Had this 99 ec 200 sittin on a stand in the shop for a couple years now.She was pretty clapped out and the engine was locked up.I was trying to make my life easy and buy another complete bike before opening before opening what I knew was gonna be pandoras box.After a year of browsing craigslist and running wanted ads the extra parts bike couldn't be had.So last night I decided it was tup ime to open her up.Couple things I noticed right off the bat when I took her off the stand and rolled her over to our gearshef to work on was what a tank this thing was.Im gettin older too but I'm not kidding Id hate yo have to push this thing outta the woods.Its my first Gasser tear down,one thing I noticed right off the bat was the bike really doesn't come apart that easy.I can tear my old 87 cr 250 down and have the engine out and sitting on the bench in about 15 minutes.Not the Gasser.Once I got all the plastics off,the subframe and pipe which took awhile,I went after the engine.The shifter is a pain.I went after the barrel and ran into another huge pain in the ass.Broke the bolt that holds the water pump actuater arm on the power valve.Snap.Cheesy easy fix to beef it up.The huge obstacle was the barrel nut in that corner was put on how?Ground started gr!inding down on one of my old favorite half inch wrenches until ultimately there was nothing left.Never got a wrench on it and went after it with a center punch.That worked,no clue yet how a new nut is goin back on yet.Slid the barrel off,its a tight fit but with the piston all the way down I got her.Barrel looked great,piston looked almost new lots of rust stain on the rod.Water had gotten in tbrough a crack in the carb connection and that that.Next step engine removal.Another huge pain.Swing arm bolt was a little stubborn I expected that.Got that out eventually and removed the other engine mounting bolts.Next F**kshow,the engine is a monster and is built with no room to spare.It literally is formed around the front mount and the swing arm.So can't tilt it up and out or lift it from the back and out.Just halfway out wedged and stuck sliding off the stand time of my life.Regrouped after my wtf now moment and pulled the upper shock bolt to get the upper shock out of the frame and get some play in the swing arm.Used a pry bar and worked it out.The engine is heavy,ridiculously heavy.Which I like.I woulda thrown this bike in the dumpster hours before if I hadn't been so impressed with how beefy the engine was built.Got the thing on the bench crank and rod frozen solid.Dumped the engine upside down in a bucket and even after 2 yrar in the shop gunk and water poured out.Heated a quart of marvel mystery oil up nice and hit almost boiling dumped her in there and let her sit awhile.After about half an hour dumped a can of coca cola in on top and went to work on her and got her freed up.But of course not good news.So where from here.The bike has some real funky features like the tack welded wire carriers and the like.But this engine is impressively built so I'm gonna see it through.
Gas Gas 200 teardown
- Thread starter sweeper
- Start date
1. What are the crank rebuild options.
2.Am I the only guy to snap the power valve actuater nut off.Ill be modifying this myself,too cheesy not my style.I was impressed with the simplicity of the powervalve and linkage,especially the wire arm,smart.All attached with the worlds smalles bolt.
3.What special tool is required to tighten this barrel nut that is tucked under the powervalve.
4.Where can I get a factory service manual for this baby before I split the cases?Splitting cases is something I can usually do in my sleep.But after several traps,half thoughts and no thought engineeriing Ill wait.
Any thoughts,criticisms hindsight revelations would be greatly appreciated.
2.Am I the only guy to snap the power valve actuater nut off.Ill be modifying this myself,too cheesy not my style.I was impressed with the simplicity of the powervalve and linkage,especially the wire arm,smart.All attached with the worlds smalles bolt.
3.What special tool is required to tighten this barrel nut that is tucked under the powervalve.
4.Where can I get a factory service manual for this baby before I split the cases?Splitting cases is something I can usually do in my sleep.But after several traps,half thoughts and no thought engineeriing Ill wait.
Any thoughts,criticisms hindsight revelations would be greatly appreciated.
noobi
New member
Ha
You aren't the first person to snap that retaining bolt, and you wont be the last.
The rod, I think, is the same as the 250/300s, which is the same as a CR250. Someone with an older motor will have to confirm that though.
You just need a very skinny 13mm ring spanner for the PV side nut.
Can't help with a service manual that old though, there is one for an 05 250/300 motor floating around somewhere though. The engines are evolutionary instead of revolutionary, so the newer manual probably applies to the older motors somewhat.
The 99 would have the counter balancer cut out, but not the balancer itself?
You aren't the first person to snap that retaining bolt, and you wont be the last.
The rod, I think, is the same as the 250/300s, which is the same as a CR250. Someone with an older motor will have to confirm that though.
You just need a very skinny 13mm ring spanner for the PV side nut.
Can't help with a service manual that old though, there is one for an 05 250/300 motor floating around somewhere though. The engines are evolutionary instead of revolutionary, so the newer manual probably applies to the older motors somewhat.
The 99 would have the counter balancer cut out, but not the balancer itself?
Ill take your word for it on the wrench.But I ground that baby down to nothin and still never got on it.Thought about hoggin out some of the barrel behind it,but haven't looked the barrel over close enough yet.I have some new con rod kits for Honda 250s still from back in the day, would be sweet if I could use one.Might even have a new old hot rod floaten around.
I don't know where the counterbalancer used to be but there is a casting void on the ignition case half that looks about right for it.Ha this engine with a coubterbalancer add another 10 pounds.What a monster.
I don't know where the counterbalancer used to be but there is a casting void on the ignition case half that looks about right for it.Ha this engine with a coubterbalancer add another 10 pounds.What a monster.
Yeah their was something written on the rod,but I didn't catch it..I slapped the barrel and head back on so I could use the kickstarter to keep turnin the motor over once I got it freed up.
Rick ,you have a service manual for a 99-2000 ec 200?One you would sell?Not sure if its an ec actually now that I'm learning some things about them.Mostly that I got a lot to learn about them.I'm a TM guy and they are more straight forward as far as options and models go.
Yeah I'm not interested in selling it at all.Id rather dump $1200 and a crapload of time into it and still end up with a semi clapped out beater,then buy a near mint one for $2000 that I can ride today.
Rick ,you have a service manual for a 99-2000 ec 200?One you would sell?Not sure if its an ec actually now that I'm learning some things about them.Mostly that I got a lot to learn about them.I'm a TM guy and they are more straight forward as far as options and models go.
Yeah I'm not interested in selling it at all.Id rather dump $1200 and a crapload of time into it and still end up with a semi clapped out beater,then buy a near mint one for $2000 that I can ride today.
As far as this 200 goes I've heard enough of you rave about these things so I'm goin for it.I've also been on a forum where the entire forum thought that a kdx 200 was a race bike more then a trail bike.Not one member on that forum agreed that the bike is a damn good trail bike as opposed to a legendary racing machine which has won numerous AMA national championships and FIM world championships and a multi time Six Days overall winner.I'm not even kidding,the whole forum,wasn't a kdx 200 forum either.So to make a long story short.I hope you guys are right.
funmachines
New member
I just did a new piston, crank bearings, a few other bearings and the key seals on a 99 200 for my son. It's not too bad - hopefully you'll be happy once you ride it.
The one thing I changed was the axial clearance of the cranks bearings - I added a couple of shims from McMaster Carr to drop the clearance a bit. The rest was pretty easy.
Good luck with it.
The one thing I changed was the axial clearance of the cranks bearings - I added a couple of shims from McMaster Carr to drop the clearance a bit. The rest was pretty easy.
Good luck with it.
ugh,you make that sound so easy.I rev the crap out of these small bores,how bad are these crank issuse?Is it everyone of them or a here and there thing.
Lincolnlock
New member
I just went through an 01' 200 with a locked up rod bearing. Here are a few part numbers and resources to cut the cost in half.
PROX CR250 Rod Kit: 03.1315 http://www.amazon.com/ProX-Racing-Parts-03-1315-Connecting/dp/B0013LEXMQ
Crank Bearings: KOYO 63/28 You'll need two. Only purchase name brand bearings.
Crank Seals these guys have them for 1/3 of factory prices. You can also use these guys for all the other seals. Just use the factory parts manual and it has the sizes listed. Just order the sizes you need. I had good luck.: http://www.bestpartsonline.com/servlet/the-Motorcycle-Parts-cln-Gas-Gas/Categories
Wossner Pistons. They come in several sizes and they are way cheaper than other places. http://www.wossnerpistons.com/products/mode/filter/search/GasGas?fitment-category-id=BBB40D59-0BEE-E011-963B-000C29296656&fitment-category-name=2+Off-road
When you order gaskets, there is an option for an entire engine gasket kit. Just buy it. It's cheaper. I had the best service from Hall's Cycle and some parts dealers in Spain.
PROX CR250 Rod Kit: 03.1315 http://www.amazon.com/ProX-Racing-Parts-03-1315-Connecting/dp/B0013LEXMQ
Crank Bearings: KOYO 63/28 You'll need two. Only purchase name brand bearings.
Crank Seals these guys have them for 1/3 of factory prices. You can also use these guys for all the other seals. Just use the factory parts manual and it has the sizes listed. Just order the sizes you need. I had good luck.: http://www.bestpartsonline.com/servlet/the-Motorcycle-Parts-cln-Gas-Gas/Categories
Wossner Pistons. They come in several sizes and they are way cheaper than other places. http://www.wossnerpistons.com/products/mode/filter/search/GasGas?fitment-category-id=BBB40D59-0BEE-E011-963B-000C29296656&fitment-category-name=2+Off-road
When you order gaskets, there is an option for an entire engine gasket kit. Just buy it. It's cheaper. I had the best service from Hall's Cycle and some parts dealers in Spain.
Rick
New member
The axial play in the cranks to my knowledge has never been an issue. Mine has had several mm's of play since I can remember. I was concerned at one point. I've always been told from very reliable source's that that play is inherent to the style crank bearings used in the early model motors. This issue has been discussed several times dating back to late 1999 and early 2000.
If you take a few minutes a do a search on crank bearings I think you'll find some answers to your questions.
I'm not bragging on what funmachines did or his modifications, I'm merely commenting that others have had questions.
If the old Smackover site had been archived, there would be a ton of info there was well, from some of the very early owners and tinkers.
Rick
New member
You don't have to ride the 200 like a 125, there is more everywhere, which makes it so much easier. I'm a fast B SSR who races mostly cross country and harescrambles and have raced both my EC200 and YZ125 in the same class. The 200 is so much more forgiving than the 125. The 125 is a hoot to race, I'm happen to enjoy the ringing the piss out of the 125.
The 200 motor is so much more liner with more on the bottom. But you can change that by pipe, timing, jetting.....you'll have to see for yourself.
What pipe is on your bike? Do you have a FMF or Messico?
Really good stuff sir.Mucho appreciated.I have a few cr 250 rod kits layi n around so good to know.Ill check those bearing numbers out.I agree about the quality of parts.I won't use Cometic for anything.So my question is are the stock gaskets available?Seals I can usually match up at a good industrial bearing seal parts house.
Rick I got the messico pipe.Its beat to crap but I can fix her.I love them dame pipes I run on the tm 125 e I got.If you like woods racing 125s tm is hard to beat.I really don't even try to describe how good they are cuz until you ride one you won't get it.The gasser has a cool mini hockey stick muffler.I'm more trying to build the bike as a trail builder so I won't be racing it.But if I gotta split the cases I wanna deal with this spinning the bearing race on the crank issue while I'm in there.
Rick
New member
The Messico pipe is my favorite. I've tried a FMF for a day of riding, at the end of the day the Messico hands down the best pipe for my riding style. The hockey stick should also be a Messico as well. I had on as well, too loud and non USFS spark arrestor....so no go for me.
I'd like to ride a TM 125EN I've heard there monsters. My riding buddy has a TM300EN that is mean! Too much for me in the woods.
Getting back to the bearings, the bearings the 250' s had much bigger issue than the 200's. The one area to pay attention to on the 200 is the crank stuffers. There is 2 nylon inserts that are on the inside of the crank weights. There held in place by these little Allen head screws. The stuffers block the holes in the crank to provide more volume with inthe cases. Anyway, that damm screw can back out and jam the rod. When a screw backs out, creates a bit of a mess....act's like it is locked up. The crank will rotate, but only until the screw hits the rod again.
I know of three 200's this has happened to, one being mine, the other my friends and a forum member. The 200 is the only motor that uses those inserts.
Mine back out when i tried to start it. I was riding my buddies 200 when it locked up. So, if your going to replace the rod, pull those bolts out and red loctite them in so you don't have any issues.
I was able to modify a Allen wrench and put it back in by pulling the topend.
Pm me your email address and I'll send you a service manual and owners manual. It is for a 2000 EC 200, motor is the same.
Sounds great.That will definately help out on this one.
I've owned a lot of dirtbikes in the last 35 years.And the 97 tm 125en is the sickest bike I've ever ridden.All around pound for pound sickest bike I've ever ridden.
Got a tm 300 en I was gonna maybe trade for a 99 ec200.But I'm a little worried the guy might get hurt on it.
I've owned a lot of dirtbikes in the last 35 years.And the 97 tm 125en is the sickest bike I've ever ridden.All around pound for pound sickest bike I've ever ridden.
Got a tm 300 en I was gonna maybe trade for a 99 ec200.But I'm a little worried the guy might get hurt on it.
Niall-griffiths
Gold Level Site Supporter
A brake pipe spanner fits nicely for the barrel nuts btw
I didn't get mine in their.Maybe next time I see a Snap On truck Ill look for a liw pro skinny one.Brake line spanners tend to be beefy cuz a third of the wrench is cutaway.I know they can't be taking that nut off and putting it back on with a center punch either.
firffighter
New member
Did you happen to see this '99?
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16430
Utah isn't too far
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16430
Utah isn't too far
