Intro and 2003 MC205 conversion to New England woods machine

SideshowBob

New member
First post!
I am currently tearing down my 2003 Gas Gas MC250 that I got on the very cheap last fall. Craigslist ftw.

I am currently in the process of getting the suspension off to go to Factory Connection and getting everything apart to fix little issues here and there. My last experience in full tear down was my KDX200R and that bike was def in better shape than the Gasser is.

On the slate (and in the budget)-
-FC suspension service and valve
-New fluids (brakes and tranny)
-New chain and sprockets
-Some rollers for the beat-up chain guide
-Carb cleaning and re-jetting (sounds like I am prolly gonna new some new parts there)
-new plug (multiple for jetting)
-new bearings for rear linkage? (potential)


Anywho, I have the bike mostly apart. However, my Triple Clamp Bolts are frozen, 4 of 10 of them I can't get to budge. Just three on one side on the bottom, the others are all freed.

In the process one of my hex sockets snapped clean off in the head of one of the bolts. Doh! I started looking around, are the MC triple clamps all the same even though I have the Ohlins suspension?

Anyways, look forward to posting and using some of the resources of this forum. Plan is to make the bike a reliable fast woods bike.

Pics-
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Hi Bob,

Welcome over here. I'm sorry you didn't get the 3-clamp bolts out.

Ed
 
Tis' ok I am determined and slightly dumb. And I can always hammer on the 1985 XT350 :lol:

I did notice there seems to be quite a few crossover users.
 
I had a similar problem with one set of forks two bolts sheared and the others were real tight,
The sheared bolts i drilled out and fitted stainless steel inserts (helicoils)
the tight ones i warmed up the triple clamps (i used oxy acetlene) but you need to be very carefull else you will end up with a pile of molten ali on the floor, The other option is to put the clamps in an oven to heat up then attempt to undo the bolts.

:)
 
I have an 03 EC 250 and the WP 43mm forks, while taking off the lower triple bolts, I also had some issues. They were pretty tough to remove, once removed, I noticed a single ring of threads on each bolt.
I was able to unscrew the thread, after that I bought a large container of antisieze.
Needless to say I've been going crazy with this stuff!

BTW You will want to replace your fuel line, filter and air lines from your carb. I'm using the yellow Tygon air lines.
While messing with one of the lines, it broke off in my hand and they looked in better shape than yours.
 
For the seized triple clamp bolts, make sure you DON'T take them out 1 at a time. For best results loosen them all evenly 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time (the ones that are next to each other) otherwise it leaves so much pressure on the remaining screw(s) that they will feel seized. So hopefully yours aren't seized. Run the removed bolts back in and tighten them up then see if the "seized" ones will come out. I'm unsure if other triple clamps are the same as the Ohlins. WP's and Zokes share the same top clamp, not sure of the bottom and I'm unsure where the Ohlins fits in. Good luck.
btw, try not to damage the bolts if they are the 7mm hex head. You can't buy them from hardare stores!
 
I'll second jostby's suggestion about cracking them all loose a little bit etc. The same logic applies when re-torquing the triples. You have to do it in steps 'cuz the first one you tighten will always loosen when you get up on the second, etc...

You might know all this already but ...

No one mentioned an impact so I will. :D

If no air impact every shadetree mechanic oughta have a hand impact. The hit with a hammer type. The quick snap turn of the hammer blow will crack stuff loose much easier than a slow steady pressure from a wrench.

But before hitting with an impact do as others have suggested and apply a good amount of heat and penetrating oil. In addition to expanding the triple, the heat seems to help the pen oil suck in too. Let 'em soak for a good while before a whack with the impact.

As far as a MC for the woods... here are a couple things I found with my '05 MC 250. I'm an old MX'er (real old) and kind of a noob to this real tight enduro stuff so it may not necessarily apply at whatever your skill level might be.

- The "hit" was crazy. The first thing I did after firing 'er up was loop it in the back yard testing "loftability." :o I put on a 12oz. flywheel weight, a G2 throttle with the "slow" cam, went with Pobits recommended jetting for smooth power. 178 main, 42 pilot, CCK needle clip 3. My buddy with an '04 EC 250 still thinks my MC has "angry" power delivery but I think it's fine now.

-The suspension was way stiff but I see you are going to take care of that. Good move. Those Ohlins should be sweet.
 
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Get yourself some frame protectors for near the footpegs - thay are black and run a long way up the frame. They will stop further paint wear but also will look a lot smarter.

Welcome to the club.
 
BTW You will want to replace your fuel line, filter and air lines from your carb. I'm using the yellow Tygon air lines.
While messing with one of the lines, it broke off in my hand and they looked in better shape than yours.

Where'd you get those (tygon)?

- The "hit" was crazy. The first thing I did after firing 'er up was loop it in the back yard testing "loftability." :o I put on a 12oz. flywheel weight, a G2 throttle with the "slow" cam, went with Pobits recommended jetting for smooth power. 178 main, 42 pilot, CCK needle clip 3. My buddy with an '04 EC 250 still thinks my MC has "angry" power delivery but I think it's fine now.

Thanks for the tip on the jetting. What is a CCK needle? Is Pobits a member or a store? Please excuse the noobiness of these questions.

I need to do a flywheel weight as well, what brand did you use?

I was fine on the bike, but I was pretty cautious. It's also jetted all wrong so when I get it right it's gonna be scarier.

Get yourself some frame protectors for near the footpegs - thay are black and run a long way up the frame. They will stop further paint wear but also will look a lot smarter.

Welcome to the club.

Thanks!
 
Poboit is a member on the site.

The CCK needle can be purchased from a dealer. I think Ron at RB Designs (sponsor) stocks them, but I'd imagine they might have them a any shop. You just need to talk to someone that is smart enough to know the needles by something other than microfiche.
 
For the flywheel weight you can get one from Gofasters or just get one stright from Steahly.

Great job on fixing things before just ridding the bike for a while just waiting for things to fail.
 
It was harder than you'd think to find Tygon tubing for gas line and carb vents etc. I eventually found it at a hobby shop that had parts for RC airplane and such. There is also a karting shop in town that had some kinda cheaper susbstitue, I think it was called Excelon, but it is not as flexible as Tygon. Tygon is and remains very flexible.

I got my CCK needle and jets from Sudco, ordered it over the phone because their online catalog is a disaster... I think they had a minimum order requirement and jets come in 4 packs so not the best way to get single jets. Any decent shop should be able to order a CCK if they don't stock 'em.

I don't even know what "brand" my flywheel weight is. I bought it used off someone here on Buy/Sell board...
 
Try getting Tygon from a hardware store, a small engine or chain saw dealer might also have them.
Or your local lawn mower shop might also carry it.
They might not even know what the type of hose is and still carry it.
It is marked on the box and the hose line itself. I've also used a blue Urathane hose for the fuel line.
BTW My line routing is stock, going through the airbox is a better route!

You can see a picture of what the stock setup will look like in the photo gallery.








Where'd you get those (tygon)?



Thanks for the tip on the jetting. What is a CCK needle? Is Pobits a member or a store? Please excuse the noobiness of these questions.

I need to do a flywheel weight as well, what brand did you use?

I was fine on the bike, but I was pretty cautious. It's also jetted all wrong so when I get it right it's gonna be scarier.



Thanks!
 
Update-

Bike is all the way back together. I posted my new jetting in the jetting thread.

One outstanding issue- I bought a new subframe from Go Fasters and the seat won't bolt up to the subframe, so I am taking it to a local shop I trust today or tomorrow to get it fixed so the seat will bolt up.

However, I can still ride it as the seat fits rather snugly without the bolts.

Holy SHIT! This thing is super quick with the new jetting and the 13/50 sprocket combo. On top of that the newly revalved Ohlins suspension feels fantastic!!! Can't wait to get the seat fix so I can really spend some time on it!
 
After riding the bike for about an hour and a half yesterday afternoon, all I can say is wow!

Handling is awesome, power is now really good although I still have a little more jetting to do (main might need to come down to 178 or 175).

I am really impressed by the bikes turning and handling, def the best handling frame I have ever owned. Hopefully I'll be able to control the power in the woods, it's not too bad but it is a little quick on the throttle. The suspension done by factory connection is fantastic.
 
Finally got 4 good solid hours of hard trail riding at my local club. Bike felt fantastic. I was able to get it to speed and really run it out. Handles really well, easy to get through woods and confidence insipring in the rock covered whoops and ugly woods. Power was too sudden though, and it stalls a little too easily. Also the brakes could be a shade better. Newly done fork was leaking at end of day, so I packed that up to send it out to FC so they can look into it :confused:

Alright. So new list of things to do-

Shave some off width bars and fix my handguards
Install Flywheel wieght
Install PV Cover
Pipe and radiator guards
 
Power was too sudden though, and it stalls a little too easily.

It sounds like you have pretty much the same reaction to the MC that I had with mine. The jetting, flywheel weight and slow G2 throttle cam I mentioned above resolved the same two issues for me. It still hits plenty hard when you want it to.

Also the brakes could be a shade better.

Too grabby or not enough?
My fronts will put me over the bars in an instant if I'm not careful and the backs also lock up easily. I just can't imagine needing more brakes. On recommendations from other members here I have a set of "red" EBC carbon pads here to try but I've been buried with work and haven't got to give them a try yet. Supposedly less grabby.

I had a problem with overheating my rear to the point of NO rear brake. I had to cut a bit off the clevis bolt to get more freeplay in the brake lever. I also changed the fluid out and bled the heck out of it. I have not had the brake fade recur. I still need to figure some kind of stop to keep the thing in a lower position so I don't have to "ride" it all the time, but the increased freeplay seems to have worked for now.
 
It sounds like you have pretty much the same reaction to the MC that I had with mine. The jetting, flywheel weight and slow G2 throttle cam I mentioned above resolved the same two issues for me. It still hits plenty hard when you want it to.

Didn't order the G2 yet, but depending on how the FW and PV Cover help I might.

I can't find your jetting, what are you running?

How many oz's did you go to for FW weight?

Too grabby or not enough?
My fronts will put me over the bars in an instant if I'm not careful and the backs also lock up easily. I just can't imagine needing more brakes. On recommendations from other members here I have a set of "red" EBC carbon pads here to try but I've been buried with work and haven't got to give them a try yet. Supposedly less grabby.

Plenty grabby, just feel the lever effort is a little too high. Might just be cause my arms are weak from years of not riding. :o Can't remember what pads I just put on. DP maybe?
 
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