Rear shock preload - Glenn has it figured out

The bearings are not a new idea. At least in road racing Ohilins has been recomending & selling those for a long time & some Ohilins dealers/gurus will not set up a shock without those in place. So I'm sure they work allowing the spring to rotate with out binding keeps the spring rate more consistaint, but on the asphalt the maint. on those would be yearly. In the dirt that thing might be toast after a few rides.
 
Check this out.
Hydraulic pre-load adjuster. 15mm of adjustment with a T handle.

http://www.mergeracing.com/products/HydraulicPreload.php

HydraulicPreload.jpg


HydraulicPreloadInstalled.jpg
 
Just think.
You can have a small pump on the handle bars to change the pre-load on the fly.
Deep sand section coming up........drop that rear end.:eek:
 
My neighbor has one on his BMW road bike (Ohlins) Pretty slick. The Ohlins version has a remote master cyl. on the subframe with a knurled knob you can eaisly grab and turn for adjustment. Great for when he adds bags or a passenger.

Once I got mine where I was happy though, I never touched it.
 
I guess the ultimate would be fully electronically adjustable suspension but I think I prefer what's cheap and reliable. :)
 
Can you post the step-by-step procedure on how to do this.
Thanks.

Pretty easy stuff. The preload is the amount you compress the spring with the adjusting nut/ring. Support the weight of the bike on a stand and back the nut off until it just touches the spring to have zero preload. From that point the more you compress the spring the more preload you have, measured in mm's.
 
I have my sag set at 100mm.

I'm just wondering about the 125-130mm sag.
Wouldn't that "rake" the front end out too much?
 
I have my sag set at 100mm.

I'm just wondering about the 125-130mm sag.
Wouldn't that "rake" the front end out too much?
i have the same question - i just set my preload at 10mm, and i get 120mm of sag.. i normally would run around 105-110mm. will 11mm or 12mm of preload get me to 110 and still not sacrifice rebound etc? it's too cold to go out and run it, but i would think 120 would sacrifice turning ability... i've got a 5.4 spring, ltr lowering link, and 195lbs with full gear. also my static sag is 55mm... seems strange to me (i would assume it would be closer to 35mm... ) - does the lowering link affect static sag that much (i would assume it changes the leverage)?
 
Loose the link, especially if the bike is an '07+. It leverages the spring more in the early travel. You have to experiment with it. Basically you want as little preload as possible, and some you can even make up with compression.
 
stainless I have an 06 300 and got 55mm static sag at 8mm preload w/a 5.4 and stock linkage. I'm 200 to 210#'s geared up. I'm going to throw a 5.6 on just to see what its like.
 
Don't get hung up on those sag #s, especially with the older bikes. You can shorten the shock (like the '07+) and it still steers awesome. Spend an afternoon on the same section of trail with some rocks and logs. You want plush intiial travel with no rebound kick and still retain steering. Also remember the fork affects the shock and visa versa, so it has to be close.
 
Ok,
I have just had the fix done to the sachs shock ,as some of you may already know.
I have to redo all sag settings and was going to check the preload as mentioned above.
Before doing this where do I set my rebound and compression clickers or doesn't it matter.I realise the 10 mm preload is a measured dist . on the shock itself but I was just wondering how much effect the comp and rebound have on this initial setting?
I have a 5.2 spring and I weigh 80Kg,180pounds,(no gear).
I did have 27mm static and 95 race sag before all this was changed but i am not sure what preload.I am guessing more than 10mm as my weight and shock spring would be at the higher end of the scale( i.e. on its limit).
Once I have this sorted I will see how the front reacts ..... it is average now but I have just changed to a proven tyre(michelin).
Maybe more questions to come????
Any ideas and help would be appreciated.
 
Ok,

I have to redo all sag settings and was going to check the preload as mentioned above.
Before doing this where do I set my rebound and compression clickers or doesn't it matter.I realise the 10 mm preload is a measured dist . on the shock itself but I was just wondering how much effect the comp and rebound have on this initial setting?

Any ideas and help would be appreciated.

Your compression and rebound adjuster settings should have no effect on setting the sag, because they only offer resistance when oil is flowing - you're setting the sag in a relatively static state.

Set your static sag (~100-110mm) and then measure free sag (rear suspension drop under the weight of the bike only). You should see something on the order of 15-20mm sag. If you have too much free sag, try a softer spring with more preload.
 
Thanks Steve,
I thought that was the case but just wanted to be sure before doing it.
Cheers Mark.
 
Ok ,
Checked the preload and I reckon I had too much.
I had approximately 16-18mm preload which gave me 85 mm race sag and 24mm static sag .This is only after getting the faulty shock seals etc repaired.
I have now adjusted the preload to 10-11mm on the shock, the static sag is 35mm and race(rider) sag is 110-120mm.
Obviously the fork was now way out so i have also reset this to middle settings on all clickers till I ride it and review it.
Just by sitting on the bike it feels a lot more plush and after playing with the fork the whole package seems a lot more balanced.
Time and a riding test will tell.
I'll keep you posted,
Mark.
 
This is the best article I have ever tried. My ideal setting stopped at 9mm and it feels like im floating over everything, this is the first time I have ever been able to set this up myself and have the front and rear work together.

Thanks Glenn.....
 
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