Rear Linkage Needle Bearings

[StuJohnson]

So after installing the new linkage skid plate I started to think how it was rather interesting how the "axle" (per OEM part description) came right out of the front linkage. So decided to remove again and inspect.
Sure enough one of the needle bearings has gone bad.....
Glad I found it, and not glad I have to change it.
And figure if I do one I might as well do both.

Has anyone had to do this??? Dumb question.....

Can you provide me any advice or input on how to remove and install?

Is there a part crossover or GG OEM only?

 

[Brian VT]

You'll have to press them out. Not a big deal. I rig up whatever I have lying around (sockets, bolts, etc.) and use my bench vise.
Might as well check them all. Especially the swingarm bearings. It's easier to regrease them now than to try to get the pivot bolt out after a bearing has gone bad.
Bring them to a bearing supply house to match up. Buy the better bearings (Jap. or German).
Before installing, remove the seals and pack with grease. They usually don't have much in them. Better yet, wash out the grease and lube with Jet Lube.
That's my routine once a year anyway. I haven't had to buy a new bearing in many (6?) years.

 

[GMP]

I'm not surprised, that frame pivot bearing was almost completely dry on my bike when I tore it down new. Its a PIA to grease because its in the frame so I guess it gets less love at the factory. Don't replace the OEM seals, use two 3.5mm orings per side, same orings as the swingarm pivot. Same goes for the seals in the rocker. Its easier to pack the bearings completely with no seals in the way. Install the orings after packing. Mine was in perfect shape when torn down again after six months.

 

[StuJohnson]

Thanks guys for the input and advice.

Quick question.
Can I press these out from one direction or do they need to be extracted out each side? If each side then this is going to be a PITA....

 

[pscook]

Thanks guys for the input and advice.

Quick question.
Can I press these out from one direction or do they need to be extracted out each side? If each side then this is going to be a PITA....

Where in Seattle are you? I'm in Shoreline and can help if you can pull everything off. The shops a bit messy, but I always have room to help sort this kind of stuff out.

 

[GMP]

Being in the steel frame makes it a bit more difficult. Its not a good location to swing a hammer square to drive the old bearings out. I have a selection of old sockets and round stock sections for this purpose. You need a section of pipe with an ID just larger than the bearing OD, a socket or round with a through hole, and a threaded rod/nuts, washers. You want to set it up so that you pull the bearings through and out one side with the socket and into the pipe with a nut and large washer on the rod. You install the same way, but from EACH side, paying attention to seating depth. Measure this before removing old bearings.

Also, add a small extension to your skid plate to cover this pivot bearing tube area in the frame. If it takes a big rock hit and gets damaged to the point of affecting the bearings and their removal, it will make for a bigger problem. Kind of a dumb idea, they should have just made the pivot in a link and used gusseted tabs on the frame.

 

[GasTimppa]

One hour in freezer makes bearings easier to install too.

 

[GMP]

Dry Ice even better. I have access to liquid nitrogen that makes any bearing install a snap.

If you start out fresh with good bearings, packed with moly paste or Pyroplex Blue grease, and use the orings, you will probably never have to do this again.

 

[StuJohnson]

Proof that keeping up on bearing maint is very important.
These are from my Rocker Arm Assembly ---- Uugghh
I expected not to get them out at all. But honestly they pressed right out.

 

[StuJohnson]

Where in Seattle are you? I'm in Shoreline and can help if you can pull everything off. The shops a bit messy, but I always have room to help sort this kind of stuff out.

Eastside... Issaquah.
Appreciate the offer. I was able to get them all out and will back up running next week.
Thanks again

 

[pscook]

Eastside... Issaquah.
Appreciate the offer. I was able to get them all out and will back up running next week.
Thanks again

I am going to order some orings from McMaster Carr as suggested by several members. The orings replace the lip seals and are supposed to seal better. I will have bags of 50 or 100 and I'll set some aside for you, if you want them.

 

[StuJohnson]

Quick update.
I replaced 4 needle bearings in suspension.
I am sure you all probably already figured this out but I did not find in part crossover info.
KTM Part # 58033097000 - Needle Bearing HK2216

Size is exactly the same = 22mm x 28mm x 16mm

Only difference is that the needle bearings are caged vs the OEM was which are not. I don't see this being a problem at all.....?

 

[Jakobi]

I can get the right sized roller bearings from the local store. More importanly, does the inner bushing from the ktm spec up the same?

 

[GMP]

Cageless bearings have more needles and a higher load rating. Is this a problem now? Likely not, but keep your eye on the pivot.

 

[Synergy-Seals]

I can get the right sized roller bearings from the local store. More importanly, does the inner bushing from the ktm spec up the same?

Guys. We have bushings that do not rust.....higher dynamic load than needle roller bearings and the 3.5mm orings available.

Get a hold of me i can help.
Rob