Good GasGas 2 stroke mechanic near Portland Or

lineman12345678

New member
I need to find a good mechanic for my 2008 EC300. It used to run perfect until I changed the ignition to the EC3 to run my Trail Tech HID lights. After that it has a horrible blubber in the midrange. Trail Tech has gone through it and they say every thing is good. I order the LTR jet kit from GOFasters which really wasn't a kit just a DDK needle and the 2 jets I all ready had. That made it worse. I have jetted it all over the place and nothing helps. I give up and if I cant get someone to fix it it's going up for sale. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Sounds like you need to just go riding with a couple of guys who know jetting and take a handful of brass, including needles. I'll volunteer if we can coordinate a place to meet.
 
Where in Portland do you live? I live in portland...

labor charge = 1 beer, preferably cold.

jeff
webmaster
gasgas riders club.
 
I know a good mechanic in Portland

Lineman, BOSS or Bozarth Offroad Specialty Service is in southeast Portland. Don't have the number-need to 411 it. Rick is racer and has been wrenching on huskys and ktms since the mid 80s. He knows ohlins suspension etc..He is a top Husaberg dealer, straight out of the shop behind his house. He is real meticulous and fair and will tackle most things.
The settings on my 250 are: needle ltr or the proper brass one, pilot 43, main-180 ,mixture screw-1.5 out. Yours should be vary similar. Oh, and I think needle is in middle.
Obviously you are running good gas with proper ratio. is the float parallel with the carb body when upside down? Have you looked at the intake boot or overtightened the clamps on the boot-seen it done. Air leaks downstream from the carb will do weird stuff. Kill switch?(I'm just thinking outloud). Sounds like if its not fuel dilivery it's something shorting out or not getting enough kv to the plug. I think you may be right in your assumption with the electrical.

Rick's shop is at 237 SE 83rd ave Portland Or
 
Float level is good I have tried many different option of jetting. What does over tight clamps on carb boot do?


Lineman, BOSS or Bozarth Offroad Specialty Service is in southeast Portland. Don't have the number-need to 411 it. Rick is racer and has been wrenching on huskys and ktms since the mid 80s. He knows ohlins suspension etc..He is a top Husaberg dealer, straight out of the shop behind his house. He is real meticulous and fair and will tackle most things.
The settings on my 250 are: needle ltr or the proper brass one, pilot 43, main-180 ,mixture screw-1.5 out. Yours should be vary similar. Oh, and I think needle is in middle.
Obviously you are running good gas with proper ratio. is the float parallel with the carb body when upside down? Have you looked at the intake boot or overtightened the clamps on the boot-seen it done. Air leaks downstream from the carb will do weird stuff. Kill switch?(I'm just thinking outloud). Sounds like if its not fuel dilivery it's something shorting out or not getting enough kv to the plug. I think you may be right in your assumption with the electrical.

Rick's shop is at 237 SE 83rd ave Portland Or
 
Sounds like the timing is off. We had this happen last year when gasgasman & myself put a new stator in the Perry Mountain 24 hour race bike.
 
I re-jetted it with DDK needle middle position 178 main and 40 Pilot. I also pulled the power valve cover and sprayed some cleaner in there. I took it out for a ride and it pulls real well. I am only a half turn out on the fuel screw. The farther I go out on the screw it starts to blubber. It is not perfect but getting closer. I still thinks it is weird that it ran so perfect before the ignition swap. I was running a 35 pilot 178 main with stock needle before. This is the same jetting Roscoe is running and it ran great before ignition swap.
 
I re-jetted it with DDK needle middle position 178 main and 40 Pilot... I am only a half turn out on the fuel screw. The farther I go out on the screw it starts to blubber.

It's an air screw (not fuel screw), as you turn it out then you adding more air and leaning the mixture. Since you can only go 1/2 turn out, it indicates that your pilot jet is too small.

Leave the needle clip @ 3 position (middle). Then go after the pilot jet to get it correct first. You should try to be in the 1 to 2 turns out range. This allows you adjustment flexibility in the future for temp/humidity changes.

Approx. same air/fuel mixture, I would try the 42 pilot.
Current setting: 1/2 turn out air screw @ 40 pilot.
New setting: 1 turn out air screw @ 42 pilot.
Note: pilot jet influences the 0 to 1/4 throttle range.

AFTER the pilot jet is good...
Then I would investigate the needle clip position. The needle clip position influences a broad range from 1/8 to 1/2 throttle. If too rich, more clip up 1 notch (2nd position). If too lean, more clip down 1 notch (4th position).
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lineman12345678
I re-jetted it with DDK needle middle position 178 main and 40 Pilot... I am only a half turn out on the fuel screw. The farther I go out on the screw it starts to blubber.

I run 48 pilot with 180 main (and LTR needle) on my 250:eek:
 
Thanks. I was thinking about trying the 42 pilot also. With the 40 I can run it 1 turn out but 1/2 turn is much better. I think the 42 will work the best. Are you counting the needle clip position from the bottom up or top down?



It's an air screw (not fuel screw), as you turn it out then you adding more air and leaning the mixture. Since you can only go 1/2 turn out, it indicates that your pilot jet is too small.

Leave the needle clip @ 3 position (middle). Then go after the pilot jet to get it correct first. You should try to be in the 1 to 2 turns out range. This allows you adjustment flexibility in the future for temp/humidity changes.

Approx. same air/fuel mixture, I would try the 42 pilot.
Current setting: 1/2 turn out air screw @ 40 pilot.
New setting: 1 turn out air screw @ 42 pilot.
Note: pilot jet influences the 0 to 1/4 throttle range.

AFTER the pilot jet is good...
Then I would investigate the needle clip position. The needle clip position influences a broad range from 1/8 to 1/2 throttle. If too rich, more clip up 1 notch (2nd position). If too lean, more clip down 1 notch (4th position).
 
It's also important that you back out and reset the idle screw - if you have it cranked in too far you are starting to "pull over" from the needle/main too early. Where is your idle screw set now? If it is cranked in to the point of coil bind on the spring - then it needs to be backed out.

jeff
 
Yes it is compressing the spring a bit. I will back it out when I switch it to the42 pilot. Thanks


It's also important that you back out and reset the idle screw - if you have it cranked in too far you are starting to "pull over" from the needle/main too early. Where is your idle screw set now? If it is cranked in to the point of coil bind on the spring - then it needs to be backed out.

jeff
 
I this weather - I would go with a 45 pilot and then turn down the idle. I would go with the LTR needle - one clip position up from center.

What fuel & mixture ratio are you using, etc. Are you running a race fuel or pump gas? You would go leaner for a race gas with a lighter specific gravity.

jeff
 
By the way, if you want to make the carb easier to dial in - consider having the Ron at RB-Designs do his carb mod on your keihin. And to make it run cleaner (greater efficiency and throttle response) - having the squish dialed in by Ron too. He is located in Portland (actually Bonney Slope) - so is relatively local to you.

jeff
 
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