This is a part that really needs an upgrade. The steel tip quickly wears the alloy tab/pivot, and it gets sloppy. It can wear thin to the point of cracking. New tip does nothing. I've been fixing them with the HTS2000 aluminum brazing rod, building up the tabs and re fitting the tips, but its a PIA and time consuming. I have a Hammerhead on the '12 but they suck to R&R unless you make a special bolt. They wear too, but still better than stock if you can find one.
Best shifter is all steel, as any pivot on a dirt bike should be. I'll take a few oz down low on the bike to eliminate this hassle. My bro had a WR250 Husky with a steel OEM shifter and it sold with the bike years later in decent shape.
While I'm at it, the brake pedal clevis pivot hole will wear and elongate quickly as well(again, steel pin/alloy pedal). If you don't check this often your pedal hits the frame before enough force goes to the brakes from the added play. This needs a steel bushing at the minimum. I'm adding a heim joint like a KTM and a quick no tools adjuster setup, stay tuned.