The little internal spigot thing that attaches to the back/inside of the tip was rattling in the cone (two mini spot welds broke).
In a pique, I decided to tear it down and fix it. Then I said, "Screw it. Let's cut this thing."
I did some rough measurements and decided on cutting 4-inches off the back end using a compound miter saw. For you Euro guys, 4-inches is the same distance as from the left side of the caps lock key and the right side of the F key on your 2006 MacBook Pro 17. That's like about 100 millimeters.
I put it all together, and while I didn't kick it to life, I suspect that a dyno would find a bit more bottom, a tad more top, and about 1db less on a standard sound test.
In a pique, I decided to tear it down and fix it. Then I said, "Screw it. Let's cut this thing."
I did some rough measurements and decided on cutting 4-inches off the back end using a compound miter saw. For you Euro guys, 4-inches is the same distance as from the left side of the caps lock key and the right side of the F key on your 2006 MacBook Pro 17. That's like about 100 millimeters.
I put it all together, and while I didn't kick it to life, I suspect that a dyno would find a bit more bottom, a tad more top, and about 1db less on a standard sound test.