Help with Float Level - Low mileage EC250 2013

[periclesgsilva]

Hello guys! Like always, sorry for my bad english!
Well, like the title say, need some help with float level. I really think this is the reason about my low mileage. 9,5l only 75km.
Here go my specs:
Gasgas EC 250 2013
Engine: new, with 19 hours (top end and bearings)
Carb specs: 42/175
Air: 1 turn
Sea Level: 40 meters
Temperature: 25/35C
Need help to check where i need to measure. My carb have a PWK on the side. But i can't find a way to see 16mm to this carb. Or the 6mm.
Any help would be appreciable.
In the pictures, i need to measure from blue to red or blue to yellow line? Thanks!

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

Which PWK is it? Does the top of the carb screw off (AS1) or are there screws attaching the top of the carb to the body (AS2).

The float heights are different for each carb.

You should be measuring from the yellow line in your photo (top of the float) to the rim where the float bowl seats (blue line).

 

[periclesgsilva]

Hello Jacob. Very good info about ASI or ASII. I will check on my house in a few moments. Thanks in advance my friend!

EDITED: Sorry Jacob, i read wrong. There is screws attaching the top of the carb. Misunderstood something like "typed" in top of the carb.

 

[Jakobi]

In your pic the yellow line should be parallel to the blue, and then that your measurement. The float itself should appear somewhat level but just off.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11886

Depending on the carb model the distance will vary. See link and other thread you tagged on.

 

[Biff]

Might want to check what needle you have.
My new 2013 came with the "stock" needle and was way too rich.
Swapped it out , and all good.
Mileage was 25mpg, now 35mpg

Will let you know needle type later, as I can't remember!

Biff

 

[periclesgsilva]

Might want to check what needle you have.
My new 2013 came with the "stock" needle and was way too rich.
Swapped it out , and all good.
Mileage was 25mpg, now 35mpg

Will let you know needle type later, as I can't remember!

Biff

Biff what needle you are usng?

Enviado de meu SM-N910C usando Tapatalk

 

[Biff]

Biff what needle you are usng?

Enviado de meu SM-N910C usando Tapatalk

N3CJ 04 - 2nd clip
ktm part no 54731034600

Biff

 

[lneil06]

Might want to check what needle you have.
My new 2013 came with the "stock" needle and was way too rich.
Swapped it out , and all good.
Mileage was 25mpg, now 35mpg

Will let you know needle type later, as I can't remember!

Biff

Biff - what jetting are you using ?

 

[Jakobi]

N3CJ - 2nd clip
ktm part no 54731034600

Biff

Biff - what jetting are you using ?

Above.. Also OEM for Yamaha YZ series; can look up part numbers. Usually cheaper through KTM.

Will be coupled with a 42 pilot, and 178 main more than likely. Give or take a few sizes.

 

[lneil06]

I have the nedw, j&D - red and blue as well.

Last ditch effort - doing to drop the float height - change the needle to #3 Red.

Was seeing a ton of smoke last night
pilot jet is at 40
Main is at 175

Jakobi - any other ideas ? I also have a #7 slide in it. Should I try the 42 Pilot even though the 40 is smoking a lot?

Lenny

 

[Jakobi]

I have the nedw, j&D - red and blue as well.

Last ditch effort - doing to drop the float height - change the needle to #3 Red.

Was seeing a ton of smoke last night
pilot jet is at 40
Main is at 175

Jakobi - any other ideas ? I also have a #7 slide in it. Should I try the 42 Pilot even though the 40 is smoking a lot?

Lenny

The float height is important. 6.5mm is spec. I find 7.5mm to be a much better improvement.

What is the issue you're trying to sort? I don't really get too concerned by spooge/smoke, particularly if you've been riding slow. I aim for throttle response, looking for it to cleanly take revs, not loading up, or falling flat. There always seems to be a compromise somewhere in the rev range regardless of how good you get it too. Such is the nature of the beast.

I've found the Yamaha/KTM series (dual taper) needles are about the same on fuel as the Suzuki (triple taper). They just deliver it differently. The N3xx needles tend to be quite grunty off the bottom end, but around mid throttle they lean out into the 2nd taper and it shows as a rather aggressive transition with a strong top end. More of your 2 stroke nature with a clear on/off the pipe.

The Suzuki needles are a bit leaner on the first taper. This can make them feel less punchy, but they respond well to clutch. The 2nd taper supplies more fuel and dulls the mid hit and they show as more torquey (probably why opening the throttle a bit and fanning the clutch allows them to chug so well), up top the needle supplies more fuel than the N3xx so you can get away with a smaller main by a size or two.

I usually run the N3xx a half a clip richer than the NExx needles as well.

If you have access to getting the head setup (squish clearance reduced, comp ratio set, and band angle matched to piston dome) you'll find the bike much easier to jet, more resistant to weather changes, and you should pick up some power and fuel economy in the process.