Olliesherman
New member
has anyone found any good ways to upgrade the front brake on a 2010 ec 300 took it out this evening and the front brake just doesnt hold up
front brake upgrade
- Thread starter Olliesherman
- Start date
swazi_matt
Active member
Other than bleeding and replacing pads you can replace the light switch banjo bolt with a standard banjo bolt
This made a huge difference on my '13.
Also, someone posted earlier that a cr250 brake line fits. You could buy a braided aftermarket line. That would probably firm up the feel as well.
Olliesherman
New member
that was me that said that and ill try the bolt but when i got back the front brake was almost on fire and i dont think i did too many heavy stops also disc had a slight blue tinge
Olliesherman
New member
ive just ordered some new pads does anyone know the size of the banjo bolt ?
Olliesherman
New member
and ill have a look later to see if it is dragging or not
swazi_matt
Active member
I think it is the same as an rmz450 the thread pitch is not common (at least round here that is) I have about 3 "guaranteed to fit" bolts with the wrong thread pitch sitting in my spares drawer
Jakobi
Super Moderator
As everyone has said.
Check the calliper - lubricate carriers, make sure pistons move freely.
Check the disc - replace if required, ensure cleaned with solvent.'
Brake lines - go braided, well bled (reverse/on a bench).
Brake switch - get rid of it and go a banjo, should be able to get a crossover easily through other brands using Nissin masters. Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, etc.
Check the calliper - lubricate carriers, make sure pistons move freely.
Check the disc - replace if required, ensure cleaned with solvent.'
Brake lines - go braided, well bled (reverse/on a bench).
Brake switch - get rid of it and go a banjo, should be able to get a crossover easily through other brands using Nissin masters. Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, etc.
RockefellerGG
New member
^x2
I'll add rebuilding master and caliper.
Removing the brake light banjo helped me bleed the air out.
Rebuilding the caliper and master gave me back the power...
I'll add rebuilding master and caliper.
Removing the brake light banjo helped me bleed the air out.
Rebuilding the caliper and master gave me back the power...
Olliesherman
New member
thanks guys got the timing belt to do on my van today then these things tomorrow
barossi73
Gold Level Site Supporter
Pistons can be carefully buffed,once removed,if theres any surface pitting,replace.use a hi temp/or rubber grease to lightly grease piston/seal on reassembly.caliper pistons are a very tight tolerance and if you dont have them exactly square on reassembly they can pick up the seal lip or just be stubborn.freshly reassembled on the bench the piston should slowly slide in smoothly with moderate finger pressure(there will/should be some drag)
Binding brake can only be a ceased piston,or sticking slide/s.
Slide pins can be lightly buffed,regreased.
On the bench the 2 caliper halves should slide easily/smoothly in/out on the slide pins.
Excessive lever travel is either air in circuit,master seal bypassing,or a warped disc(spreads the pads apart further between each braking action)
Warped disc oftens shows as a surging feel through the lever
Binding brake can only be a ceased piston,or sticking slide/s.
Slide pins can be lightly buffed,regreased.
On the bench the 2 caliper halves should slide easily/smoothly in/out on the slide pins.
Excessive lever travel is either air in circuit,master seal bypassing,or a warped disc(spreads the pads apart further between each braking action)
Warped disc oftens shows as a surging feel through the lever
RBrider
Gold Level Site Supporter
I installed my light switch on the rear brake and used the left over banjo bolt on the front. Worked out well for me on a '01 XC 200.
While your working on the front brake, make sure the bieed hole in the bottom of the master cyl is perfectly clear of debris. If not, it'll cause a little brake drag, overheating the pads & fluid.
RB
