Kill switch issues - better one to use?

[liv2day]

I read through the search results and found some folks replaced their kill switch with an aftermarket unit. Before doing that, want to check and see if anyone else tried replacing the spring with a stiffer piece.

It's an '11 EC200 and the kill switch is actually the horn (which doesn't make sense, but I guess it's a result of being road legal in some areas). The bike doesn't have a horn.

Anyway, I found out the hard way during a ride two days ago that the kill switch wasn't disengaging; though I did relearn a valuable lesson to check the simple things before going deep (after checking plug and several other potential areas...lol).

I ended up pulling the whole thing apart, including the wires. In retrospect, that was stupid as I could have simply pulled the brass plate out of the switch to break contact.

So, I need to grind it down and re-solder, but thought I'd check for any other ideas before I did that. If there's a stronger spring for the return, that would be easier than getting a new switch wired in and attached to the bars.

Thanks

 

[Coop]

Kill switches are cheap. I would just replace it instead of messing with a faulty one.

I have my bike dual sported and I am using a Sicass key switch but any two wire kill switch will work.

 

[Jakobi]

Every gasser I bought has come with a second kill switch which I have mounted to the bars. First one I didn't even bother connecting the button on the lighting block.

 

[Leo]

I like the XR200 units (with electric starter button and engine stop in one unit)

I wire the engine stop on the XR electric starter button and map switch on the XR engine stop switch witch give me an cleaner handlebar.

 

[Vindicator]

I need a little help from you guys with the kill switch . My former kill switch/lights/turn signal module suffered a significant setback during one of my rides. It now sleeps with the fishes
When bought the bike GG included a simplified racing wiring kit (kill switch & light switch) that I think it's similar to what US and others have as default setup and I'm in the process installing it. But I have a small problem, I can't seem to find the corresponding socket match for the kill switch. Could any one shed some light on where to plug it in ?

The only electrical knowledge I have is how to to use a light switch and that touching wires with bare hands might not be a good idea . Is the GREEN wire "earth" ? Where do I attach it ? On the front of the steering column like in this pic:

What about the b/w connector ? I don't seem to find a proper connector for it , could someone please let me know ?

 

[adv rider]

Kill switch

I have a couple o.e.m. Honda cr kill switches, 2 wire.new in package.if you need one, $10 shipped. You would probably get in 2 days .

 

[Coop]

I need a little help from you guys with the kill switch . My former kill switch/lights/turn signal module suffered a significant setback during one of my rides. It now sleeps with the fishes
When bought the bike GG included a simplified racing wiring kit (kill switch & light switch) that I think it's similar to what US and others have as default setup and I'm in the process installing it. But I have a small problem, I can't seem to find the corresponding socket match for the kill switch. Could any one shed some light on where to plug it in ?

The only electrical knowledge I have is how to to use a light switch and that touching wires with bare hands might not be a good idea . Is the GREEN wire "earth" ? Where do I attach it ? On the front of the steering column like in this pic:

What about the b/w connector ? I don't seem to find a proper connector for it , could someone please let me know ?

The green eyelet and black/white wire attach on the right side under the tank and radiator shroud. You'll see the b/w female connector and the green eyelet uses one of the coil screws.

 

[Zman]

The two wire kill switches are the best way to go. My godson was mudding last summer and his engine "ran away" (over reved on its own) and he could not kill the engine with a single wire kill switch because he was getting shocked from the single wire kill button. I guess since he was soaking wet, he was an alternate return path for the kill button circuit because of the increased electrical resistance between the anodized handlebar and the ignition coil. A two wire kill switch eliminates this issue.

He decided to pull the fuel line which did eventually killed it but only after it took out the lower connecting rod bearing. We never found a smoking gun for the over rev condition. The crank seals looked ok and the intake boot were intact but we replaced both anyway.

 

[liv2day]

I have a couple o.e.m. Honda cr kill switches, 2 wire.new in package.if you need one, $10 shipped. You would probably get in 2 days .

Thanks for the offer, I should have posted the solution I went with (oops). I pulled everything apart again and re-soldered the wires to the contacts. The main issue ended up being the actual button (ie horn/kill switch) was getting hung up in the housing. I cleaned everything out and then gently filed the sides down with my Dremel. Put the spring back in and the movement was much better - shouldn't get hung up again after depressing the switch.

My guess is a rocker type switch would probably be a little more robust, but reusing the stock bits keeps it cleaner.

Sounds like vindicator might need one of your switches though - wouldn't want to risk the motor because she couldn't be shut off

 

[Vindicator]

Thank you all, I'll search for it under the tank and hopefully GG engineers will not let me down

When you guys mention the XR kill switch are you referring to this one:

or this one:

 

[Leo]

This one:

 

[Vindicator]

Thanks !