ohlins shock seal
- Thread starter liamthom
- Start date
I have the same problem with mine. Will be interested to hear what's recommended. I was of the opinion though that the gas in the shock would have to be released and then regassed once seal has been replaced and a special tool is needed to refill it.. So I'm interested to know if this is the case or not..
Jc
Jc
Jacob 'Berg
Member
It is my understanding that the Ohlins shocks are a pita to bleed properly and that special tools (vacuum pump) and knowledge are required to do it right. I had a reputable tuner service my shock and he still struggled with bleeding the shock.
The seal head may need to be replaced as well.
Try Coppersmith for the the seals and/or service, or contact Ohlins USA.
The seal head may need to be replaced as well.
Try Coppersmith for the the seals and/or service, or contact Ohlins USA.
liamthom
New member
I know you need to drain the nitrogen before service and the ohlins kit is expensive but motion pro makes a kit that i would pick up Part # 08-0075.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
The TTX is harder to bleed properly without a vacuum setup. The 888 shouldn't pose any significant issues bleeding by hand if you take your time.
You'll need the needle to discharge the N2 BEFORE commencing any work. Also make sure that all your clicker circuits are wide open before discharging.
They aren't really any different to any other shock to work on.
Few different methods to use when bleeding, but simplest is probably just filling the N2 ressie up, overflowing some oil as you drop the separator piston back in, bottom it out and then use the seal head fluid displacement to set the piston height.
You can either source just the seal, or the whole seal head. I've found depending on the state of the inner bushing, that it's almost just as cost effective and big time savings to just buy the whole seal head pre assembled.
Another thing to note, is that often the N2 pressure helps maintain the seal (pushes the lip against the shaft). Low pressures can cause leaking, as can damaged seals. Make sure you check the shaft well for burrs.
You'll need the needle to discharge the N2 BEFORE commencing any work. Also make sure that all your clicker circuits are wide open before discharging.
They aren't really any different to any other shock to work on.
Few different methods to use when bleeding, but simplest is probably just filling the N2 ressie up, overflowing some oil as you drop the separator piston back in, bottom it out and then use the seal head fluid displacement to set the piston height.
You can either source just the seal, or the whole seal head. I've found depending on the state of the inner bushing, that it's almost just as cost effective and big time savings to just buy the whole seal head pre assembled.
Another thing to note, is that often the N2 pressure helps maintain the seal (pushes the lip against the shaft). Low pressures can cause leaking, as can damaged seals. Make sure you check the shaft well for burrs.
Liamthom,
Not sure if you have the manual or not n not sure if the link is for the 888 exclusively but think it gives a general idea of what needs to be done. Hope the link works,
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&...ghGMAM&usg=AFQjCNGPz0wFGIi23qC_9Z2LfVia7LOPAA
Regards
JC
Not sure if you have the manual or not n not sure if the link is for the 888 exclusively but think it gives a general idea of what needs to be done. Hope the link works,
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&...ghGMAM&usg=AFQjCNGPz0wFGIi23qC_9Z2LfVia7LOPAA
Regards
JC
liamthom
New member
is that the only seal i need? is there anything else that should be replaced?
Zman
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Nice find! Thanks for sharing the manual!
I just got mine fixed for the 2nd time in 12 months. This time by a different tuner. He informed me the reason it leaked this time was because whoever fixed it last time didn't put enough oil in to keep the pressure on the seal that separated the oil and gas,this resulted in the seal eventually leaking.
So it pays to have someone that knows what they are doing..
So it pays to have someone that knows what they are doing..
Jakobi
Super Moderator
That doesn't really make sense.
The shock body holds a certain volume of oil, some of which is in the N2 ressie at full extension. The rest of the n2 ressie is filled with around 10 bar of nitrogen.
If the seal has been leaking, the oil volume drops in the main body and ressie. This means the dividing piston in the reservoir also moves back towards the body more, and the N2 now has a larger volume to act on.
If you lose enough oil or have air in the system is can cause the seal head in the shock body to pull back into the body which can cause some wear on the surfaces.
The seal lip definitely works better with pressure acting on it from the oil side, but the whole thing becomes a bit chicken and the egg. It's not easy to say if the previous tuner didn't bleed it properly, didn't set the floating piston height correctly, or if you've simply had a seal fail which has then thrown out everything else.
beat_thumper
New member
Can anyone provide me with links to the seals/ piston band/ seal head needed for an 06 ec300 ohlins shock? mine is leaking oil and i can only find parts for 2012 and newer.
Gasser Nate
New member
I usually go through ohlins directly. You will need the part number off the top of the shock body.
beat_thumper
New member
Ohlins website says to contact an authorised dealer so i did that but got this response "I would have these parts in stock, however under my agreement with Ohlin?s , any internal parts are not to be sold to a 3rd party. This is because in the past shocks and forks have been rebuilt by untrained people, resulting in failures and poor performance. This has led to the suspension getting a bad name, when in fact it has been poor workmanship"
