Marzocchi 48 Cartridge Problem

[Jakobi]

Disregard what I posted above. That circlip stops the adjustment at max preload.

The actual ene piece is locked into the body by a circlip though (larger one). I'll try dig up some pics.

No issue running zero preload, but don't force it beyong firm. Don't use a 1/2" drive to crank on it

 

[Jakobi]

From here - http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11075&page=23

Here's a pic of the PFP/compression unit dismantled:

Did not dismantled the PFP piston, didn't appeal to my curiosity

Picture of the PFP adjuster that also holds the small steel ball and spring that are responsible for the compression clicks. As you can see they are full of grease and I could barely hear/feel the clicks. I cleaned everything and applied a good quantity of Motorex's Joker and the result was quite good, clicks are now evident

As above. Delicate threads. VERY!

 

[jpgibson]

once again..

Thanks jake!

 

[Sinphoto]

Marzocchi pfp problem

Here is a photo of the parts that need to be replaced ( circled in red). Sounds like it's gonna be expensive..

 

[Jakobi]

Do you have any more detailed shots? Has the cap and adjuster body both been damaged badly? It appears the washer is quite distored. No chance of cleaning it up and replacing the washer? I don't think you'll have a lot of luck sourcing individual parts, and won't want to know what they cost.

 

[twowheels]

Here is a photo of the parts that need to be replaced ( circled in red). Sounds like it's gonna be expensive..

I'll look into it and post some info.

 

[Blakelpd5]

Son of a .... same problem happened to me a month ago at 175 hrs, so I broke down the forks for a re spring, service, and to fix this problem on the left fork.

Got it all apart and noticed the circlip that holds the pfp adjuster was out of its groove and just floating around in there. Got it back in place and tried stressing the part to get it to come loose. All seemed well.

Fast forward 3 rides and the damn thing popped again. However I don't remember seeing that washer that maybe goes directly beneath the circlip? I'll have to break it down again and check it out. Thanks for posting detailed pics everyone. Finding a thread like this is gold!!

First pic is with it popped

Second is how it should look

 

[Neil E.]

It may not be applicable, but snap rings have a "sharp" side and a "smooth" side. It is beneficial to have the sharp side outward so the snap ring grips and is less likely to pop out. This is more important if the groove depth is shallow.

 

[Blakelpd5]

Thanks Neil! I'll double check that, as I had no idea some are like that, but it makes complete sense!

 

[3beejay3]

What is the process to remove the adjuster/spring and floating piston assembly?

This issue has happened to me twice in the last 2-3 years, both on the same fork. First time, the side of the groove for the snap ring broke away, allowing the adjuster to pop out of the top of the fork like in the OP's pics.
Because this is sold as an assembly and is quite $$$$$, we(myself and the service shop) repaired it by welding the snap ring groove and remachining it.

It has now broke again. I now have some replacement parts to fix the PFP, but am wondering at how much of a process it is to remove the adjuster/spring/floating piston assembly??
Does the whole fork have to come apart to facilitate removal, or can the PFP assembly be removed just by unscrewing it from the top of the fork?
The manual doesn't seem real clear on this to my eyes, as it only covers oil/seal/bushing replacement and a few other items.....

 

[Anders]

What is the process to remove the adjuster/spring and floating piston assembly?

It has now broke again. I now have some replacement parts to fix the PFP, but am wondering at how much of a process it is to remove the adjuster/spring/floating piston assembly??
Does the whole fork have to come apart to facilitate removal, or can the PFP assembly be removed just by unscrewing it from the top of the fork?
The manual doesn't seem real clear on this to my eyes, as it only covers oil/seal/bushing replacement and a few other items.....

You can take out the complete compression valve assembly with PFP, etc from the top. Just remove the leg from the triple clamps and unscrew it. I usually loosen the top triple clamp, loosen the compression valve assembly and then remove the fork leg. Easier that way than to clamp the complete leg in a vise.