Need Some Help, PLEASE. Re: difficult terrain, slow riding on 99 EC300.

[flatout111]

So I am pretty new to enduro bikes and enduro riding as have generally always rode MX, just for fun. I enjoy enduro and rough terrain much more than the high speeds of MX and it also goes better with the fact I'm not 18 anymore.

So my question. I have a 1999 EC300. Love the bike and done a lot to bring it back to life with new plastic, graphics, etc. It chugs like a mule, even when in the wrong gear, up the hills and is a real workhorse. However I do have a question that I need help with. And forgive me if this is an elementary question as I am fairly new to all this.

When I ride in super technical, difficult, slow terrain I have to constantly give it gas to keep it running and stay on/off the clutch a lot. I stall it alot. And it may be me. or not be.

In contrast I have a friend who has a BMW G450X and with it you can just throw it in first or second gear and it never stalls, you can go as slow as you want to and you never have to use so much clutch. It just chugs along and no matter how slow and difficult the terrain it is it just never knocks off whether I am giving it gas or not.

Is this a four stroke vs two stroke issue? Or is there something that I can do to my EC300 to make it respond like the G450X where you throw it in a low gear and chug along? With my EC300, once I pop it into gear I must give it gas or it will knock off.

Again, this probably sounds like an idiotic question to the more experienced riders but I'm just learning and need some guidance.

I love my EC300 but the much maligned G450X is really a fun bike to ride in those slow, difficult terrain situations.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Brian VT]

- Your clutch may be dragging (try a different oil or replace worn clutch parts).
- Your carb. may need to be set up better.
- You might like an auto. clutch (but address previous issues first).

 

[pscook]

I had a lean bog this morning on my 2002 300. It ran great, loved the open throttle, but as soon as I went from a closed throttle corner and tried to open it up, I got a bog. I raised the needle one clip and it started really singing. No stalls, no hiccups.

It sounds like you need to set up the baseline carb settings as it sounds like a lean condition. Make sure you set the pilot jet and air screw, then muck about with the needle and main jet. I am pretty sure you can get it sorted pretty simply with adjustments, but you might need some jets to really get it going.

Make your way to the jetting section and have a read about setting your pilot and air screw. Great place to start to really learn how to tune the bike so you like it.

 

[Jakobi]

Clutch drag will play a part, and even does in some situations on newer models too. Jetting plays a big part on how easily it wants to flame out. Too rich and it'll stall every time you close the throttle. The float height can also be responsible for contributing towards this. The forward lean of the carb coupled with some hard braking or downhill action makes it more of an issue.

 

[flatout111]

Thanks for the input guys. Keep it coming. I appreciate it.

 

[Cberg]

X2 on the lean condition. I had the same issue with my 300 would stall constantly, changed the needle, larger pilot and main jet adjusted the air screw and now it won't stall even when the motor is barely spinning. Bottom end torque is awesome!!

 

[Jakobi]

Oh.. Sleepy head here just had another thought I forgot to mention. What gearing are you running? Stock they run 13/48. Most people find 13/50 works a bit better for technical, and I think some with 250's even go as far as 13/52 just to give it some more snap.

 

[Jakobi]

X2 on the lean condition. I had the same issue with my 300 would stall constantly, changed the needle, larger pilot and main jet adjusted the air screw and now it won't stall even when the motor is barely spinning. Bottom end torque is awesome!!

With rich vs lean, generally a lean bike will continue to race or idle high when off the throttle, but will cut out and die when you open the throttle to try and make it go again. On the other hand, a richer setting off the bottom won't idle very well and be prone to stalling when you close the throttle or coast into corners. It'll burble a lot at light to moderate engine loads, but will chug like a tractor if you can keep a load on the engine and the throttle open.

Adding to this. A lean bike won't idle off choke until some time has passed and will exhibit the symptoms more when cold and appear to take a long time to warm up. A rich bike will just about start from cold with no choke and will be more prone to the stalling as it comes up to temp.

 

[Cberg]

I am not that knowledgable with jetting, Jakobi is one who is.
I do know that my bike did not run that great, had very little torque when climbing and would stall alot, and since I went to richer settings it now runs fantastic!!

 

[flatout111]

Since I am not the most mechanical person on the planet....and that's an understatement....how much would what you guys are referring to cost from my local bike shop? They mainly deal in street and motocross but I would think they could do what you guys are recommending.

 

[Jakobi]

Since its one of those things that will change with the seasons its best if you do a little research into it yourself. The jetting section covers pretty much all of it and any questions will be answered quickly. If you can handle a screw driver, you'll be ok changing the jets. The key is to make one change at a time and then evaluate. First things first would be familiarising yourself with the carb, giving it a clean, setting the float height, and finding out what jets are in there.

If you do decide to take it to a shop try and at least get someone reputable (and maybe a dyno).

 

[Brian VT]

....how much would what you guys are referring to cost from my local bike shop?

Start with the cheap and easy. Try running Shell Rotella 5-40 oil in the tranny. Make sure your clutch lever is adjusted properly and fluid is bled. Put in a fresh spark plug. Put in fresh gas. Clean the air filter and make sure it's seated properly. Make sure your wheels are turning freely.
If all those check out then you may have to mess with the clutch or jetting.

 

[bukwheat]

All good advice here, you sure won't go wrong with these guys. All the stuff that has been suggested is easily done by even the least mechanical type. You need to build your mechanical skills and diving into one issue at a time it will teach you some skills and instill confidence. For instance, replacing the clutch plates, once you get into the side cover, you see that there isn't any real "magic" going on it there.

Now, a different aspect of your problem. You are new to the game of "plonking" along. My secret to slow technical sections is listening to the engine "tone". I have had the good fortune to have a couple of bikes that were great for low end grunt. The best is my current 300. One thing I do is ride a gear high. This helps me stay out of trouble by, if perchance I accidently give it too much throttle, it doesn't hit the power band and jump out from under me. When I ride a gear high, I listen to the rpms, sometimes it get so low, I can just about count them without the fanning the clutch. I do keep a finger on the clutch lever just in case I need a quick rev or keep it from stalling but I try to stay out of the clutch all I can. This isn't something that comes to you overnite, you need to work on it AND your bike has got to be functioning up to standard.

After you go with all of the advice you've received from these guys and you are still having a stall problem, you might want to try a flywheel weight. Oh and one other thought, have you done a top end job on it recently? If you haven't, you may be low on compression and this can cause your stalling problem.

Good luck and let us know your progress.

 

[Cberg]

bukwheat makes some great points.

I also ride a gear high as much as possible , as mentioned it's not learned overnight and what I find is that it not only keeps me out of trouble when I accidently twist the throttle but I also find I ride faster, and more smooth when riding at lower revs, tires me out less too. And with the grunt of the 300, it doesn't take much to get on the pipe when needed..

Also as mentioned check out your gearing, when I first got my 300 I did not like the stock 13/48 gearing at all. I geared it down and it made a big difference for me.

 

[Brian VT]

...once I pop it into gear I must give it gas or it will knock off.

I believe this is his issue, not his riding technique.

 

[flatout111]

Thanks so much for all your help, guys. I will let you know my progress as I look into each suggestion.