My 2010 300 has had a fair vibration and we have removed the motor from the bike and inspected all mounting points and it turns out where the bolt goes through the rear of the motorit is elongated and worn around 2mm, So from that i have decided we will drill the hole to get it round and put a bush in it. Anyone else had to do this?
Rear of engine wear.
- Thread starter nato
- Start date
wasp4banger
New member
Reckon you need to check all of the other mounts. Are the head straps still OK?
On mine I had the motor work loose after the head mounts broke and wore the rear mount a little.
Had a set of shims made up after loosening all of the engine mounts to ensure a snug fit for the motor within the frame.
On mine I had the motor work loose after the head mounts broke and wore the rear mount a little.
Had a set of shims made up after loosening all of the engine mounts to ensure a snug fit for the motor within the frame.
I have replaced the front mounts after they broke. While i love the light weight gasser I personaly would not mind a little extra weight for things like this. Maybe its just me but little things like this are frustrating. Though they are not annoying enough to stop me getting another one. 
Sierra Gasser
Site Sponsor
I bore the pivot hole on a mill
I have built a jig that holds the case securely for a milling procedure to properly locate & bore the hole out & install a steel bushing.I have seen at least a dozen motors with the hole badly elongated,to the point that the rider can't keep engine mounts tight. you ship em I fix em. If anyone wants this done either send me your cases or I can do the motor for you too .I stock nearly everything in a GG motor so I can do the job right. Email at ntms1@sbcglobal.net attn:Mr. GasGas
I have built a jig that holds the case securely for a milling procedure to properly locate & bore the hole out & install a steel bushing.I have seen at least a dozen motors with the hole badly elongated,to the point that the rider can't keep engine mounts tight. you ship em I fix em. If anyone wants this done either send me your cases or I can do the motor for you too .I stock nearly everything in a GG motor so I can do the job right. Email at ntms1@sbcglobal.net attn:Mr. GasGas
Last edited:
GMP
Active member
Good to have your service available, thanks for the solution and post.
I have had three GG 250s, while the fits varied and linkage reassembly/installation was sometimes a challange on my '00, I never had a problem like this. Never even a loose motor mount. The swingarm pivot has to be torqued to 80Nm first, before the other mounts. Maybe the 300s are more prone to this due to more inherent vibration, but it should not be a problem. If its tight enough it can't vibrate.
I have had three GG 250s, while the fits varied and linkage reassembly/installation was sometimes a challange on my '00, I never had a problem like this. Never even a loose motor mount. The swingarm pivot has to be torqued to 80Nm first, before the other mounts. Maybe the 300s are more prone to this due to more inherent vibration, but it should not be a problem. If its tight enough it can't vibrate.
stainlesscycle
Site Sponsor
Synergy-Seals
Site Sponsor
Boy. I am getting a bottle of red loctite for my new scooter. I am also having my rims trued by TRD in lodi.
stainlesscycle
Site Sponsor
i have not used a drop of red loctite on any of my gg... the only place i've used blue is on the kickstart bolt.
never had a part fall off - aside from a kicker..... well that's not true - i've ripped my share of radiator shrouds off they get safety wired now..
never had a part fall off - aside from a kicker..... well that's not true - i've ripped my share of radiator shrouds off
they get safety wired now..
GMP
Active member
All the M14 linkage bolts, swing arm, rear axel are 81Nm. The frame bracket bolts you can't get a wrench on without an extension (and calculation). I go less with those at 60Nm. Shock is not 39Nm upper and lower, where did that come from? Don't believe the GG manual, many errors, its why I made a chart myself ten years ago. I do top at 60Nm (all steel), and 25Nm lower (all aluminum). You will strip the clevis at 39Nm. If a GG torque spec sounds funny, consult the industrial standard for thread size and type and use that instead.
stainlesscycle
Site Sponsor
i got 39nm in the manual.. i know their specs are goofy - i could see 39 for the top, but not the bottom. the bolts that you need the offset to get to i don't use a torque wrench on. never had one loosen, and since it doesn't pivot there....
thanks, waiting on swingarm bearings to show up and it all goes back together. tighten swingarm pivot first, then the 2 mounts, then linkage, then lower shock, than links. work back so no binding right?
GMP
Active member
Assuming you have the swingarm, linkage and shock off for a normal service, this is what I do:
1) Assemble linkage on bench, with main rocker/bracket bolt hand tight. Pull rods on rocker hand tight.
2) Install linkage assy in frame, install swingarm pivot shaft temorarily to locate brackets relative to frame and engine cases.
3) Torque bracket to frame bolts, main rocker bolt
4) Install shock, bolts hand tight
5) Remove swingarm pivot, install swingarm, reinstall swinarm pivot hand tight.
6) Loosen engine mounts and head stay
7) Torque swingarm pivot 81Nm
8) Torque engine mounts, head stay
9) Temporarily install pull rods to swingarm with bolt, without nut
10) Raise swingarm to preload suspension and take out shock mount play, snug lower shock bolt with open end wrench, torque upper shock mount.
11) Remove pull rod/swingarm bolt and swing down pull rods, torque lower shock bolt.
12) Re-install pull rod to swingarm bolt, again preload suspension, torque pull rod bolts 81Nm.
Note:
Using the swingarm pivot temporarily as a locator when mounting the linkage brackets makes mounting the swingarm much easier, as the holes are pre-alighned and cannot be pushed out of place.
If your frame is such that the linkage brackets are a real PIA to R&R, you can loosen the motor mounts before installing the linkage to the frame. After its in with the pivot temporarily installed, snug them back up so they do not fall out of place when the pivot is removed again.
Sounds like a lot of work, but it took longer to type than it does to do. Been doing it this way since '00 witn no problems.
1) Assemble linkage on bench, with main rocker/bracket bolt hand tight. Pull rods on rocker hand tight.
2) Install linkage assy in frame, install swingarm pivot shaft temorarily to locate brackets relative to frame and engine cases.
3) Torque bracket to frame bolts, main rocker bolt
4) Install shock, bolts hand tight
5) Remove swingarm pivot, install swingarm, reinstall swinarm pivot hand tight.
6) Loosen engine mounts and head stay
7) Torque swingarm pivot 81Nm
8) Torque engine mounts, head stay
9) Temporarily install pull rods to swingarm with bolt, without nut
10) Raise swingarm to preload suspension and take out shock mount play, snug lower shock bolt with open end wrench, torque upper shock mount.
11) Remove pull rod/swingarm bolt and swing down pull rods, torque lower shock bolt.
12) Re-install pull rod to swingarm bolt, again preload suspension, torque pull rod bolts 81Nm.
Note:
Using the swingarm pivot temporarily as a locator when mounting the linkage brackets makes mounting the swingarm much easier, as the holes are pre-alighned and cannot be pushed out of place.
If your frame is such that the linkage brackets are a real PIA to R&R, you can loosen the motor mounts before installing the linkage to the frame. After its in with the pivot temporarily installed, snug them back up so they do not fall out of place when the pivot is removed again.
Sounds like a lot of work, but it took longer to type than it does to do. Been doing it this way since '00 witn no problems.
motogroove
New member
Well, thank you VERY much for typing it.
That can be a really frustrating assembly to get back together when it isn't done in the right order of operations. I may have cursed once or twice.
It's nice to have it written down rather than muddling though trial and error each time.Thanks again.
stainlesscycle
Site Sponsor
GMP
Active member
Glad to help. No red loctite on my bike either. I'd use it on case studs if I had to R&R them, thats it. Blue on certain internal engine fasteners and the kickstarter. Anti-seize on all the suspension bolts, pivot, pivot bore in engine cases, brackets, all mating frame surfaces.
Properly torqued, I have never seen a GG swingarm pivot come loose to the point of damaging the cases like that. What I have seen on my '03 was some weld spatter on the frame boss where the outside edge of the swingarm bushing would seat. I cleaned this up to fix the fit. I could see this causing a potential problem if the pivot was torqued down on an irregular surface. This is very rare though especially on the newer bikes, and you would notice it the first time you tore the rear down for service. For me thats before the bike is ridden.
Properly torqued, I have never seen a GG swingarm pivot come loose to the point of damaging the cases like that. What I have seen on my '03 was some weld spatter on the frame boss where the outside edge of the swingarm bushing would seat. I cleaned this up to fix the fit. I could see this causing a potential problem if the pivot was torqued down on an irregular surface. This is very rare though especially on the newer bikes, and you would notice it the first time you tore the rear down for service. For me thats before the bike is ridden.
