FSE 450 2005 idle misfire/stall when hot
- Thread starter Tafka
- Start date
So...little bit soon to cheer, i think, but i might have fixed my bike. I'll try to test one more time on wednesday, but yesterday the bike rode fantastic!
As you remember, then i have changed most of the parts already. One day i was out of ideas and took the original TPS apart.(not really meant to be opened.... ) Cleaned the tracks with alcohol and glued it back together. Put it in place and adjusted TPS.... And....i think that helped.
I dont know why bike didn't like the replacement TPS...measured with multimeter and all the values seemed more or less the same....
So yeah, it was nice to ride on forest trails and not worry about the bike....had forgotten already how the bike felt when all is working okay.
Will let you know if it really is fixed now
As you remember, then i have changed most of the parts already. One day i was out of ideas and took the original TPS apart.(not really meant to be opened.... ) Cleaned the tracks with alcohol and glued it back together. Put it in place and adjusted TPS.... And....i think that helped.
I dont know why bike didn't like the replacement TPS...measured with multimeter and all the values seemed more or less the same....
So yeah, it was nice to ride on forest trails and not worry about the bike....had forgotten already how the bike felt when all is working okay.
Will let you know if it really is fixed now
CongratsYeah, seems that cleaning the TPS worked. Yesterday was also fun to ride without bike acting up
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expirmininkas
New member
Please explain to the dummy - what is TPS? Are you talking about Throttle Position Sensor ?
I own GG EC 450, 2005 for a few month - when I've tested it before buying, everything went well...however, after few ridings it has started to misbehave - it is hard to start it, when hot. So maybe the problem is similar.
Thanks!
I own GG EC 450, 2005 for a few month - when I've tested it before buying, everything went well...however, after few ridings it has started to misbehave - it is hard to start it, when hot. So maybe the problem is similar.
Thanks!
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expirmininkas
New member
Hi,
Thank you!!! No, I did not check yet. The bike started to act like I've said suddenly, so I firtsly think that the prolem can be of electrical nature. Also, after some reading in this forum I've found out, that many things can cause problems with starting, thus, I want to check what I can do by myself (check connections, etc.). BTW, could you possibly now: I've changed the spark plug to the new one (NGK CR8E) and after ~ 5 hour of riding I've foud out, that it is black. May this be a situation causing problems with starting? Should I install the new spark plug, like CR9E. As the manual says:
"To find the correct heat grade spark plug is being used, take it out
and examine the insulation around the electrode. If the ceramic is
light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to engine temperature.
If the ceramic is white, the plug should be replaced with the next
coldest plug. If the ceramic is black, the plug should be replaced
with the next hottest plug."
Thank you!!! No, I did not check yet. The bike started to act like I've said suddenly, so I firtsly think that the prolem can be of electrical nature. Also, after some reading in this forum I've found out, that many things can cause problems with starting, thus, I want to check what I can do by myself (check connections, etc.). BTW, could you possibly now: I've changed the spark plug to the new one (NGK CR8E) and after ~ 5 hour of riding I've foud out, that it is black. May this be a situation causing problems with starting? Should I install the new spark plug, like CR9E. As the manual says:
"To find the correct heat grade spark plug is being used, take it out
and examine the insulation around the electrode. If the ceramic is
light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to engine temperature.
If the ceramic is white, the plug should be replaced with the next
coldest plug. If the ceramic is black, the plug should be replaced
with the next hottest plug."
Have you ridden the bike "good"....i mean, little bit more gas than idle 
The plug gets black pretty easy when riding at idle speeds.
If you have used the throttle more then i would start checking other things...seems like running too rich.
TPS could be the issue BUT the injector can be also the problem!
I think my problem was caused by two things....worn/dirty TPS and injector.
The plug gets black pretty easy when riding at idle speeds.
If you have used the throttle more then i would start checking other things...seems like running too rich.
TPS could be the issue BUT the injector can be also the problem!
I think my problem was caused by two things....worn/dirty TPS and injector.
expirmininkas
New member
Hi,
Thank you for reply. Well, I took the bike to the forest lately And when it is running, it "wants to go up on wheelie" on the 3rd gear. However, if for any reason engine shuts down, it is very difficult to start it again - it doesnt not start, later it fires, and if I open full throttle during starting process, it seems like starter stops its work (to be short: opening full throttle kills starting).
If I wait for a ~ minute, in mostly cases I can start the engine. Maybe it is normal for GG?
I remember having Yamaha XT660R - I could start it again after engine shutting down immediately during riding, even when I am still on the bike
Thank you for reply. Well, I took the bike to the forest lately
And when it is running, it "wants to go up on wheelie" on the 3rd gear. However, if for any reason engine shuts down, it is very difficult to start it again - it doesnt not start, later it fires, and if I open full throttle during starting process, it seems like starter stops its work (to be short: opening full throttle kills starting).If I wait for a ~ minute, in mostly cases I can start the engine. Maybe it is normal for GG?
I remember having Yamaha XT660R - I could start it again after engine shutting down immediately during riding, even when I am still on the bike
Yeah, the hard starting sounds familiar
If you try to start, are you touching the throttle? If yes then DON'T!
There's two ways to start GG:
1) ignition ON, wait until the fuelpump primes and then hit the start button.
2) If after 2-3 tries no luck then: ignition on, fuel pump primes and then turn the throttle fully open and then hit the start button.
Moving the throttle during starting is NO-NO
Is your starter okay? I had also some problem when starter clutch was slipping....
But yeah, injector and TPS could be also issue
If you try to start, are you touching the throttle? If yes then DON'T!
There's two ways to start GG:
1) ignition ON, wait until the fuelpump primes and then hit the start button.
2) If after 2-3 tries no luck then: ignition on, fuel pump primes and then turn the throttle fully open and then hit the start button.
Moving the throttle during starting is NO-NO
Is your starter okay? I had also some problem when starter clutch was slipping....
But yeah, injector and TPS could be also issue
expirmininkas
New member
Thank you!
So, throttle should be opened beforing pushing starting button, if the bike failed to start in 2-3 times?
So, throttle should be opened beforing pushing starting button, if the bike failed to start in 2-3 times?
expirmininkas
New member
Thank you again!!!
BTW, yesterday I've done compression test, and the reading was 0.5 Mpa (~ 72.5 psi or 5 bar). Do you know, whether is OK? I cannot find info about it.....
And I've found the info (in workshop manual):
The correct compression of a cylinder indicates that
the internal conditions are good. The decision to
inspect a cylinder is based on the results that we
obtain when measuring the cylinder compression.
Compression verification should be included in
concessionaire inspections.
DATA Compression:
Standard: 1000 Kpa (10.0 Kgf/cm2).
So the journey to find out the problem (valve clearance, pisto, rings, etc.) begins....
BTW, yesterday I've done compression test, and the reading was 0.5 Mpa (~ 72.5 psi or 5 bar). Do you know, whether is OK? I cannot find info about it.....
And I've found the info (in workshop manual):
The correct compression of a cylinder indicates that
the internal conditions are good. The decision to
inspect a cylinder is based on the results that we
obtain when measuring the cylinder compression.
Compression verification should be included in
concessionaire inspections.
DATA Compression:
Standard: 1000 Kpa (10.0 Kgf/cm2).
So the journey to find out the problem (valve clearance, pisto, rings, etc.) begins....
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expirmininkas
New member
Yes, I did measurement with throttle fully open. And there may be two things:
1. My measurement instrumet is too old/faulty, or
2. Compression is too low, which is very possible, as I have problems with starting.
I've found somebody that repais GG in Lithuania, so, I'll take the bike to them to do the valve clearance checking.
1. My measurement instrumet is too old/faulty, or
2. Compression is too low, which is very possible, as I have problems with starting.
I've found somebody that repais GG in Lithuania, so, I'll take the bike to them to do the valve clearance checking.
Try and squirt some engine oil in from spark plug hole. If the reading then jumps up to normal or even more, then you have a worn engine. Also, you can test your pressure gauge against some other manometer (tire for ex).
