Rear Engine Mount

[savage sausage]

1st of all just thought I'd say hello to all you peeps.


I've just bought a '98 six days EC250 last weekend and already got it 75% stripped down as I'm gonna rebuild it,Im having trouble removing the rear engine mount (the one that goes through the frame with 2 nuts either side) I've soaked it in wd40 and got both nuts off,however I cant seem to shift it, I realise that it probably hasn't been out in 13 years but is there anyway it comes out I should know about??

Obviously I've hit it with hammer form both sides and when that didn't work I got a BIGGER hammer but again still not moving.

Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated as I just want to get it completely stripped so I can start on the frame.

 

[bergerhag]

I ended up with the frame in a hydraulic press, took 15 metric tonnes before it loosened, and that was only after one year. Cant imagine what 13 years might do..

 

[lankydoug]

PB Blaster works 100 times better than WD-40. Trust me and try it, it has a catalyst in it that seems to dissolve oxidation which is probably what you're dealing with.

 

[motogroove]

PB Blaster works 100 times better than WD-40.

+1 on PB Blaster

 

[savage sausage]

Hi thanks for the replies,pb blaster i've never heard of it before i'm willing to try it just got to locate some first of all .

 

[savage sausage]

Just checked it out see if it's available in the UK but it looks like US only looks like i'll have to order some in

 

[wasp4banger]

I've used "plus gas", which is available here in UK

http://www.thesitebox.com/lubricants/plusgas.aspx

 

[GasGasDreamer]

sometimes some heat helps break things up.
plus i think the wd, or whatever, is drawn to it.
but not to much for too long.
you can heat up the motor itself a little to help get the wd in there too.
also, if you dont try to drive it out directly...
i mean if it moves a litlle in one direction, then send it back in that direction...
like how you rock a car out of the snow.

 

[savage sausage]

to be honest it looks like im gonna have to heat it up,however it does spin around I can hear lots of grit/rust in there.

I dont know if this is relevant but in between the frame and the swinging arm that moves as well at both ends,so I dont know whether thats got some factor as why it wont knock out.
Im a bit nervous about taking to a garage that has a oxyacetelyne tourch to heat it up in case they damage the engine casing

 

[Caravan Monster]

,Im having trouble removing the rear engine mount (the one that goes through the frame with 2 nuts either side) I've soaked it in wd40 and got both nuts off,however I cant seem to shift it, I realise that it probably hasn't been out in 13 years but is there anyway it comes out I should know about??

I'm assuming you mean the swingarm bolt. If so, this is a common problem. The trick is to lay the bike on it's side, and put some blocks of wood in place between the frame and the workshop floor to stop the frame from flexing when you hit the other end of the bolt with a hammer. It will most likely take a heavy hammer to shift it. I would suggest a 4lb lump hammer.

Take your time and don't go mental at it, and it should be ok. Don't do what a mate of mine did to his suzuki drz, and cut the swingarm off to release the bolt

 

[Caravan Monster]

I dont know if this is relevant but in between the frame and the swinging arm that moves as well at both ends,so I dont know whether thats got some factor as why it wont knock out.

Sounds like the hole through the engine casing might also have got ovalled out with wear. Something to check when the bolt is out.

 

[savage sausage]

Finally got the slag out the swinging arm bearings had totally disintergrated

if your wondering why it took so long the misses had me decorating,so I thought I'd attack the decorating,then when that fookin x factor is on tv I can retire to the comfort and saftey of the garage.