Idle REALLY high after carb / PV clean

SingleTrackMind

New member
OK guys, I just cleaned my carb and set the float level because the bike has been sitting for 6 months. I decided to clean the power valve and check the tension. The linkage sticks a little at top end. But I didn't have a gasket set to pull and check it. Long story short, after reassembly the bike starts right up but doesn't idle. The RPMs just go very high and that's it.

I checked the cable and made sure it wasn't out of it's seat or pinched. I was going to check it out again after work tonight but thought I would ask the forum if anybody might have any ideas.

The carb was pissing fuel. So I bent the tab slightly and pulled the jets, cleaned everything and put it back together. if the float level is too high would it have a high idle? Secondly, is it possible to put the PV in 180 degrees off and if I did would that cause my high RPM idle?
 
Was just in the garage messing with it. I kicked it over and it wouldn't shut off. I turned the gas off, kill switch wouldn't work, the key didn't shut it off and get this... I pulled the spark plug wire off and it kept running. WTF? Somethings really not right. Guess I better pull the pipe and check the PV. Doesn't sound like carb to me.
 
I would check the little plastic bushing that the carb return spring. There is a notch in the bushing that needs to slide into the retaining bolt that hold the needle in place.

Is the slide seated properly?

Did you mess with the idle adjustment screw?

As for the kill switch....sounds like a wire problem, recheck all your connections and make sure it is properly grounded.

As for turning off the gas, it would need to suck the line, filter (if you have one) and bowl dry before it died.

Hope that helps

Good luck
 
Its not uncommon for the kill switch to struggle to stop an engine thats running away. Was the bike up to temp when it did this? I just read your PV thread also, and tbh I'd say its very unlikely that the PV is at play here. Even if it sticks wide open it won't cause the bike to run away.. it will just sound rattly and have no power at all off the bottom.

Seeing that you've also had the carb apart (out of the bike), that is where you want to be looking. Air leaks, or a hanging slide. As Rick suggested make sure the slide cable is located in the groove or notch in the slide, and that the plastic ring is also indexed to slide in properly. Make sure the carb is fitted well and no major air leaks at either side of the carb. Both boots on properly.
 
Its not uncommon for the kill switch to struggle to stop an engine thats running away. Was the bike up to temp when it did this? I just read your PV thread also, and tbh I'd say its very unlikely that the PV is at play here. Even if it sticks wide open it won't cause the bike to run away.. it will just sound rattly and have no power at all off the bottom.

Seeing that you've also had the carb apart (out of the bike), that is where you want to be looking. Air leaks, or a hanging slide. As Rick suggested make sure the slide cable is located in the groove or notch in the slide, and that the plastic ring is also indexed to slide in properly. Make sure the carb is fitted well and no major air leaks at either side of the carb. Both boots on properly.


And check your throttle cable has freeplay .
 
Its not uncommon for the kill switch to struggle to stop an engine thats running away. Was the bike up to temp when it did this? I just read your PV thread also, and tbh I'd say its very unlikely that the PV is at play here. Even if it sticks wide open it won't cause the bike to run away.. it will just sound rattly and have no power at all off the bottom.
What happens is you get a 'glow plug' effect and it matters not if there is spark, that happens on trials bikes quite frequently. 2 options Step on the rear brake and let the clutch OR grab a rag (protect your hand) and plug the exhaust, it will choke itself down
 
As mentioned, I'd double check the cable. It can come out of it's seat underneath the rubber boot at the throttle end. Everything looks normal so you wouldn't expect anything. It's a good idea to put a zip tie around the boot once it's seated properly to prevent a branch or mishandling during loading/unloading from causing it to come out again.
With the idle screw backed right off, you should have a positive "clunk" when the throttle returns and the slide hits rock bottom. If you put your hand on the carb, you can actually feel it. Good luck...
 
As mentioned, I'd double check the cable. It can come out of it's seat underneath the rubber boot at the throttle end. Everything looks normal so you wouldn't expect anything. It's a good idea to put a zip tie around the boot once it's seated properly to prevent a branch or mishandling during loading/unloading from causing it to come out again.
With the idle screw backed right off, you should have a positive "clunk" when the throttle returns and the slide hits rock bottom. If you put your hand on the carb, you can actually feel it. Good luck...

I actually prefer to use the motion pro threaded cables (T3 range), but short of that always tie wire to lock the cable to the bars and carb. The consequences of an end pulling out at either end, at the wrong time are too much, and are well documented in the pumpkin world.
 
Thanks for all your suggestions guys. After I pulled the carb the throttle cable appeared to be seated. I messed with it a little, pulled the bowl, shot some carb cleaner through the jets, etc. When I reassembled it I paid special attention to the carb cable and I'm about 99% certain that the metal tube with the angle wasn't seated all the way because it took a bit to get it seated. Complete newbie move on my part. Thanks again for taking the time to comment.

Had a great day of riding. Bike is running well except the bottom end seems almost non existent. I do have a crushed pipe from a failed log crossing attempt so I'm going to start there before I start messing with my jetting / clip settings.

Thanks again guys.
 
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