New 2011 EC300

[erniebearskin]

Hi folks, I am picking up my new EC300 on Friday. Is there any common mechanical issues or minor maintenance items that I should make my dealer aware of to check for before picking up the machine? Thanks.

 

[Mazikeen]

I would go through the spokes right off, and continue to check them before every ride, I am still tweaking mine quite regularly. I am certain they will settle as the tensioning is becoming much less and this last run was down to just a few spokes on the rear and about double that on the front.

 

[erniebearskin]

Yikes, whats up w that? I have nver had to tighten spoken on my last few bikes.

Thanks for that, I will be checking spokes regularly.

 

[mblazer11]

On Brand new bikes you need to snug them up after the first few rides, standard for any new spoke wheel.

 

[erniebearskin]

Thanks, anything else I should look for upon delivery?

 

[bukwheat]

Yeah, I have probably 40 to 50 hours on my bike and on the last ride I lost one spoke in the rear wheel right next to the rim lock. I checked all the others and they were nice and pingy snug. One thing that is nice on those spokes is they are straight pull and to replace them its just a matter of getting one and sliding it into position.

 

[Simmo737]

Get them to lock wire the throttle cable as you would all two 2s, I would ditch the cable choke and install a standard choke, you will probably find the rear brake lever is too high stock and needs the clevis thread cut to lower it. They are well greased from the factory, the lithium grease used at the factory is GRO white grease if you want to keep using it.

They are good out of the box.

 

[MJC]

I'll list the parts that have flatout failed due to the manufacture on my
11' xc 250 Six Day's. You can decide what you want to replace before it potentially happens to you. I'll list them in the order that they happened and what I did to fix the problem.

1- broke footpeg. Replaced with late model Yamaha YZF footpegs.

2- kick starter failed. On the starting of a H/S race. replaced with a kick starter from an 11' yz 250 2t.

3-exhaust pipe split open right up the seam. It was about an 1.5"- 2" open in some spots. This was on the stainless steel pipe that came on the Six Day's model. Of course it happened 2 miles into a race. GasGas warranted it and I got an FMF Gnarly to replace it.

4-The cable choke failed, hung open, also during a race. Someone hit the lever while I was pitted for gas. It took me a minute to figure out what was wrong with the bike. replaced with a std pull choke.

5- Rear brake pedal bushing. Change it before it ruins your rear brake pedal. Checkpoint offroad offers a nice stainless replacement.

The rod from the rear master cylinder also needs to be cut in order to lower the brake pedal height.
Also, safty wire the pin that holds the rear brake pads or just put a 8mm hex head pin in it for a yzf and be done with it.

That's about it as far as parts failing goes. Like others have said watch the spokes, both the front and the rear, for a few rides. They will break in and you will not have to be tighten them as much.

 

[erniebearskin]

Thanks again.

 

[stainlesscycle]

I'll list the parts that have flatout failed due to the manufacture on my
11' xc 250 Six Day's. You can decide what you want to replace before it potentially happens to you. I'll list them in the order that they happened and what I did to fix the problem.

1- broke footpeg. Replaced with late model Yamaha YZF footpegs.

2- kick starter failed. On the starting of a H/S race. replaced with a kick starter from an 11' yz 250 2t.

3-exhaust pipe split open right up the seam. It was about an 1.5"- 2" open in some spots. This was on the stainless steel pipe that came on the Six Day's model. Of course it happened 2 miles into a race. GasGas warranted it and I got an FMF Gnarly to replace it.

4-The cable choke failed, hung open, also during a race. Someone hit the lever while I was pitted for gas. It took me a minute to figure out what was wrong with the bike. replaced with a std pull choke.

5- Rear brake pedal bushing. Change it before it ruins your rear brake pedal. Checkpoint offroad offers a nice stainless replacement.

The rod from the rear master cylinder also needs to be cut in order to lower the brake pedal height.
Also, safty wire the pin that holds the rear brake pads or just put a 8mm hex head pin in it for a yzf and be done with it.

That's about it as far as parts failing goes. Like others have said watch the spokes, both the front and the rear, for a few rides. They will break in and you will not have to be tighten them as much.

everything mentioned goes for all the gg models - aside from the exhaust issue - haven't seen that one before. pegs, spokes, and rear brake stuff is first thing to fix for sure though. make sure kickstarter bolt(s) are tight.

also, right away remove all the lower triple tree bolts. anti-seize them. then reinstall. it seems the middle one always seizes on all the bikes...

 

[Jakobi]

everything mentioned goes for all the gg models - aside from the exhaust issue - haven't seen that one before. pegs, spokes, and rear brake stuff is first thing to fix for sure though. make sure kickstarter bolt(s) are tight.

also, right away remove all the lower triple tree bolts. anti-seize them. then reinstall. it seems the middle one always seizes on all the bikes...

I'd even recommend removing the middle bolt, or the top and bottom (as recommended by most rep suspension tuners). Be sure not to over tighten these when re installing. As little torque as is needed.

Same same same as MJC for me too with exception to the pipe. My stock pegs still in tact but they're not strong. My kick starter managed to tear the teeth off the shaft. May have come loose at some point? Keep them lock tighted and snug! Also make sure you take up the tension on the kicker before booting it. Stab stab stab wears them out.

If its new ride it and break it in. Set up the ergos and suspension for feel and evaluate what you want from the engine fuelling wise. You'll be stoked with the purchase!

Here's a little link to an Australian dealer who has some nice set up tips (with pics) http://www.scottysdirtbikespares.com/gas-gas-set-up-tips/index.php

 

[erniebearskin]

Thanks again guys, this is exactly the info I am looking for.

 

[Jakobi]

Waiting for the ride report!

 

[erniebearskin]

Had first ride today, really happy with bike. Dont like the choke and accidently hit lever a couple of times so I will search options to fix. Brake lever height didnt seem to bother me. Coming off of a four stroke it had taken a few kM's to figure out the rpm ranges. I love the face splitting grin inducing hit when the pipe kicks in

Will probably leave on the mellow map for the first few rides. Also have it jetted rich for first few rides. Kind of pissed no paper manual. Ummmm think thats it.

Checked spokes and sure enough a couple have a dull thud instead of a nice ping.

2011 EC300E
EE rad guards
EE rotor guard
Hyde skid plate
Rekluse
KTM PHDS Handlebar system
Cut the bars 1/2 each end and put on some new pilow grips
Removed and permawired the keyswitch
JD jetkit

Pretty muddy where I am and I was riding solo, so still havent had a chance to get anything too ugly.

 

[Jakobi]

You can easily replace the cable choke with an OEM keihin. About $12 or so. Threads straight into the carb.

The bike will be a completely different animal once you jet it. The paper copy of the manual wouldn't be a help. Its very vague to say the least. Consider this site your workshop manual Nice report.