LHRB went and did it!

[Darkside]

For me, the trick was the pedal master cylinder. forget what the instructions say. I know the o ring on the bottom of the sleeve is supposed to seal off the outer section with the window, but this worked for me. put a rag on the floor below the mc. remove the sleeve, fill the mc. now insert the sleeve so there is no air on either side of the sleeve. make sure there is no air in the mc reservior and fluid is pouring out the top and sides as you screw in the sleeve. now fasten the lines and back bleed to fill the handlebar mc. try that

 

[desertgasser300]

I think I got it. You really have to shake rattle and roll this lever to get the tiny bubbles out of it. After 45 min. I was still getting the samllest bubbles out of it. but, the lever is nice and tight now. I will do a trail test sunday morning to see if it has any stopping power?

 

[Moto7man]

Good luck! Give us an update after the ride.

 

[StuJohnson]

I think I got it. You really have to shake rattle and roll this lever to get the tiny bubbles out of it. After 45 min. I was still getting the samllest bubbles out of it. but, the lever is nice and tight now. I will do a trail test sunday morning to see if it has any stopping power?

Wow. Thought you gave up....?

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk

 

[desertgasser300]

Well it's better then it was. Stopping power at trail speed is acceptable, I do however want to keep stomping on the foot lever. Especially on trails I know and going over obstacles that you know require some body positioning when you use the brake. One thing for me is I gotta go full in with it, meaning I would have to remove the clutch lever and get it outta the way. I keep grabbing the clutch wanting to brake and I nearly got broke!!!

I will really need some time on this learning to modulate the LHRB, I kept pulling it in like it was a clutch. I'll keep working at it. I do like your Brembo caliper idea Stu, but i will have to get that E-start sorted out first before moving on to the brake conversion.

 

[firffighter]

It can be a tough transition. That's why I just went all in by removing the brake pedal and clutch.

I will say, again, that with my LHRB I literally have can lock up the rear with 1 finger with very little pressure.

Keep at it though, it's worth it!

 

[desertgasser300]

Well after about one year of using the Rekluse LHRB two days ago the compression fitting and hose blew out of the master cylinder. I wasn't riding only doing maintenance on the bike when I grabbed the lever and gave it a squeeze, and whoosh I was covered in brake fluid. This was just the excuse I needed to use the clutch master from my wifes bike and remove the rear brake cylinder and brake pedal. A trip to a local hose shop and they made a steel braided line for me while I waited. Cool thing I got to pick my color of choice. It measured 72" took 30 minutes to install and bleed and feels great. The Rekluse LHRB is mediocre and not for someone who wish's to remove the clutch lever and rear brake pedal. It is a great supplement to the oem set up. In the long run Rekluse needs a stronger LHRB then what they currently have. Just my opinion.

 

[Moto7man]

The new line looks nice, very clean setup.

 

[Dirt Dud]

Ok so I have installed a recluse in my 200 and am reading this info and want to install a LHRB on my bike , But some of you say that the Recluse is not all that great ? Is there an alternatetive out there n should I invest in a steel braided hose rite away ?

 

[gasser]

I've been thinking seriously about adding a LHRB. Please correct me if I'm wrong but the only need for the sleeve is to keep the window from blowing out on latter model nissan master cylinders when retaining the foot brake.
When using the foot brake won't the pressure back up into the LHRB master?
Will the bicycle master cylinders ( like rekulse uses) be adequate if used as the only rear brake mc?
Can the stock mc (Ajp) be easily converted to use brake fluid?