How can I make my bike quieter?

Just be careful, and expect to change the pipe often. Its not the rust factor but the thinner pipe gets overheated and loses its temper thus becoming brittle. If you want quiter get a good cf pipe guard and have the pipe coated with ceramic jet hot or something. Wont be perfect but it will be better. Also see if you can borrow a fmf q s/a as most say they dont make much difference. The stock ktm s/a from a 250 can be modded to work and that is a quiet silencer. Most silencers from the 94-98 kx250 will work with little fabrication. If you can find one of the acerbis plastic s/a's for a kx they were tested in the low 90's and high 80's back when they were first out. Also the stock euro silencers are quiet but no s/a, one can be added(sparky). I'm running a messico pipe and a modified pro-circuit isde silencer(off a 300 ktm) on my 97 and its in the low 90's. Its even quieter with the stock gg silencer on it. My 03 with the fmf pipe was loud. I have mesico and the fmf s/a now with the dbsnorkle and its not too bad.
Good luck and keep us posted on any results good or bad.
Also check out http://www.loudsucks.com/forum/index.php forum for sound help..
 
The response from my personal expert (machinist/engineer):

Most, if not all, production expansion chambers aren't "tempered," "hardened," or otherwise heat -treated in any way. They are not made from heat treatable steel - it lacks the carbon content and/or alloy to retain any sort of heat treatment. The high ductility of the material is the very property that allows it to be formed and drawn into such radical contours and shapes so easily without tearing or failing. The only reason it has any rigidity at all is because it has been work hardened by the drawing/forming process by which its shape was created. Even right at the exhaust port, the material there is unlikely to get anywhere near the critical temperature to remove any temper(if it existed) or appreciably relieve any of the work-hardening. And the rest of the pipe is much, much cooler than that even under continuous WOT and high load.

You may be referring to "thermal fatigue," but that is typically only seen in applications with material cross-sections much much thicker than that of any expansion chamber.

Snowmobiles, jet-skis, two stroke street bikes and numerous other two stroke pipes are wrapped as a rule in many applications, and they do it for heat retention and/or to prevent heat transmission from the pipe to inside the shell of the sled/ski or other components on the bike, respectively. I've never seen them mention that wrapping the pipes has any effect on cracking or otherwise undue deterioration of the pipe.

There's a good chance that in whatever application you've seen cracking occur, the pipe was not suspended properly and the extra weight of the wrapping caused the pipe to resonate more radically or at an RPM where the machine was run more frequently/continuously, and the pipe material fatigued much faster than normal simply because it saw drastically higher, high-frequency cyclic stress - much higher than the endurance limit of the likely low-grade material as I mentioned earlier.

Suzuki RMX250s and numerous other enduro 2-stroke bikes used to come with "double-wall" expansion chambers, where there was actually two steel shells -one external one and one internal one perforated with holes, and a layer of fiberglass sandwiched in between them. They were very quiet when new but tended to burn out the fiberglass quickly and then sounded just like a typical thin-walled expansion chamber. My point for mentioning this is that the extra insulation had no effect on fatigue of either layer of steel in the pipe in my experience.


THE END


He talks a lot but he knows his stuff

Now personally I'm worried about the effects of water on the pipe wrap (water crossings, washing the bike etc) but I'm looking into some kind of coating like this: LINK

Thanks to the wonderful help of Nick at Cycle Pro 775, Elko, NV I am going to get a Q to try out and hopefully test with a sound meter. I've heard of the plastic acerbis s/a but haven't ever seen one.
 
I'll see if I can find the article. It was in dirt rider magazine some 10 years ago. They tested it for both sound damping and hp gains. The steel is not hardened, or tempered except from use. But just like on car headers you need to use the thicker metal or catastophic failure does occur. I dont mean this as the pipes blows the bike up. Its a term used as when the pipe fails there is no warning then the metal fractures and blows apart. If you work with removing dents from the messico pipes or thin racing pipes you would see the same type thing(my original 97 pipe is now unrepairable). The steel after many repairs looses its temper(think bendability) and when under pressure/hot removing a dent the pipe just blows out/gets weaker. If you heat the pipe up too much it gets softer and dents more easily. I have seen the pipe failure on a sled before, it worked well in the winter, but when grass racing it the pipes blew out. I'm in no way saying dont do it, just be careful, and let us know how it works.
I would love to get a real nice heavy pipe to get it queiter for the street(my 97).
Good luck,
Oh,
Here is a link with an example, but take it with a grain of salt as they are trying to sell you thier coating,,
http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.asp
 
I can tell you from personal experience over the years that the header sections of pipes will harden from heat and the thermal shock of cold water, as when crossing a stream. I had an otherwise good pipe just keep cracking in the header area from vibration, simply from age, it was never bent and reshaped (work hardened).

What would work well, IF it exists, is a high temp silicone coating. Something you could spray on thick like the Rhino truck bed liners. I work in the cryogenic field so I have some sources for specialty thermal products like this, I'll look into it. What also would be good is it would prevent the pipe from rusting, especially underneath a CF guard.
 
How can I make my bike quieter

To get back to the noise reflection bouncing back at U from our metal skidplates. I have read somewhere that U can get decent noise reduction from a spray can of truck bed liner spray. Also I thought maybe an under carriage protection product too. My xr44o makes a loud annoying sound, like it's going to explode. I will try one of these products and let U know.
 
Going back to the beginning of this thread... my buddy bought a used '01 GG 300 DE and it was loud. He repacked his silencer, he switched his FMF for another off a "quiet" Gasser in the club, he replaced the gasket on his cylinder spigot, he replaced the orings.
It was still obnoxiously loud (no skidplate BTW). Someone had installed his powervalve flap in upside down and it was stuck in the open postion. We cleaned the exhaust valves and reinstalled them - viola, a quiet Gasser.
Hope this helps others out there.
He said it ran a lot better too.:)
 
Creful what you buy on the spray on bedliner stuff. I got some at the local car parts joint and sprayed it on and let it sit for two days and the damn crap came right off. Don't know if it was the alum. or maybe some residue on the alum
 
Well checked out the powervalve and it's definently having issues. But it appears that it has been stuck closed not open... so that shouldn't affect the sound, just the performance. :rolleyes:
 
Here's what I've found out about the spray-on stuff for noise reduction for your aluminum skidplates. Talked to the tech at Bondo Corp. and he said I need to get " paintable rubber undercoating". It's heat resistant and U can paint it too. His brand is "Marhyde 4311". They checked for me, and Wash. State has none. I finally found some at Autozone. "Dupl-color" has two; the "Standard" and the "professional". "3-M" also has a "paintable rubber undercoating".
Directions are important: "Clean surface with acetone and scuff with 180 grit sandpaper". Two coats ought to do it. I think U can paint it any color if U like, with engine paint if I heard him wright. Better check though.
All the other stuff including bedliner's have an asphalt base and runs once it heat's up. I have'nt had a chance to pick some up yet, but plan on it. Thanks, Bob
 
Finally got the skidplate sprayed with the Dupli-Color paintable rubber undercoating. I used 100 grit sandpaper because the 180 didn't hardly scuff it at all. Then cleaned it up with acetone and used half a spray can. It said to apply when the temp. is 70 degrees or more. It looks good and is black. I only sprayed the in side of skidplate and all the brackets which clamp to the frame peices.
It took quite a bit of the noise out. But not all. It's alot better than before and I can live with a little noise. I wonder if I used the whole can, if it would be quieter? :rolleyes:
 
Did you ever try simply to fill the void between the plate and the engine with, say, Moose-brand skid plate foam?

That method also has the benefit of reducing the amount of mud/dirt/debris that accumulates between the plate and the engine.

Dale
 
I've heard of that but have'nt tried. I wouldn't want to remove my skidplate very often with the foam. I've also read that U can slit radiator hose and wrap frame tubes where skidplate makes contact. Also my new B&B skidplate for my FSE came with black foam cushioning taped to it where it meets all frame parts.
 
UPDATE: The power valve on my bike was gunked up to the point that it was stuck open. This resulted in little bottom end and awesome top end. Also REALLY LOUD. Cleaned up the PV, polished the ports a bit and put it all back together. Runs a lot quieter on this first ride and awesome bottom end! It's like I got a new bike with the same plastic! Too bad the plastic is scratched :)

I'm going to take the pipes I got from Nick at Cycle Pro and test them with a dB meter as soon as I can. More later.
 
How about dynamat?

I think that Dynamat might be worht a try (and I think I'll try it) on the skid plate.

It's self-adhesive, and I have some question as to how well the adhesive will hold up, but A small amount won't cost much. I'll try the stuff made for uner the hood.

I wrapped my frame rails with some old inner tube rubber before mounting my skid plate. I did it to protect the frame, but it probably has helped with the sound.

I picked up a Euro silencer from JeffD, and will try that out once I get an SA to go with it.
 
FYI, I had my bike 2001 EC200 sound tested this weekend. I have the stock euro-spec silencer and the messico (GasGas) pipe. Other mods are the MC ignition/flywheel, LTR powervalve cover, aluminum skid plate with slightly loose mounts and carbon fibre pipe guard. I tested at 85.8dBA. My buddy on a KTM250XC (stock) tested at 85.0dBA. My other buddy on a KTM450XC (stock) tested at 101dBA.
 
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