Front Brake Rotor Options

N

n_green

New member
After a new front rotor for my '11 EC300 as the stock one (round with more slotted vents then braking surface area) is crap and offers little feel and less stopping power.

What brands/types of front rotors are people running and would you recommend them?

Where can I buy them?

Quick search on Ebay and the usual online stores hasn't turned much up. Found these (http://www.racediscs.com) quick search shows a few people have tried them a while back, if you have what did you think? They are cheap, even to deliver to Australia.

cheers
 
i am very happy with the racediscs.com front rotor. i've had it pretty much all year. new rotor + pads, and it works better than the stock one for me - although i never had a brand new oem one.. when my rear solid rotor wears out, i'm definitely getting a racediscs one.
 
All the power you need is there stock, they just feel different to brembo, they don't have the feathery bite of a brembo but work just as good once you get past that difference, ebc sintered pads give extra pull over the ( very good) stock pads but moan and wear the disc quicker, wd40 and wet and dry light rub on the disc also helps when changing pads.

Cheers
 
Simmo737 said:
All the power you need is there stock, they just feel different to brembo, they don't have the feathery bite of a brembo but work just as good once you get past that difference, ebc sintered pads give extra pull over the ( very good) stock pads but moan and wear the disc quicker, wd40 and wet and dry light rub on the disc also helps when changing pads.

Cheers
Click to expand...
They are definately stronger then the Brembos on my '04 KTM300.
I do like the power of them what I don't like is the fact they lack progression in that there is no in between firm braking and full lock up. Not that I can do stoppies anyway but I can't on this bike at the moment as the front goes from being firm and biting moderately to locking without warning. It has to be the stock rotor. There is stuff all surface area there for the pads to bite.

In any case I'll try a different rotor and hope I'm right. If not you are right in that they are really good. I just don't think they're great. From he sounds of it though most of you are happy with yours so it may just be mine. Or maybe I'm way to fussy :rolleyes:
 
The stock rotors have been fine to me too. I bought a small rotor hone, like a beaded cylinder hone that you chuck up in a drill. When I change pads I go over the rotors with this and it seems to work great. I also use the EBC organic pads (red).
 
Check the 'for sale' section. Someone just posted some Galfer wave rotors (stock on 2011 Six Days, all 2012s). Good strength, no undue rusting, lots of stopping power, and they tend not to howl as much as the rotors you're running now.
 
I have two front wheels, one has a stock rotor and one has a galfer wave rotor... the galfer works way better, the increase in feel and control is very noticable.
 
I purchased a Moose for my 05. Works better than stock - good progression, and much better in mud than the stock with all the slots.

Galpher on my '11 Race is really good. Equal to my KTM.
 
First of all, you must remove the brake swith and put some honda bolt on the place. The improvement in the brake feel is hudge.

The OEM rotor is fine to me but if you want change i thing (you must check) that the DR400 Front rotor is the same.
 
Leo said:
First of all, you must remove the brake swith and put some honda bolt on the place. The improvement in the brake feel is hudge.

The OEM rotor is fine to me but if you want change i thing (you must check) that the DR400 Front rotor is the same.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the banjo bolt into the master cylinder? Why does this make an improvement? Better flow, more/larger bleed holes etc. curious as if it's just more/bigger holes I could just modify the current banjo bolt.

I ordered a front wave rotor from racediscs so I'll see what if any improvement that makes first of all
 
Its been well documented that the switch itself makes the system much more squishy. Pulling the switch and replacing with a banjo bolt will give much better feel and braking power. That said, I've never bothered on the gasser due to rwc etc. I'm already running no indicators so at minimum I should have a brake light. On the yamaha I'm pulling the switches as the wires have been sheered off both anyway.
 
Its just a banjo bolt for a nissin master cylinder. My understanding is that its the switch block itself that sometimes causes poor feel. No idea how or why, but I've read it several times over the years. I think the lighting cable is activated by some kind of pressure switch, so by removing the switch and replacing with a solid bolt you gain more feel.
 
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