No spark ec300 2006

[vtskier]

Check that the battery connections are tight. I had a loose battery connection and bike failed. I also had no spark when battery was disconnected completely.

 

[Mikeyx]

No battery in this model.

 

[Gasser Nate]

The source/exciter coil should put out at least 100 ac volts with a proper peak voltage adapter. The pick up/crank angle sensor between 4-10 volts.
Anything less on either will cause a weak/no spark situation.
Voltages are a much more reliable way to test.

 

[Anders]

Where are the ground points(s) located? Are there more that those next to the coil?

The ground conenctions that matter in this case, are the two screws that fixes the coil, and the point on the frame where they are fixed. This point on the frame has to be free of rust. And then we have the connection between the engine and the frame. Same thing there.

 

[Mikeyx]

Would someone explain me the function of the 'stop' button.

I mean, does it short or disconnect a wire, and which wire?

 

[Neil E.]

It usually grounds out one of the CDI terminals. Wire color can vary by year.

 

[Mikeyx]

I found reference values for resistances. Here's what I measured (having reset the multimeter down to zero), with the ref values in parentheses:

- Impulse coil: 114 ohm (80-120 ohm)
- Exciter coil: 17.2 ohm (10.2-15.2 ohm)
- Charge coil (yellow-earth): 0.72 ohm (0.54-0.80 ohm)
- Carge coil (white-yellow): 0.13 ohm ( 0.13-0.19 ohm)

Apparently, no 'defect' in the stator?


Is the plug wire supposed to have zero resistance?

 

[Gasser Nate]

What are the voltages? The exciter coil is out of range looking at those figures...

 

[Mikeyx]

You mean voltages while kicking the start?

 

[Anders]

Is the plug wire supposed to have zero resistance?

Yes, I would say so.

 

[Mikeyx]

Tested the voltages while kicking the starter, with no credible results. The pick-up leads gave 0.2V and the other 'overload'.

Put everything back together w/ a new HT lead, and now the bike is running. Don't ask me why.... To me the HT lead looks like copper wiring inside an insulator, and hence I have a hard time believing it would have gone bad while bending it out of the way when installing the exhaust.

Well, tomorrow is going to be a big day. The previous two runs I had last summer ended up in a melted piston and cracked cylinder.


If there is a good description on how the electrical system works, I'd like to hear about it.