General advice for New Owner

The clutch cover is billet and made by Force Accessories:

https://www.forceaccessories.com.au/

i have used their stuff on other bikes , well made and good customer service

Thanks! Didn't see this on their site but maybe they just haven't updated it yet.


Thanks for the page reference , have this manual and searched it ...just never thought to look under "Centrifugal external adjustment system"....LOL ....only in Spain!

Yeah haha, different wording.
 
Thanks! Didn't see this on their site but maybe they just haven't updated it yet.



Yeah , not on their web site . You have to call them - ask for Daniel Holt

PS I'm not affiliated / don't work for this company - just want to give them a good rap fro their products and services!
 
Rode it about 10 km around the neighbourhood the jetting is crap! Smooth enough until you give it a handful from steady throttle then it bogs down.
The shop was supposed to have fixed the jetting as part of the PDI , told me they were fitting a NECH needle which would provide a good result!
It will be heading back to the shop for them to sort it![/QUOTE]

Had all sorts of excuses from the dealer as to why it was running like crap (all my fault of course) and they would not come and collect the bike to sort it....

Ended up telling them I was bringing it in myself and I wouldn't be back to get it til it was running correctly.

They called me back the next day after i dropped it off ....they had left one of the restrictors in the air box ...hence the crap running!

They will be dropping it back next week.....we'll see if that's fixed it!
 
That happened to me also, found the restriction when taking of the air filter. It really spoils the power when wot :D
 
Rode it about 10 km around the neighbourhood the jetting is crap! Smooth enough until you give it a handful from steady throttle then it bogs down.
The shop was supposed to have fixed the jetting as part of the PDI , told me they were fitting a NECH needle which would provide a good result!
It will be heading back to the shop for them to sort it!

Had all sorts of excuses from the dealer as to why it was running like crap (all my fault of course) and they would not come and collect the bike to sort it....

Ended up telling them I was bringing it in myself and I wouldn't be back to get it til it was running correctly.

They called me back the next day after i dropped it off ....they had left one of the restrictors in the air box ...hence the crap running!

They will be dropping it back next week.....we'll see if that's fixed it!


I believe my bike still has that plastic piece of shit in the air cleaner, what's it look like? That said, my bike runs fine :)

As for the shit running, mine ran like a turd from new. the culprit was a poorly adjusted power valve :(
 
Thanks for the replies.

Glad to hear it is not just my bike . According to the dealer this was "a new restrictor we have never see on this model before" LOL :rolleyes::confused:

I'll see if they can bring it when they drop the bike back so I can post a pic!

I took your advice a few posts back Rodent and tried adjusting the power valve (Just knocked it back from 2 turns out to 1.5 turns). Did not change the shit running.

What was the problem with the adjustment of your power valve and how did you fix it?

Thanks
 
I took your advice a few posts back Rodent and tried adjusting the power valve (Just knocked it back from 2 turns out to 1.5 turns). Did not change the shit running.

What was the problem with the adjustment of your power valve and how did you fix it?

Thanks

You need to re-read the manual, you have adjusted the powervalve to not give you heaps of top end punch, you need 2+ turns to get the sucker hopping. Where is says "tighten" in red below it actually means CCW

Mine is set at 2 1/4 turns CCW.


Centrifugal external adjustment system
Adjustment of the pre-loading of the centrifugal spring

Dismantling and adjustment:
1. Remove the plug (1) with a 27mm wrench.
2. Secure the adjustment screw (2) with a 2.5mm Allen key and loosen the
locknut (3) with a 6mm angled spanner.
3. Tighten the screw (CW) (2) to the bottom and then tighten(CCW) according to the
recommendation table.

Assembly:
1. Secure the rotation of the adjustment screw (2) with a 2.5mm Allen key
and tighten the locknut (3) with a 6mm angled spanner in order to lock the
adjustment system.
2. Ensure the correct positioning and condition of the copper gasket (4) replace
the plug (1) and tighten with a 27mm spanner and a maximum torque of 25Nm.
Adjustment
Pre-load value
(mm)

Site conditions or circuit type Engine performance.
1 turn 14.2 (250/300) No grip (snow or mud) Power and RPM limitation.
1.5 turn 14.6 (250/300) Difficult grip or technical circuit Smooth power delivery
2 turns(standard) 15 (250/300) Correct grip or combination circuit Optimum/standard
2.5 turns 15.4 (250/300) Fast circuit Live engine
3 turns 15.8 (200/250/300) Very fast circuit Low torque at low RPM and aggressive engine
 
20200613_123039.jpg

Lock down lifted ...so it got its first taste of dirt last weekend

Felt strange at first after years on a 4T...after a couple of hours I got into the groove....

Found I needed to ride more aggressively but the suspension and handling took everything I threw at it...

1.5 turns on the power valve and rain map made it perfect for the gnarly stuff we were riding.

My riding buddy took a coupe of turns on it and is now looking to trade his Beta....told him he'll have to wait for e Reju! :D:D
 
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On the negative side

Jetting is still pretty shite....better than before they removed the restrictor but not great low down....and will bog on quick throttle opening ... still rideable in the terrain...but needs some work

Wider than I would like up front ....I'm coming off a beam frame bike with the tank sitting in between the frame rails so I guess that's why I notice a difference.

Bars need to be taller for me and I think I'll end up gearing it lower for some of the really snotty climbs . Both of these are personal preference and easily fixed
 
On the negative side

Jetting is still pretty shite....better than before they removed the restrictor but not great low down....and will bog on quick throttle opening ... still rideable in the terrain...but needs some work

Wider than I would like up front ....I'm coming off a beam frame bike with the tank sitting in between the frame rails so I guess that's why I notice a difference.

Bars need to be taller for me and I think I'll end up gearing it lower for some of the really snotty climbs . Both of these are personal preference and easily fixed

On the positive side this gives you something to do!

It's all personal setup from here on in. Same for any brand of bike really.

Every new GG I buy follows the same process..

Head pulled, squish clearance measured, sent to TSP for modification.
Jetting set (float height, pilot and main recorded, and needle of my choice selected) - it's just a baseline knowing some adjustment will be required.
Suspension - set baseline sag measurements and record. Record clicker settings.
Gearing - 13/50 has always been my go to. I find 13/48 a bit too tall for the steep stuff. I'd rather stay out of 1st gear most the time.

For you. If you're bogging when whacking the throttle I'd be adjusting the pilot jet and/or air screw. Start with AS and up the pilot if you end up under 1 turn out from fully seated. I'd also be checking what clip position they have the needle in.
 
Thanks Jakobi, good advice

I was thinking about 13/50....seems other have the same experience ...I had to knock down to first for slow snotty climbs ....like you a want to be able to climb in second!:):D
 
No worries.

I might even go 13/52 on the 2018 model.. but I'm also on a 250. I feel like the internal gearing on these new ones is taller than the older ones. I haven't confirmed if it is.. just feels that way.
 
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