maybe this is the cause of my issues? OMG
- Thread starter husley
- Start date
husley
Bronze Level Site Supporter
No! Quite the opposite. I am low-rpm/bogger riding 2nd gear single track. I doubt I have hit the rev limiter once.
Could this explain the complete lack of low-end and a slow to increase RPM/Rev when in neutral/clutch engaged?
I believe the cylinder is fine
TheLetterJ
New member
Yikes! I'd definitely have that cylinder measured for out of round or taper. What size is your piston (A, B, C) and does it match your cylinder?
husley
Bronze Level Site Supporter
Great questions that I do not yet have an answer for. I'm taking it to the local GG Dealer to look at.
What is "out of round" and "taper" ?
Jacob 'Berg
Member
Ouch, you definitely had some skirt slap happening there...You are lucky it did not grenade.
(F5)
Gold Level Site Supporter
My 200 piston was a wiseco and replaced with the same. Came out pristine.
Let's talk about airfilters as something is getting in there. The hiFlo and Twin-air seem good brands. Use real filter oil, not the pretend NoToil(not oil) stuff. Smear of grease on the mating surface and a careful check to feel if the filter is actually seated, not hung up which is easy to do.
Do get them to measure barrel. In the old days where steel liners wore a sloppy barrel would break piston skirts. I doubt with plated liner this could ever be a problem but might as well check in case there is some damage to shape of bore before it was plated.
Let's talk about airfilters as something is getting in there. The hiFlo and Twin-air seem good brands. Use real filter oil, not the pretend NoToil(not oil) stuff. Smear of grease on the mating surface and a careful check to feel if the filter is actually seated, not hung up which is easy to do.
Do get them to measure barrel. In the old days where steel liners wore a sloppy barrel would break piston skirts. I doubt with plated liner this could ever be a problem but might as well check in case there is some damage to shape of bore before it was plated.
cbutler
Member
That is some funny shit right there. I have used nothing but No Toil for the past 15 years with no problems.
husley
Bronze Level Site Supporter
Exhaust. Pic taken from the 12 o'clock postion
(F5)
Gold Level Site Supporter
Where I have never used it, so maybe I am guilty of being an internet expert spreading false rumours. However a mate has stopped using it as he noticed a lot of dirt getting on the wrong side of the intake. That's good enough for me to stick to real oil. However we do a lot of group trail rides and it gets pretty dusty in summer here. The first loop you get quite a cloud.
swazi_matt
Active member
I would suspect it is something else wrong. I have been only using notoil for the past 7 years+ with no issues and you can see how much gets trapped when you wash the filters. (I also check the inside of the boot for grit etc
I do believe that it will suck water in easier, something to do with petroleum products having hydrophobic properties (I have drowned my bike numerous times and when I did the first bottom end at almost 300 hours it could have done anothe 100 hours according to the mechanic)
husley
Bronze Level Site Supporter
motopsycho87
New member
Looks like out of round cylinder to me, or undersized piston.
Get a set of telescopic gauges (cheap and nasty is fine, they all do the same thing) Google how to use them and get a half decent vernier caliper.
Measure the cylinder front and back, and side to side, it should be +/-0.02mm of whatever your stated bore diameter is (I'm on the toilet so you can do your own homework), then measure your piston diameter front and back just above where the break is, this should be 0.1mm max (roughly) from your bore measurement. If it's greatly different you may have had a bad piston or cylinder. Replace with correct tolerance (0.06mm for forged) and it'll run great so long as...
... You warm your bike up slowly and carefully, cracked skirts come from piston rock, which occurs when you thrash a cold engine, as the piston and barrel warm up at different rates... And...
You use a decent fuel oil ratio, I'm old school, not one study has proved less 2 stroke oil is better than more, EVER! Get that jetting right, check your reeds, use a decent mix (200s rev, be kind to it, 32:1 or more) and report back!
Get a set of telescopic gauges (cheap and nasty is fine, they all do the same thing) Google how to use them and get a half decent vernier caliper.
Measure the cylinder front and back, and side to side, it should be +/-0.02mm of whatever your stated bore diameter is (I'm on the toilet so you can do your own homework), then measure your piston diameter front and back just above where the break is, this should be 0.1mm max (roughly) from your bore measurement. If it's greatly different you may have had a bad piston or cylinder. Replace with correct tolerance (0.06mm for forged) and it'll run great so long as...
... You warm your bike up slowly and carefully, cracked skirts come from piston rock, which occurs when you thrash a cold engine, as the piston and barrel warm up at different rates... And...
You use a decent fuel oil ratio, I'm old school, not one study has proved less 2 stroke oil is better than more, EVER! Get that jetting right, check your reeds, use a decent mix (200s rev, be kind to it, 32:1 or more) and report back!
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