No spark ec300 2006

S

Sjoblom!

New member
Hi! I'm in a bit of hurry since I've signed up for a race this weekend.
During practice monday, it just died on me. No missfires,no hesitation before just completly died.
So, the spark is the issue. I started looking in to it yesterday. Wendt through all wireconnections, changed the plug, took the flywheel of and cleaned it.
No results, so i tried my friends ignition coil from a TM racing 250, and tadaa! Spark!
So i got a hold of a usel coil today. Mounted it, But Nope. No spark. Tried my friends TM coil again. No spark.

That tells me i probably have some wire that have gone bad somewhere. Right? Or could the cdi / stator flip out and internally have bad connection or something?

Electricals is'nt my best mechanic skill..
Regards Philip, sweden!
 
Check the ground connection where the coil is fixed to the frame. On my 06 200 it was quite rusty there.
Anders
Norway :-)

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This is pick-up or impulse coil ,check the gap between it and rotor's marker should be under 1 mm .And check the resistance i think should be around 100 Ohms .
 

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check the wire going from the coil to the spark plug. It screws into the plug cap and the coil. cut a half of an inch off and screw it back in.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, going to check it today.
Is it possible to meassure the voltage between the ground and the wire going to the ignitioncoil?
If i could get like 10-12v there, then i should be able to pinpoint the problem to the ignitioncoil, right? Or am i thinking wrong?
 
Don't know how easy it would be to measure the signal to the coil. Most likely it is just a short pulse.

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Time for an update, i got 102ohm and 14,5ohm on the coils so that is with in the range of the test values. I messured all the wires on the statorplate to see if they were any broken wires But they all were in good condition.

I tried to put a drilling machine on so i could messure the voltage output to the ignition coil But there were zero reaction. The killswitch was put out at the connectors.

Whats my next step?
 
No, I don't think so. I haven't really measured the ignition system myself so I'm not 100% certain. But you don't have a battery. And you have CDI ignition, so I would expect the voltages to the coil to be only a short pulse for each spark. If you have access to an ocsilloscope you could use that for measuring, but I doubt if you can read anything useful using a voltmeter.
If other know better, please correct me as I'm out on this ice here.

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Look at situation differently. Everything starts at the single winding on the stator that produces the ignition power. You need to confirm that this winding is creating power.

It goes something like this: single winding 30V, CDI output 300V, coil output 30,000V. If you get a good resistance reading on the impulse coil (flywheel pickup), it is probably fine. It should measure about 100 ohms on the red and green wires. Keep in mind that the kill button grounds out the initial 30V from the single winding, so any issue that grounds out the single winding means that the whole system fails to work.

The workshop manual calls the single winding the "exciter" and says it should measure 12.7 ohms. This is on the black/red and red/white wires. You should be able to connect an AC voltmeter to these wires and get a voltage reading when the engine is kicked over (wires disconnected). The same thing should happen with the wires connected. If not, there may be a short in the wiring. You then need to cut the harness open to look for defects.

If everything tests OK, then swapping out the ignition coil is next. After that you have to change out the CDI. In some cases the connector pins do not make good connections with the CDI terminals so you need to check that as well.

I am assuming you have already checked the plug, plug cap and high tension lead. Is the frame rusty at the engine mounts? This can prevent proper grounding the same as rusting at the ignition coil mount causes trouble.
 
Neil E. said:
Look at situation differently. Everything starts at the single winding on the stator that produces the ignition power. You need to confirm that this winding is creating power.

It goes something like this: single winding 30V, CDI output 300V, coil output 30,000V. If you get a good resistance reading on the impulse coil (flywheel pickup), it is probably fine. It should measure about 100 ohms on the red and green wires. Keep in mind that the kill button grounds out the initial 30V from the single winding, so any issue that grounds out the single winding means that the whole system fails to work.

The workshop manual calls the single winding the "exciter" and says it should measure 12.7 ohms. This is on the black/red and red/white wires. You should be able to connect an AC voltmeter to these wires and get a voltage reading when the engine is kicked over (wires disconnected). The same thing should happen with the wires connected. If not, there may be a short in the wiring. You then need to cut the harness open to look for defects.

If everything tests OK, then swapping out the ignition coil is next. After that you have to change out the CDI. In some cases the connector pins do not make good connections with the CDI terminals so you need to check that as well.

I am assuming you have already checked the plug, plug cap and high tension lead. Is the frame rusty at the engine mounts? This can prevent proper grounding the same as rusting at the ignition coil mount causes trouble.
Click to expand...


Hi! I Belive i get What you mean.
I messured the cables between the cdi connector and statorplate&flywheel pickup. Both the singlewinding and the pickup cables got good readings. So there should be No shortage in thoose cables.
When i ac messured the cables from the single winding i just got about 4-5v. That doesent seem enough? If you Say it should be 30v

Lets say the single winding works properly, and the pickup coil is broken. I should be getting full voltage any ways from the single winding anyways?
 
It's difficult to get a good voltage reading from the single winding. This is due to the rotating speed. Considering that the spark has to work at kickstarting speeds, a good kick with the plug out should show OK voltage. I've never tried to measure it. The 30V was just an example to show how the voltage steps up through the system.

The type of voltmeter also has an effect; auto ranging meters can be really slow to respond. I would expect a fixed range meter to show at least 15V when kicking. Usually getting some reading means it's working.
 
Keep in mind that the single winding has very fine wire so there are many turns of wire on the post. This is done to maximize voltage, but does not deliver much current. A meter that draws too much current may not show a high voltage. Voltmeters can also "average out" the AC reading and show less than you expect. Think of an AC sinewave; the peak voltage only exists for a short duration at the very top of the wave. This is where an oscilloscope can be handy since it can register fast enough to show the actual waveform.

Since you're getting 5-6 volts, assume it's OK and move on to the CDI. Most of the time electrical problems come from bad connections. Inspect all the pins with a strong magnifying lens.
 
I'll Continue my search for that beloved spark today! Hopefully I'll find the problem. Since i got spark all of a Sudden yesterday But then it dissapeard again I'm hoping for a bad wire somewhere..
 
I lost spark on my 2009 EC300.

The spark was there before I replaced the left crank seal. To my understanding, I have not touched anything else but the stator and spark plug lead during the service work.

Headlight does flash upon kicking the kick start.

Where to start digging?
 
The stator is probably OK. Recheck the connections. Unscrew the spark plug cap from the plug wire. Cut the wire a little bit shorter and reassemble. Try all the other suggestions in this topic. It is most likely a disturbed connection.
 
Is there a reliable way of checking the plug wire w/ a multimeter?

Since I bent it out of the way while installing the exhaust, I would think that the plug wire might be damaged at the coil end.

Where are the ground points(s) located? Are there more that those next to the coil?
 
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