Front brake dragging or bearings or both?

Really? I loved the AJP on my 05. Couldn't imagine swapping it out.

This Magura on my 12 is a little stiffer.
 
Happy to report front end issues are over. Took the caliper/MC apart and cleaned everything. Replaced fluid and bleed it. Spins free and the dragging has gone away. I also replaced the chain with a 114 link for the 50t sprocket. I estimate that the rear axle moved back about 15mm. Which is a lot. Man, that was what the bike needed. Finally the front end was planted. The front brake worked. I was able to lower my pegs. Much better position. I could stand up! Yeh!
 
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Also check for a bent rotor in the front as well, if the piston pushes back in cleanly/easily you shouldn't need a rebuild Take the caliper off and then spin the wheel to isolate the brakes from the bearings

& just my opinion-a 6.2 on the back is waaaay to big a spring, I saw you and you aren't that big i.e. I'm 195# and run a 5.4....

About the spring, I was finally able to set the sag today at 106mm. Unfortunately, I only had 10mm of static. So I think I actually need a 6.4!
 
I have bought rebuild kits on Ebay. Here in the US. I like to buy a lot of OEM parts from ServiceHonda.com. They stock most OEM (Japan Bikes) parts. The front and rear caliper are the same as what is on a YZ250/450 bike, just can't remember what years.

As for brake pins I would recommend finding the Stainless steel aftermarket ones as they don't rust or wear as fast. If I recall Zeta Racing makes them and so does Moose Racing. Plus the aftermarket ones eliminate that stupid little cap/cover and are a bolt head instead of the allen head type pin.

Sorry to dig up an OLD thread: But is a caliper rebuild kit from a YZ250 / 450 going to work on my 2006 EC 250 ????? (Front end im looking for - 2 piston Nissin caliper on right now).

Front brake was 'ok' - thats all. I flushed through new fluid and bled it - then noticed pads were a little low.

So ive just fitted new pads, cleaned up the pistons and caliper pins before applying some copper-slip and pushing everything backtogether again. And now the brake is binding quite badly.

Im guessing new piston seals would be my first point of call and at first glance theres not much available in the UK. So any other makes these calipers are fitted to, along with the year would widen my options !!!!

Or does anyone know the exact piston size - maybe this place in the UK can supply me with the seals: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-Tokico-Nissin-25-5mm-brake-caliper-piston-seals-/161071165403?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item258096efdb
 
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Ok, been back out into the garage - took off the cap from the master-cyclinder to check fluid wasnt stupidy high (As i bled brake using new fluid; before i realised the pads were low).

And it was a touch high, so i dropped a little out, so its at the top of the sight-glass with bike sitting level.



Then took off caliper again, pumped brakes a few times till pads almost touched, then pushed pistons back in again (Pretty easily and with no fuss) and then re-attatched the caliper to fork leg. I checked the wheel spun fine without the caliper fitted and indeed it did ;)

Pumped brakes a few times, to get pads out,and brakes still binding :( If i spin the wheel hard as i can by hand - i can barely get one revolution before it stops.

So: No leaks, new fluid, new pads, brakes working ok, but binding slightly ?

Im no brake expert at-all, but i can only think seals were ok where they were with old pads fitted, but having disturbed them in fitting fresh pads the piston / pistons are now sticking slightly.

Plausable ?
 
If the pistons have been exposed for some time due to having very little pad they could be a bit rough. Did you pop them right up and clean them well really well?
 
If the pistons have been exposed for some time due to having very little pad they could be a bit rough. Did you pop them right up and clean them well really well?

Pads were really low, with just a couple of mm left - so the pistons were well out.......

I got a few q-tips / cotton-buds and dipped in some WD40 and wiped and cleaned right around the sides of the piston, and cleaned up the face of the caliper where the piston enters / exits the caliper so it didnt drag any in crap that way either.

Bearing in mind it seemed ok before - id say i cleaned it up pretty good. Suppose i spent a good 20 minutes just cleaning.

Maybe like you say - i should get up early before work and remove the pads. Pop the pistons right out and double check all is smooth and well...........
 
It can't hurt. I'd probably give them a light touch up with some steel wool or wet and dry. Nothing abrasive enough that it will damage the actual piston, but that will remove any build up on it.
 
Well; I got up at 5am before work to sort this once and for all !

Removed caliper again, took pads out and fully exposed the pistons.

Cleaned them up good and proper and pushed them back in again......

Squeezed the lever a few times and only one piston came back out again. Had a good look and i could see bits of seal trying to come back out with the piston.... :(

So, decided to remove both front and rear caliper while im doing the front, and have sent both off them off for refurbishment. (If you click the link uptop in orange - theres a huge article about what exactly they do) For this price its not worth me messing around with them myself - its easier and less painfull to do a couple of hours overtime at work ! Plus a 2 day turnaround means i'll be back riding next weekend. Just another problem that hopefully wont ever return !

http://www.powerhouseautomotive.co.uk/content/brake-caliper-service-sheffield-yorkshire.html
 
Very unhappy to report my front brake problems are back and even worse now. The lever will barely move. The pistons in the caliper move freely. It has to be the MC, but we took it apart last weekend and it looked fine. No torn seals or anything. So I don't know. I'm rebuilding the MC, if that doesn't work, I will send it off somewhere.
 
There may be a restriction in the hose.
It may have delaminated internally, possibly impact damagefrom trail debris.
 
There may be a restriction in the hose.
It may have delaminated internally, possibly impact damagefrom trail debris.

We thought about that too, but we can back bleed fluid through the hose with no problem, it would squirt out in a nice little stream. So it appears the hose is fine.

We took the front brake MC off Paul's KTM and put it on my 300. Hoping to see if the MC was surely the problem. Hooked it all up and could not get the lever to firm up. We back bled it, front bled it, etc for 1.5 hrs before giving up.

I may send the whole assembly to my main GasGas guy in Houston. He is pretty good at fixing stuff I hear......;)
 
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