Front Wheel Bearings

[erniebearskin]

Im only getting 1/2-3/4 season out of wheel bearings? seems short, last time I paid someone to change them, is this something that can be done at home without any special tooling? Any tips? Can I obtain bearings from a local bearing shop or do I need to order through GasGas, thanks homies!

 

[Jakobi]

Easily an at home job. No special tools required except for a large socket, a long punch/drift and a hammer. Source some quality replacement bearings from a store. I can look up the size for you if you like. I always have a spare set on hand as you never seem to know when they'll fail. In saying that in 7500kms I have had to change the front once, and rear once in mine. Make sure you change the seals at the same time, and if the alloy spacer is flagged out get a hardened one too. I pull the seals and check for cleanliness almost every time the wheel comes off the bike as well.

I'll go through the method later on. Just getting ready for work now.

Cheers.

 

[iamyvr]

bearings

Hi Ernie

front wheel bearings are very easy to change. I just did a set the other day.

You can either get the bearings at a local bearing shop or online. The link here has them for $1.59 each. The seal should be a 25-42-7 seal. Any bearing shop should be able to match them.


http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6004-2RS-1?gclid=CPy_54LiyrUCFYWo4AodVi8AvA


Or you can get the AllBallsRacing kit for $16.40 It will have 2 bushings and 2 seals..

http://www.allballsracing.com/28-1116.html


As far as changing the bearings, GENTLY pry the seals out with a flat head screwdriver. Then insert a punch through the hub. with a little side pressure you should be able to displace the center spacer a bit. then work the punch around the entire bearing tapping gently..gently.. the bearing should work its way out slowly. When the bearing comes out the inner spacer will fall right out. then flip the wheel over and gently tap the other bearing out.

Installation is pretty much the reverse. If you have access to a Hydraulic press, it is very easy to install the bearings, if not, use a socket that is about the same size as the bearing and (again gently) tap the bearing in until it seats. Flip over, insert the center spacer, and repeat. Now press in the dust seals, and you are done.


If you have a propane torch, you can heat the hub. The aluminum hub will heat faster than the bearings making it easier to insert and install the bearings.

I like to put my bearings in the freezer over night before I install them then heat the hub to minimize the binding.


If you have any questions, email or PM me and I will give you a call.

Pat

 

[erniebearskin]

Next question, I have a slight amount of play in the front hub due to bearings starting to die, whats everyones thoughts on me squeezing out one more ride tommorow am

 

[StuJohnson]

Hi Ernie

front wheel bearings are very easy to change. I just did a set the other day.

You can either get the bearings at a local bearing shop or online. The link here has them for $1.59 each. The seal should be a 25-42-7 seal. Any bearing shop should be able to match them.


http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6004-2RS-1?gclid=CPy_54LiyrUCFYWo4AodVi8AvA


Or you can get the AllBallsRacing kit for $16.40 It will have 2 bushings and 2 seals..

http://www.allballsracing.com/28-1116.html


As far as changing the bearings, GENTLY pry the seals out with a flat head screwdriver. Then insert a punch through the hub. with a little side pressure you should be able to displace the center spacer a bit. then work the punch around the entire bearing tapping gently..gently.. the bearing should work its way out slowly. When the bearing comes out the inner spacer will fall right out. then flip the wheel over and gently tap the other bearing out.

Installation is pretty much the reverse. If you have access to a Hydraulic press, it is very easy to install the bearings, if not, use a socket that is about the same size as the bearing and (again gently) tap the bearing in until it seats. Flip over, insert the center spacer, and repeat. Now press in the dust seals, and you are done.


If you have a propane torch, you can heat the hub. The aluminum hub will heat faster than the bearings making it easier to insert and install the bearings.

I like to put my bearings in the freezer over night before I install them then heat the hub to minimize the binding.


If you have any questions, email or PM me and I will give you a call.

Pat

Do you have the sizes for the rear bearings as well?
Thanks

 

[Jakobi]

Don't buy cheap bearings. They won't last as well. Get a good sealed set of japanese ones. My preference is Nachi

The method above is right on. Things to note. Punching them out you will be hitting on the inner race. This roots the bearing. Its good for the bin when you're done, even if they were still good. Don't be tempted to reuse. Check for circlips on the hubs retaining the bearings in. I think the rear might have one maybe. Can't remember - maybe its the yamaha? Different bikes have slightly different setups, but if its got a circlip no amount of punching will get it out without something breaking.

For installation make sure you only work on the outer race to seat the bearing. Thats why a large socket is suggested. Cycle around the outer race making sure the bearing goes in evenly. The tone will change when the bearing is fully seated. Don't forget to put the space back in before installing the second bearing

Depends how much play you have as to if you'd risk it. Whats a hub worth to you? Thats what it could cost if it goes really bad. Also why I always keep spare bearings. Its a 10min job and far easier than changing a tyre. I always seem to find them the day before a ride while going over the pre ride checks.

 

[iamyvr]

Rear bearings

Go to the main page of the website. On the left click on "tech Articles" there is an article on changing rear bearings. It is good info...

I will post the rear bearing sizes shortly.. Again the All Balls Racing set is only $22.00

 

[iamyvr]

The all balls kit #25-1457 fits the EC125 01-02, EC200 99-02, EC250 96-02, EC300 99-02, MC125 01-02, and MC250 99-02.

It consists of:
2 seals labeled: 30-4701
2 bearings: 6004 2RD-QE6
1 bearing: 6204-2RD-QE6

 

[zeuszuki]

A trick I use, gently pry the seals off each side of a sealed bearing. Pack with water proof grease and refit the seals, your bearings will last a loooong time ;-)
I use a craft knife, be gentle and use the sharp tip in reverse direction to cutting ( eg: blunt thin edge )
NB: my 09 ec300 has 6905 front wheel bearings fitted stock

 

[Jakobi]

A trick I use, gently pry the seals off each side of a sealed bearing. Pack with water proof grease and refit the seals, your bearings will last a loooong time ;-)
I use a craft knife, be gentle and use the sharp tip in reverse direction to cutting ( eg: blunt thin edge )
NB: my 09 ec300 has 6905 front wheel bearings fitted stock

Not a fan of doing this. Quaility bearings come with enough grease packed in already, and you can reduce effectiveness by overpacking, as well as the risks associated in damaging the seal during removal. I let the seal do its job. I also use a decent amount of grease between the dust seal and the bearing seal and clean this grease away when the wheel is off and repack. It adds an extra buffer between the bearing and the seal.

The all balls kit #25-1457 fits the EC125 01-02, EC200 99-02, EC250 96-02, EC300 99-02, MC125 01-02, and MC250 99-02.

It consists of:
2 seals labeled: 30-4701
2 bearings: 6004 2RD-QE6
1 bearing: 6204-2RD-QE6

His is a 2012 model. May be the same, may be different. I'll check the sizes on my 2010/2011 model with the AJP hubs. I have a complete set in my spares kit to check. I've used Allballs in the past. The price is competitive and the business is solid. Availability is no issue too. But IMO the bearing quality is sub par when comparing to Japanese OEM bearings (Yam, zook, etc). You'll pay a little more for quality bearings but they will last and won't need the seals pry'd off or any such things. Nachi, Koyo, NTN, NSK are all quality. I've also used SFK and FAG with no issues.

 

[zeuszuki]

Not a fan of doing this. Quaility bearings come with enough grease packed in already, and you can reduce effectiveness by overpacking, as well as the risks associated in damaging the seal during removal. I let the seal do its job. I also use a decent amount of grease between the dust seal and the bearing seal and clean this grease away when the wheel is off and repack. It adds an extra buffer between the bearing and the seal.



His is a 2012 model. May be the same, may be different. I'll check the sizes on my 2010/2011 model with the AJP hubs. I have a complete set in my spares kit to check. I've used Allballs in the past. The price is competitive and the business is solid. Availability is no issue too. But IMO the bearing quality is sub par when comparing to Japanese OEM bearings (Yam, zook, etc). You'll pay a little more for quality bearings but they will last and won't need the seals pry'd off or any such things. Nachi, Koyo, NTN, NSK are all quality. I've also used SFK and FAG with no issues.

Each to their own, I guess I haven't learnt much in the last 18 years as a qualified motorcycle mechanic but my customers have never complained. For what it's worth I ALWAYS use quality Japanese bearings. The grease inside them is still only a minimum however. A sealed bearing ( as opposed to non sealed eg: stock Yamaha wheels ) is 100x better than not.

 

[Jakobi]

Definitely! Not saying you're doing a bad thing. Not having a go. Just saying that for someone like me who isn't 18 years qualified, I'm more likely to damage the bearing seal while trying to remove/replace it.

Like you said, going with a quality sealed bearing is a huge jump in the right direction.

 

[zeuszuki]

Definitely! Not saying you're doing a bad thing. Not having a go. Just saying that for someone like me who isn't 18 years qualified, I'm more likely to damage the bearing seal while trying to remove/replace it.

Like you said, going with a quality sealed bearing is a huge jump in the right direction.

Yeah Mate, I'm hearing you. I guess I need to be careful on advice sometimes, noobs might get into trouble
I guess when you have been messing with bikes for so long you just take it for granted

 

[GMP]

The best thing for long bearing life are SS spacers or alloy ones with a hard SS sleeve pressed on so they do not groove and let crap in. I have these made for all my bikes. The seals even last. I leave the bearings alone, but pack the gap between the bearing and seal with good grease, and redo everytime the wheels are off. I never replace bearings, just seals once a year.

 

[pigpen966]

I've always wondered. Some guys say remove the seal on the bearing and pack with grease some say not. I was in Applied Technologies (bearing distributor) picking up new bearings and seals, and got it straight from the horses mouth. Do NOT put more grease in them as it tends to make the ball bearings skid instead of roll. Makes sense to me. The man knows his bearings.