Ohlins 888 cracked lower mount

[Jakobi]

So today I was about to put the shock back on the bike. Cleaning and greasing the bolts and checking how everything goes back together. Top mount in too easy! Line the bottom mount up with the linkage and getting ready to feed the bolt through and notice that there is a fracture/crack in the lower shock where the bolt secures. Any ideas what would have caused such a thing to happen? Best way to repair? I have no idea how to pull the shock down enough to replace the damaged part. Any idea how much I'd be looking at to have it repaired? Am I going to be running the TTX rear shock sooner than expected? Pics below (the crack is visible inside the threads too, so it has broken right through).

 

[GMP]

Any good suspension guy who can get Ohlins parts should be able to change that clevis. If you can take the shock apart yourself you just need a shaft holder. If I had to guess, I'd say that was cracked either by excessive torque, or by forcing the clevis over the rocker with one of the cup washers out of position, resting on the rocker not the oring. No evidence of impact on the lower edge. Ohlins USA used to have a kit with steel inserts to fix stripped clevis threads and strengthen the clevis. This clevis looks a little different though.

 

[twowheels]

Well that's enough to turn a man's mood sour

If I'm reading the Ohlins spec sheet right the shock shaft screws into the end bracket. You'd have to pull the shock shaft and disassemble the piston and valve stacks. Then you've got to clamp the shaft securely in a proper clamp (the shaft is hard coated but marring it would mean inevitable leaks later), heat the end to break the threadlock (but not melt the rebound adjuster bits) and turn the bracket off.

I might be inclined to send the photos to your importer and/or local Ohlins rep and see if they wouldn't just replace the shaft and rebound mechanism altogether. After all the bike is only ridden lightly every other Sunday

 

[moto9]

Good time to change the oil...no need to remove the piston or valving from the shaft but you will need the holder tool.

Two things,
1. You'll need a heat gun, they use a fair amount of locktite, a little tricky heating and not melt the rebound adj knob.

2. There's a pin that sits in the shaft, carefull you don't loose or damage it.

 

[swazi_matt]

Apart from finances being low after all the bling you have just fitted to your bike you could look at it as a forced opportunity to bling up your rear shock with either a revalve, racetech or ttx or at least get to learn about your shock internals

 

[Jakobi]

Great advice everyone! I don't feel confident delving into the inners of a shock just yet. Its probably not as hard as I expect but its definately into new waters (maybe over my head). I'd need someone to hold my hand through it so say the least.

Without pointing blame, the only other time the shock has been accessed and linkage lubed was with through the gas gas dealer, as part of the warranty conditions. Might have been the 6 month service, so based on that I might see if I can run it through the dealer via the importer.

I could send it out somewhere to be fixed up, but not sure what the time frames will be for turnaround. To have it serviced and revalved would be ace, but I honesty wouldn't know what to ask for. When running the Sachs forks the shock was the prime part of the equation.

The cup washers look in good shape, as did the bearing in the linkage where it joins.

Can anyone here confirm if the new spring I just purchased for the shock will fit the TTX?

 

[twowheels]

Great advice everyone! I don't feel confident delving into the inners of a shock just yet. Its probably not as hard as I expect but its definately into new waters (maybe over my head). I'd need someone to hold my hand through it so say the least.

We can get you through it ... and it's already broken anyway

 

[Jakobi]

The other thing is that I have the new forks and fresh top end on the bike. Has been pulled down for around 2 weeks now so really really excited to get it back together and go for a ride!!

 

[nambo-trev]

I'll confirm it for you Jake the answer is NO lol! I accidentally received a spring for a 888 and the inner diameter is too small to fit over the ttx shock body I'll post a pic for you

 

[Jakobi]

Grumble grumble.. Considering I just bought a brand new spring for the 888 I now feel more obliged to try and fix it first. If it had of been a clean swap it would have made TTX all that bit more enticing (read less painful). Haha!

Its the weekend here so not a lot I can do with anything. I'll make a few calls to try and get the 888 sorted on Monday.

Can someone give me some more in depth details on what I'll need to do to fix it. I'm guessing it'll need oil drained, gas drained, shaft holder tool, and heat. I wouldn't even know how to drain the oil or the gas, let alone how much to put back in, or where to get it regassed. I have a butane torch but I imagine thats a sure way to melt the adjuster knob.

 

[Jakobi]

I've passed the info on to the dealer who has forwarded it to the importer. I'm waiting patiently to hear back with an update. I personally still can't grasp how this would have happened. You'd imagine it would take significant over torquing to stress it enough to crack like that and wouldn't expect the factory or a dealer to go that hard on it.

I've done some back ground work on parts in the mean time. The cleavis is part number 01283-35. $60USD, however will have to be sourced direct from Sweden. ETA 4 - 6 weeks. I very much doubt they will have a spare one floating around Australia, and as Clay has indicated in another thread, even the shocks themselves are in short supply and being delayed. I'm not feeling very confident on a quick turn around short of Gas Gas Australia pulling a shock out of another bike. I would really appreciate their assistance in repairing the damaged one, but wouldn't expect them to replace a whole shock.

Checking TTX there are two part numbers listed GG1182 and GG1282, the later for the 2012 models. Can anyone here confirm if the 2012 model still uses the same size shock and same mounts with the new frame? I'm just trying to work out if the new product code is just for 2012 valving updates, or if there have been significant changes to other parts of the shock. I don't think I'll be riding for a month

 

[myrcrocks]

I've passed the info on to the dealer who has forwarded it to the importer. I'm waiting patiently to hear back with an update. I personally still can't grasp how this would have happened. You'd imagine it would take significant over torquing to stress it enough to crack like that and wouldn't expect the factory or a dealer to go that hard on it.

I've done some back ground work on parts in the mean time. The cleavis is part number 01283-35. $60USD, however will have to be sourced direct from Sweden. ETA 4 - 6 weeks. I very much doubt they will have a spare one floating around Australia, and as Clay has indicated in another thread, even the shocks themselves are in short supply and being delayed. I'm not feeling very confident on a quick turn around short of Gas Gas Australia pulling a shock out of another bike. I would really appreciate their assistance in repairing the damaged one, but wouldn't expect them to replace a whole shock.

Checking TTX there are two part numbers listed GG1182 and GG1282, the later for the 2012 models. Can anyone here confirm if the 2012 model still uses the same size shock and same mounts with the new frame? I'm just trying to work out if the new product code is just for 2012 valving updates, or if there have been significant changes to other parts of the shock. I don't think I'll be riding for a month

Honestly,
I would think that any Ohlins-qualified/certified suspension shop might have this part in stock... I mean the clevis must be an Ohlins part, not a GasGas part... Make some calls to some suspension shops... Maybe I'm wrong...

 

[NZ_EC300]

I just went through the same thing with my 06.
Ended up running it cracked for another 6 rides until the new clevis arrived.
All I did was put a thinned down nut on the back side of the bolt (gotta be careful that it clears the dogbones) to make sure the bolt couldnt back out.
The crack never spread or opened at all, so in the short term I'd say use it and just keep an eye on it.

 

[Jakobi]

myrcrocks - I have been checking with a certified Ohlins dealer. Result - Back order from Sweden.

NZ - If it has cracked when being torqued up, I've either been riding it like this since day one, or at least 6 months from when it was last pulled. If its cracked under load then it could have happened any time within the last 15 months so its probably fair to say its safe to use in the interim. I'd rather not though if I can avoid it.

 

[GMP]

Check here in the US, start with Ohlins USA.

 

[Jakobi]

Check here in the US, start with Ohlins USA.

Had checked with HardRacing who goes through Ohlins USA. twowheels has been kind enough to also check with Ohlins USA. I've contacted a suspension company here in Australia to see if they can check availability etc through Ohlins Aus. I'm not liking the odds though.

 

[Simmo737]

Shock treatment? If so you are using the best. That shock with what...150 hrs? Is in need of a service no matter what, while it's apart you should pay for a revalve and save the double handling, I am dead certain gasgas spec the valving, and the shock expert works in the sangria bar next to the lunch room..hic.

 

[moto9]

I was looking at the pics a second time and that can be repaired untill you get a new one.

I suggest first to v notch the crack on the bottom and sides then tig weld.
Grind the welds flush with a dremmel tool.
Last weld a strip across the bottom, clean up to fit.

 

[Jakobi]

Thats always an option too. Its not like its a load bearing part and should be repairable. Once again it comes down to finding someone who is capable to do the work

You are right as always Simmo. Terry Hays at Shock Treatment is who I emailed. We'll see what he says. Also agree with 160hrs it needs a service. As for the revalve what do I ask for? I have no real info to say the shock does this, doesn't do that.

 

[Simmo737]

I agree it's hard to know, but I would trust someone like terry to get it near spot on, use the form on his website, give him the spring rates you have, that you have ttx inserts, your riding weight, use the dbw ride grading for your ability, your most travelled terrain ( eg east coast hills, single track trail riding in sand, loam and clay with roots and rocks - pretty much what we've all got!!), your style of riding, what you dont like about your current setup ( e.g tiring, harsh over obstacles etc) what you do like (eg. gets better as you push it) let him know it all. He will have an idea what you will like, especially if he knows what you are running in the forks.