GP300/18 Power Valve Tweaks
- Thread starter Doc Brown
- Start date
Gasser Nate
New member
Yep massive changes. Mine was on about 1 turn out, (soft) wound it out to 3-3 1/2 out turned it into a animal. 2 1/2 seems to be a nice balance for me. Enough zap to instantly lift the front if need be.
memphis2857
New member
It makes huge adjustments. The bike becomes unrideable if you screw it all the way in or all the way out. 1/4 adjustments make a very noticeable difference. I run mine at 2 1/4 most of the time
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memphis2857
New member
If you are still using stock jetting, you need to focus on that first. The N1EF leaves tons of bottom/mid range power on the table. In fact it just plain sucks. Get yourself a NEDW or N3CH needle and thank me later. I prefer the N3CH
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Hahaha, I thank you now. But not for the hint, for posting a reply 
I run the JD kit and I am happy with it. The standard needle is really crap and I have no clue why GG uses it.
I have tried different PV settings yesterday all day on a 4mile loop conatining every possible terrain except rocks and stones.
1 turn out is calm and nice but also lazy and is no fun in the faster parts. 3 turns out is even worth in my opinion as there is literally no torque at all. It creates something like a turbo lag, its really a pain.
2.5 was way better but still had less torque than standard.
1.5 was best for me, torquey and pulling strong through the midrange with a bit less top end (which I dont need anyway). I dare say it accelerates as good as with 2 turns out but you need to shift while surfing on the torque wave.
In a nutshell, 1.5 works for me old bastard. Over here in Europe we ride a lot slower tracks than in the uS where there's a lot of very fast flowing tracks...
So its fine and I can chug up hills in a higher gear using less clutch than before...
edit: forgot to say I run 13/50 instead of 13/48
I run the JD kit and I am happy with it. The standard needle is really crap and I have no clue why GG uses it.
I have tried different PV settings yesterday all day on a 4mile loop conatining every possible terrain except rocks and stones.
1 turn out is calm and nice but also lazy and is no fun in the faster parts. 3 turns out is even worth in my opinion as there is literally no torque at all. It creates something like a turbo lag, its really a pain.
2.5 was way better but still had less torque than standard.
1.5 was best for me, torquey and pulling strong through the midrange with a bit less top end (which I dont need anyway). I dare say it accelerates as good as with 2 turns out but you need to shift while surfing on the torque wave.
In a nutshell, 1.5 works for me old bastard. Over here in Europe we ride a lot slower tracks than in the uS where there's a lot of very fast flowing tracks...
So its fine and I can chug up hills in a higher gear using less clutch than before...
edit: forgot to say I run 13/50 instead of 13/48
Last edited:
memphis2857
New member
I too ride a lot of really tight, slow, extreme stuff, the harder the better. Did the 13/50 make a big difference over 13/48? I find myself on the big, long hill climbs needing something between 1st and 2nd gear.
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Yes, definitely. 13/50 makes the second gear more user friendly, its a bit too long with 13/48. On the other hand you can ride easier climbs in thrid and it chugs up, in case it gets gutless you just feather the clutch where you would shift in second with 13/48.
I first tried 12/48 but that is unrideable in my opinion, its too short.
I then tried 13/50 which works fine, the only problem is the original 112 link chain is too short and you need a new one with 114 links.
When I bought the 50 teeth sprocket I also bought a 49 and it could be that this fits with a used original chain but I doubt that you will feel much difference.
I first tried 12/48 but that is unrideable in my opinion, its too short.
I then tried 13/50 which works fine, the only problem is the original 112 link chain is too short and you need a new one with 114 links.
When I bought the 50 teeth sprocket I also bought a 49 and it could be that this fits with a used original chain but I doubt that you will feel much difference.
No, you don't need longer chain with 13/50 sprockets. You can reverse a distance blocks on an axle. I did it, on the begining chain is a little tight, but in tolerance.
memphis2857
New member
I just tried 13/50 on mine tonight and it wouldn’t work. The axle wouldn’t even go in without the blocks. I will need at least 1 more link and probably 2.
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Motocrotts
New member
Spoke with RK TEC and he told me to set the pv at 2-5/8 to 2-3/4 turns out. He also said the stock head is a horrible design. I'm sending mine in Monday.
memphis2857
New member
I totally disagree with his suggested PV settings and I’m guessing you will too. Having it out that far will make it a light switch.
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Agree with that memphis2857.
I still have the problem that the power comes too fierce once the throttle is opened more than half.
Going uphill in second with low revs, then open the throttle further and th epower really kicks in brutal and it wants to lift the front. Thats a pain to control...
I tried everything from 1 turn out to 3 turns out in quarter steps but the problem remains
I also had the impression that with 2,5 turns out it had less torque than with 2 turns out...
I still have the problem that the power comes too fierce once the throttle is opened more than half.
Going uphill in second with low revs, then open the throttle further and th epower really kicks in brutal and it wants to lift the front. Thats a pain to control...
I tried everything from 1 turn out to 3 turns out in quarter steps but the problem remains
I also had the impression that with 2,5 turns out it had less torque than with 2 turns out...
Motocrotts
New member
Mine is at 2-1/2 now and it is great. Maybe thats the setting he likes after their head mod? I have great torque and smooth power at 2.5 turns out.
