Power Valve definatly adjustable !!!

101racing

New member
For those of you who have been asking and wondering about the power valve timing adjustability , we have finally discovered what it takes.
We have been doing an on going search for the difference in power between an 06 DE 300 and a 08 EC 300. The 06 was bought used from a bank repo from a dealer. The 08 I bought new. We had the 08 before the 06 and when we got the 06 home and got it jetted for our altitude we realised it was a way different power delivery than the 08. We went for over a year trying to match port timing and compression only to make minor improvements to the 08. We finally realised that the rain sunshine switch was faulty and bipassed it at the CDI and that made a big difference but still didn't have the knarly off idle torque the 06 has. We started suspecting PV timing from our experience with KTM 300s. We ordered 2 sets of clutch cover gaskets along with water pump gaskets from Gofasters. We pulled the clutch side off of the 06 and discovered no shims behind the PV governor spring. This takes away preload and rate from the spring and allows it to open sooner and faster. We then pulled the side off the 08 and removed all the shims. The power delivery is now exactly like the 06.
The shims are very thin and we were apprehensive about whether removing them would make that much difference but it definatly worked.
As a side note there is pocedure that we discovered that works pretty well to disassemble the governor. Lay the bike over on its left side so the governor balls don't fall out all over the garage floor. When re-installing the governor balls, we just layed them in the cup and spun the cap until they all fell into their individual slots . It takes a little patients on this part and it helps to have a small ice pick to reach in and position some of the balls in there slots as you rotate the cap.
The main clutch side cover can also give fits to try and remove because it is tight dowled onto the side case. Be patient and try not to use a screw driver to pry it away from the main case. Re- installing is a little tricky also to get the gasket in place on the bottom.

Try and keep all the screws in their perspective holes because it will drive you crazy when you realise there are about 4 or 5 different lengths and some are so close to the same but just enough different that puting too long of screw in will result in a damaged thread or case !
It also helps to look at the parts break down on Gofasters sight or Gas Gas .com.
I wish I would have taken some photos to go along with all of this and if there is enough request maybe we will do it again. Hope this helps everyone.
 
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Very interesting, thank you for the update. I suspected something like this. Did you measure the shims?
 
Great job!! Persistence pays off in this instance. It's great to read when someone just sticks to a funky issue until they figure it out (like the guy from Australia with the 200 who eventually sent his motor to Holland to find out all the things wrong with it from new).

How many shims were there and yeah, what is the thickness of them?

More good "undocumented" info for GG riders. KTM sure makes it much easier with their setup though.
 
The GG power valve was never conceived to be user tunable, so ease of doing it was never a consideration. Measure the shims and check mcmaster.com, they have some metric shims.
 
Thanks 101, I will be pulling mine out tonight! Your persistance paid off !

You will be helping us GasGas riders to like our bikes even more, and
grow the popularity. :) :) :D
 
When re-installing the governor balls, we just layed them in the cup and spun the cap until they all fell into their individual slots .

I put a tiny dab of grease in each of the races - enough to hold the impeller balls in place when I flipped the retainer back over.

Great info - once I get over the clacking, I may go back in and take the shims out.
 
I didn't measure the shims because I didn't really care at that point. The shims for each model year can be read on the parts break down on GasGas.com. They give the sizes on there. The longest bolt goes in the front water pump cover. I do agree that KTMs method is way user friendly. My opinion is that I have never been on a more user friendly motor in my life. I've been on worked over KTMs and have yet to match this combination of the GasGas. I'm not biased I tell black (no pun) and white. The 08 has an RB carb and it is working very well. I need to send it back in to RB for some minor adjustment on the pilot circuit but most of the time it is flawless.We are at 4000 ft of altitude and when the temp is hot it has a slight load up but very liveable. The 08 with this carb(bored to 39mm) revs higher than the 06 with the stock carb and the LTR jetting.

I left a little bit out on the first post but lack of knowing how to explain is the reason. The small bell crank shaft that transfers motion from the PV governor to the rod going up to the PV is the subject. There is a small lever that bolts to the front of the shaft that can be removed to free up the pin behind the governor to allow removal of the governor assembly. It is attatched with a small lock nut. The lever is indexed to the shaft so its a no brainer to remove and re-install. There is no need to completely disassemble the governor . Just slide the governor and all thrust washers, thrust bearings in one assembly , remove the spring and shims and slide the spring and governor back on the shaft. There is a small O-ring on the shaft that also needs removed before sliding the governor assembly off. Don't forget to put it back on. I'm not sure what its for but it looks like just an aid for assembly.

The preload on the power valve rod can be adjusted with the small set screw on the back end of the bell crank . I'm no expert on this but we have an ever so slight preload on the small triangle that rotates the power valve to the stop when the PV is completely closed. This may be where the PV slap is coming from if not adjusted properly ??? Thats about all for now. Thanks for reading through all the B.S. Good luck
 
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Would be nice to hear the results from more people as they do this. I'll be following this thread as more do it.
 
101 Racing..If you don't mind...where are you located...which part of the country?
 
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Recommended Tech Article

The power valve modification, preload setting, etc.. would be a great tech article for our forum. Anyone willing to take pictures and document briefly their procedure. This will be very useful and preserves the information better than "threads".

Who is willing to do this?
 
I'm no expert on this but we have an ever so slight preload on the small triangle that rotates the power valve to the stop when the PV is completely closed.

Thats exactly how it should be, with the governer assy held square into the center case bearing. Your simply removing the play from the system at rest.

My digital camera went belly up before I could document a few other things I had planned. I appologize. I need a new camera but would rather wait a bit and get a nice DSLR than another point and shoot.
 
The power valve modification, preload setting, etc.. would be a great tech article for our forum. Anyone willing to take pictures and document briefly their procedure. This will be very useful and preserves the information better than "threads".

Who is willing to do this?

ROFL - I've been into the right side of my engine 3 times in the past 2 weeks for power valve "issues". I never even thought about taking pictures. If I have to go in again I'll take pictures if someone else will do the write-up on it.
 
Matt,

I have some pics of the parts in their correct positions for the adjustment. I took them over the winter when replacing my starter gears, before the camera died. What format is preferable? Power Point?

Another thing, a simple tool can be made to make this adjustment eaiser. A simple piece of sheet stock strap with a couple bends and three holes. It would bolt to the center case using the cover holes and force the governer in tight to make the adjustment a lot eaiser.
 
Matt,

I have some pics of the parts in their correct positions for the adjustment. I took them over the winter when replacing my starter gears, before the camera died. What format is preferable? Power Point?

When I did my tech articles previously, I just created a basic MSWord document with the pics inserted between the text. Then, I emailed it to Jeff so he could load it on the server and create a HTML version from it.

The funny thing is... I have yet to ever touch the PV assembly on our bikes. Everything else yes, but not the PV. I wouldn't know what to describe for a procedure. I have been following the various PV threads. Since this appears to be a common topic, a tech article seemed to be a natural choice. I was hoping someone knowledgeable on this topic would take the ball on this one (hint, hint). :)
 
When I did my tech articles previously, I just created a basic MSWord document with the pics inserted between the text. Then, I emailed it to Jeff so he could load it on the server and create a HTML version from it.

The funny thing is... I have yet to ever touch the PV assembly on our bikes. Everything else yes, but not the PV. I wouldn't know what to describe for a procedure. I have been following the various PV threads. Since this appears to be a common topic, a tech article seemed to be a natural choice. I was hoping someone knowledgeable on this topic would take the ball on this one (hint, hint). :)

MattR, We are very busy with building a shop and getting it inclosed before the snow flies up here,otherwise I would try and do a step by step. Not good with transfering photo's on these forums either. We have a 200 that we would like to do the works to and maybe later on this fall we will open it up and do some pics. Until we get time I can assure everyone that the PV is staight forward with no mysteries.All mechanical lodgic. After I got into the first 300 I was suprised how simple it is. There were only a couple of things that were nagging, playing musical chairs with the bolts and prying the case out of the location dowls. The bolt size problem could have been avoided with a little more organized discipline on my part . I mentioned that on my orginal post because it would be real easy to ruin a case with too long of bolt in the wrong hole.
 
Matt,

I could do that, but I'm limited on photos. Also, I have a more positive way I'd like to try before documenting. It addition to making a quick governer retention tool, if the governer is preloaded open a small amount with a feeler guage, the rod and plate adjustment will be easy to get perfect, as you will no longer have to load the governer spring by feel and tighten the setscrew at the same time. Makes sense, I just have to try it and get a good number for the preload dimmension.

My '07 PV is fine, my '03 was way off and the bike had poor low end and more rattle when new.
 
Glenn,
It will interesting to see how your ideas work out. So if you don't mind putting this on your to-do list, I think it would be a nice addition to the site.
 
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