LTR Power valve cover

skid jackson

New member
Me likes!!!
Power right off the bottom. I think it made the bike a little easier to ride. like it makes the power band a little bit wider/smoother. Easier getting through the rocks and it seemed to make the carberation better off the bottom too. Don't know if it should but the bike definitely ran cleaner off the bottom then before. What exactly does this thing do any way??
 
Me likes!!!
Power right off the bottom. I think it made the bike a little easier to ride. like it makes the power band a little bit wider/smoother. Easier getting through the rocks and it seemed to make the carberation better off the bottom too. Don't know if it should but the bike definitely ran cleaner off the bottom then before. What exactly does this thing do any way??

Yep exactly what it was made for.:D
 
When the PV is closed at low RPM, the chamber is open to the port through the left drum valve. This changes the tuning of the system, like having a longer header section on the pipe. When the PV opens at higher RPM the chamber closes and is out of the equation.

The effect you feel has a lot to do with what pipe you run with it. I notice it more with the GG pipe than with the FMF, which is more of a low/mid pipe anyway. So, the GG pipe with the LTR cover is a win/win setup!
 
look this...

http://www.2tracing.it/public/SiTE/index.php?tit=Racing%20Parts&m=97&acts=|Veicoli|divGASGAS|
 
I bought a power valve cover from Go Fasters. I'm not sure it it is the LTR one or not, it came in a clear bag by itself with no markings on it.

I installed it on my '10 EC300. The cover fit perfectly and was machined very nice out of billet aluminum. Power delivery was stronger on the bottom and into the midrange as expected. I can loft the front wheel easier and most times without using the clutch at all. It makes the bike more "4 stroke like" coming out of corners. The transition into the hit was smoothed a bit, making the engine even more 4 stroke like. Top end was the same.

I give it 4.5 stars out of 5 total. Why?

The power valve came with no gasket, or screws that fit. The stock flanged M5 screws would not fit into the holes machined into the cover. I had to buy allen screws from the hardware store. The cover had a threaded hole on the bottom for a drain however no drain bung or hose was provided. I just plugged the hole with another short M5 bolt.

These small issues should not be a deal breaker, I paid $2 for the new bolts, and the stock gasket is a metal one so it was fine to use again.

I like it, it really woke up the engine on the low rpm range. Some people say that they didn't notice on the 300's, I can say I DID notice and I like it. The power is even more user friendly now.
 
Great on the 200.
No good on the 300 - made the throttle too insensitive and too much low down torque when very slippery.
 
I bought a power valve cover from Go Fasters. I'm not sure it it is the LTR one or not, it came in a clear bag by itself with no markings on it.

I installed it on my '10 EC300. The cover fit perfectly and was machined very nice out of billet aluminum. Power delivery was stronger on the bottom and into the midrange as expected. I can loft the front wheel easier and most times without using the clutch at all. It makes the bike more "4 stroke like" coming out of corners. The transition into the hit was smoothed a bit, making the engine even more 4 stroke like. Top end was the same.

I give it 4.5 stars out of 5 total. Why?

The power valve came with no gasket, or screws that fit. The stock flanged M5 screws would not fit into the holes machined into the cover. I had to buy allen screws from the hardware store. The cover had a threaded hole on the bottom for a drain however no drain bung or hose was provided. I just plugged the hole with another short M5 bolt.

These small issues should not be a deal breaker, I paid $2 for the new bolts, and the stock gasket is a metal one so it was fine to use again.

I like it, it really woke up the engine on the low rpm range. Some people say that they didn't notice on the 300's, I can say I DID notice and I like it. The power is even more user friendly now.

I would suggest you not plug the drain hole. Find a nipple and run a drain or the pv cover will fill with oil and the bike will start to run poorly.
 
The existing drain is still there on the cylinder head at the bottom left hand corner. I didn't plug this one, the one I plugged was the threaded M5 hole at the bottom of the new cover.

I'm not sure if I could find a metric M5 threaded nipple. I think that part should have be included with the cover.
 
Every so often I plan on taking the covers off and cleaning in there with carb cleaner to get the oil out. I can always just unbolt the little plug I screwed in there and hold a rag under it to catch the oil that will drip out.

I'm not sure if LTR made the cover as there is no name on it or the zip lock bag it came in. The machine work is beautiful, I just wish it came with the hardware. But it is no big deal to go get a few screws.
 
If a Powervalve cover that is a little bit bigger than stock is better, then how about a Powervalve cover that is a LOT bigger? Is there a point of dimishing returns?

For instance, what about adding a 1/2" spacer behind the cover?

Or what would happen if the valve was "open to the atmosphere" (I mean, what effect would it have on the powerband, beside the problem of introducing foreign material/dust!)

Jeff
 
I'll be able to tell you shortly ...

We're developing an inexpensive multi-volume system that will allow riders to tune power to their particular preference and bike set-up.
 
nice homemade preload

http://youtu.be/rlmqiaq9e5I

rlmqiaq9e5I
 
By adding spring tension you are slowing the rate at which the PV opens. Instead of having a fast transaction from low to mid, you can slow things down to tame the hit and achieve a smoother transition.
 
ok so more helpful on the 200/250 bikes then, my 300 is pretty smooth, but i imagine with something like that it would be like an electric bike!
 
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