12Bravo
New member
Is that bad? I see the Hmmm in your voice/text....haha
I don't see it.....
- Thread starter 12Bravo
- Start date
Is that bad? I see the Hmmm in your voice/text....haha
memphis2857
New member
Not necessarily. The bike should have an 18" rear wheel. Someone has swapped it for a 19. It just changes your tire choices a bit
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12Bravo
New member
My Vin# has EC2599812 in it. So I am assuming it is a 250 chassi made in Dec of 98.
Get the 18 for woods work.
Memphis?? Just wondering what your riding background is??
I've read a lot of your posts.Maybe it's a location thing?
memphis2857
New member
Been riding off-road since I was 8. I really don't see any point in spending a couple 100 bucks on an 18" wheel for this particular bike and rider. There are other things he could spend money on that would have a better benefits than an 18" rear wheel. People have been riding motocross bikes for years and years in the woods with 19" rear wheels. Take a close look at Kailub Russell or Ryan Sipes or Chris Bachs bikes and you will see quite often they run a 19" wheel.
I'm really not sure of what you're getting at here? Do I need to post a resume to post my opinions and thoughts?
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No.No not at all.
And your clarification makes sense.Used 19"s everywhere.I get that.
I also believe tires are everything.It isn't a place I'm willing to compromise.I'll take a clapped out hunk of crap with new tires and put you and your beautiful gasser with customized number plates and matching riding gear with the pearly white boots through it if you are running 65-70% tread.And a 19 gives up even more in the traction options department.
That is you in the third person.Or just about anybody.
The reason I was asking is most of the West Coast riders that post in here I agree with mostly when they post.
Your an active poster and I disagree with most of your posts.Not that that matters.My opinions aren't any more valid then anyone else's.And yours I'm sure are based on experience of yourself and others you ride and race with.
I was just musing a little.
Must be location.Different riding terrain.That kind of thing.Different mentality.
And your clarification makes sense.Used 19"s everywhere.I get that.
I also believe tires are everything.It isn't a place I'm willing to compromise.I'll take a clapped out hunk of crap with new tires and put you and your beautiful gasser with customized number plates and matching riding gear with the pearly white boots through it if you are running 65-70% tread.And a 19 gives up even more in the traction options department.
That is you in the third person.Or just about anybody.
The reason I was asking is most of the West Coast riders that post in here I agree with mostly when they post.
Your an active poster and I disagree with most of your posts.Not that that matters.My opinions aren't any more valid then anyone else's.And yours I'm sure are based on experience of yourself and others you ride and race with.
I was just musing a little.
Must be location.Different riding terrain.That kind of thing.Different mentality.
wrench
Gold Level Site Supporter
Clay is not the same everywhere. Red, ash, grey or any other color for that matter. What works on the east coast is not always the same when talking south vs north much less for the stuff they have out west. Red clay in Arkansa is different then GA red clay. Then you get a mix mid state as you travel south and east gets you this nasty stuff called Kaolin clay.
I have found that the same tire combo does not always work well for all of these conditions. If you travel west 2 hours into Alabama the red clay looks the same but again it is not.
The only time I can think that clay is the same, is when it's wet.... The. It is just plain 'ol owl snot and nothing works well in that!
What is the point of this? Everyone has a preference of what they like based in many different factors. What works for me in GA and most of the south east (Michelin or Bridgestone up front/Michelin or PirelliXC on the rear of my 300. My 250 GG didn't like the PirelliXC rear at all) might work for you if you just happen to rid exactly the way I do and like your bike set up exactly the way I do.
Wether someone races or just trail rides really doesn't matter very much at all because there are so many variables to consider.
You will most likely have to do what we all have done. Take a few suggestions from the guys that your u ride with and try them out until you find the match for you.
I have found that the same tire combo does not always work well for all of these conditions. If you travel west 2 hours into Alabama the red clay looks the same but again it is not.
The only time I can think that clay is the same, is when it's wet.... The. It is just plain 'ol owl snot and nothing works well in that!
What is the point of this? Everyone has a preference of what they like based in many different factors. What works for me in GA and most of the south east (Michelin or Bridgestone up front/Michelin or PirelliXC on the rear of my 300. My 250 GG didn't like the PirelliXC rear at all) might work for you if you just happen to rid exactly the way I do and like your bike set up exactly the way I do.
Wether someone races or just trail rides really doesn't matter very much at all because there are so many variables to consider.
You will most likely have to do what we all have done. Take a few suggestions from the guys that your u ride with and try them out until you find the match for you.
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12Bravo
New member
Wow, never realized a simple tire question would turn into such a thing.
I'm new to dirt bikes and I'm also poor, so I am not able to just drop $75-100 just to see if a tire will or will not work.
Wrench and Rick bring up good points.
Thank you all for the post and opinions.
Has anyone used Kenda or Shinko tires?
I'm new to dirt bikes and I'm also poor, so I am not able to just drop $75-100 just to see if a tire will or will not work.
Wrench and Rick bring up good points.
Thank you all for the post and opinions.
Has anyone used Kenda or Shinko tires?
memphis2857
New member
I have used both and they will work just fine for the riding you will be doing. The Kenda is probably a little better tire. The washugal works well here in Indiana
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12Bravo
New member
I mainly looked at the Kenda for price. How is durability? I am fine with paying $100 for a tire if it last. But I can't afford to change a tire every 2 months, I plan to ride once or twice a week for a 20-25 miles and everyday around the house working on Clutch throttle control, just simple slow maneuvers.
I'm really interested in Endurocross stuff, looks fun and challenging, yet not crazy fast with huge jumps and stuff.
The Kenda Equilibrium is getting good reviews, it is a cross between a trials tire and a normal MX tire.
Haven't tried it yet though. Depending on the terrain which varies wildly here in Idaho...everything from hard pack desert, shale bolder fields, super slick mud to slime covered rocks and roots (all in one ride
) I run Michelins. M12's, S12's...and AC10's.I am going to give that Kenda a try next. It comes in a 19 too...
http://powersports.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/motorcyclescooter/mxoff-road/equilibrium/
barossi73
Gold Level Site Supporter
if you want to get some extra life out of a tyre,buy an$80 knobby knife.this lets you recut the rounded knobby edges back to square.typically i cut mine 3 or 4x then its new tire time.also saves the tire being removed/fitted a bunch of times or rotated.usually on the 2nd cut i also cut the lateral edges to get a bit of edge grip back.worthwhile on rears,not on fronts which usually last 2or3x longer than rear.takes about 20min each time,with no need to remove wheel
12Bravo
New member
Never would of thought of that. Will have to look into doing this once I get the dry rotten tire off the bike.
swazi_matt
Active member
Also use Tubliss and reduce the pressure as the tire wears and when you think all is done you just use a blade to slice the center of the middle knobs to add a bit of flex
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I only notice how well a tyre hooks up when its new as its replacing one that's well done. Tyre pressure and clutch control takes care of things generally. When riding I find that a bald tyre in motion still does quite well. If conditions are poor and you're stopped it can highlight its short comings. Just makes you work a bit harder.
I've use Dunlop MX51 rears pretty much exclusively on the last couple bikes. I can get them at decent prices. I can get decent range out of them (700-1000kms generally), and they work predictably through their lifespan over a wide range of terrain. Seem to offer a nice balance between all the compromises.
Personally I'd be more inclined to pull the tyre and flip it than spend time with a knobby knife.. but that's just me! And I don't often bother flipping a tyre without reason.
Racing is a different animal. I'd take performance and terrain into account and use the best match you can - and start with a freshy.
I also found when I was slower I used to used to wear the rears much quicker than the fronts. These days I find the front gets worked over equally as hard. Not a lot of flex in the forward direction, but working the side lugs in the corners and the forces it experiences under brakes definitely take their toll on fronts. Likely also spend less time unintentionally spinning the back tyre, and more time finding traction with it.
I've use Dunlop MX51 rears pretty much exclusively on the last couple bikes. I can get them at decent prices. I can get decent range out of them (700-1000kms generally), and they work predictably through their lifespan over a wide range of terrain. Seem to offer a nice balance between all the compromises.
Personally I'd be more inclined to pull the tyre and flip it than spend time with a knobby knife.. but that's just me! And I don't often bother flipping a tyre without reason.
Racing is a different animal. I'd take performance and terrain into account and use the best match you can - and start with a freshy.
I also found when I was slower I used to used to wear the rears much quicker than the fronts. These days I find the front gets worked over equally as hard. Not a lot of flex in the forward direction, but working the side lugs in the corners and the forces it experiences under brakes definitely take their toll on fronts. Likely also spend less time unintentionally spinning the back tyre, and more time finding traction with it.
If you are the kind that likes to flip the rear tire to get more life out of it; and I'm deff that kind; do it sooner then later, say after the 3rd or 4th ride.The key is flipping the tire soon enough that you still have some braking edge left on the knobs.
