right gear under controlled throttle, than I have running a gear higher, more rpms and trying to modulate with the clutch. Its probably to an extent more to do with my lack of complete clutch vs throttle control, but then again an engine under load is much less responsive (less prone to breaking traction) than being on the biting point of clutch engagement. The rougher the terrain the more your arms pump, the harder it is to maintain that fine clutch control.
In saying all of this though, I still rely on the clutch to control things such as when the rear tyre breaks loose I clutch and release slowly to regain traction, or at the other end of the spectrum when climbing a hill and the bike stands up, its easier to cull some drive through the clutch than it is to chop the throttle.
Its a bit like the stand up vs sit down. Both have their places and its about learning when to do both. I guess by practicing riding without the clutch you're learning what you and the bike can handle without it.
In saying all of this though, I still rely on the clutch to control things such as when the rear tyre breaks loose I clutch and release slowly to regain traction, or at the other end of the spectrum when climbing a hill and the bike stands up, its easier to cull some drive through the clutch than it is to chop the throttle.
Its a bit like the stand up vs sit down. Both have their places and its about learning when to do both. I guess by practicing riding without the clutch you're learning what you and the bike can handle without it.
swazi_matt
Active member
when talking about the bars being in line with the fork plane are you talking about the first part of the bars (rise portion) or the actual grip portion (which is slightly behind due to the angle of sweep)?
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