Rear Wheel Bearings - Installation Tip

[MattR]

This applies to the 2007/2008 bikes, but perhaps 2005+ (if anyone can confirm). Hopefully, this gives everyone a heads-up in order to prevent you from experiencing similar issues.

Background Info:
After installing new bearings, my rear wheel felt like it was binding when the nut was torqued to 60 ft-lbs. The aluminum stepped-washer between the 2 bearings on the sprocket side was replaced with the new bearings. Everything appeared to be lined up ok since the axle slid through easily during mounting.

Root Cause:
I really hated to push out my new bearings, but I needed to find the root cause. After reheating the hub, I tapped out my bearings and removed all spacers, etc..

First, I double-checked to make sure all bearings were correct. On the 2007/2008 bikes, the sprocket side has a large outer bearing (6005) and smaller inner bearing (6004). The brake side has the same smaller bearing (6004). Everything was good according to part numbers.

Next, I made an interesting observation on the aluminum stepped washer. If you hold it up to the light, you can slightly see one side stick out farther than the other. At first I thought it was just imagining something. Well, I held the washer in between the 6005 and 6004 bearings (like installed on the bike). The washer definitely has a slight asymmetric/offset to it. In the correct orientation, the washer OD has a slight clearance to both bearings (perhaps more clearance with the larger 6005 bearing). If you flip the washer over, then the washer OD contacts the larger 6005 bearing on both its OD and ID. This in effect causes the washer to drag on the bearing's OD (not good!). I could also see score/witness marks on the washer OD where it was scraping against the bearing OD.

Since I had my older parts handy, I compared those bearings and washer setup. I noticed the exact same thing (i.e., the asymmetric washer clearances). I could tell by the witness marks from the previous installation which bearing was contacting each washer side. For the record, my previous installation was correct and the washer had proper clearance with the larger 6005 bearing and wheel rotated freely.

Conclusion:
I believe the washer orientation is the root cause why I felt the binding in my rear wheel. I have reassembled my wheel with the washer in it's correct orientation (i.e., to ensure clearance with the larger bearing OD) and it now rotates properly when nut is torqued to 60 ft-lb.

Here is the incorrect installation:

Here is the correct installation:

Here is the stepped washer. Note: I marked the outboard side (with "O") to remind me during installation.

 

[cdn280]

Thanks for the info !

 

[skid jackson]

ok I have an identical binding issue on my 06 300. however I stumbled on this thread before I put my bearings back in. My washer is stepped on both sides btw. anyway I put it back just like in the correct installation pic. plus the washer seemed to want to go back that way anyway. I haven't pulled the wheel apart yet but .... can you think of any reason it would be binding even if the washer and bearings are in correctly?? I packed the area behind the seals with grease a-la the gmp method of water penetration prevention. Would too much grease be an issue?? one other point though I noticed that with the new bearings installed I could not spin the inner races by jambing my fingers in the axle hole. I think the last time I had bearings installed I could do that. I've been told that is not a big deal .. sometimes you can ... somtimes you can't ....

 

[skid jackson]

imo
This thread should be a sticky or put in the technical articles section!!

 

[cladoo]

I am going o have to check mine as I find that my wheel binds somewhat after tightening also. This has been like this from the factory.

 

[MattR]

My washer is stepped on both sides...

I should have clarified this previously. Sorry for the confusion...
Yes, the washer is stepped on both sides. The amount of step is different per side. Hence, the washer is slightly asymmetric. Just be careful with the orientation before installation. Check clearances before installing like my photo shows and everything will be good!

 

[coolum74]

Tahnkyou Matt... Now it all starts to make sense.

 

[NerdFrog]

I just replaced my rear wheel bearings last night. All cleaned up and greased profusely. Assembled and the wheel mounted.

Upon torquing the axle nut on the first time, successive "setting noises" were heard. Even before reaching specified torque of 98Nm, the rear wheel was binding.

I removed the sprocket side bearings carefully and noted that the inner seal of the 6005 bearing had crushed in and was binding the bearing.

I mounted a new bearing with the spacer "backwards" and remounted the wheel. Upon torquing, a few less "setting noises" were heard but the wheel still binds.

On my washer, there are protruding rings on both sides. I ended up installing the washer so that the inner races of both bearings contacted the protruding rings, avoiding any rings contacting the bearing seals.

The wheel still binds, but, oh well, I gotta ride tonight.

 

[GasGas]

I have had this problem ounce before. Then today I mounted up my spare u-rim and bam........Stuck wheel. Removed bearings and flipped washer. Still stuck. So I then mounted up the sprocket side

spacer, big outer bearing , washer and inner bearing with another spacer in the vice. Just snug everything spun nice. But when I tightened up the vise to simulate the torque of the rear axle guess

what.......................The washer had enough give in it to bend over and touch the outer race of the inner bearing. So I flipped the washer and tried it again. It did the same thing both ways. The cause is

the fact that the small surface of the spacer that fits inside the outer bearing is about a mm shy of touching the washer. ( I have 2 factory, 1 aftermarket and one i just made to try and they all have the

same length.) So this being the case the larger inner race on the outter bearing bends the washer around the smaller inner race of the inner bearing. I suspect that with repeated wheel changes the

washer just gets fatigued enough to give into the 60 lbs torque of the rear axle.

I will make a steel washer as a replacement. But for the hare scramble tomorrow, I just cut off the thin part of the washer. It now spins like butter!

 

[400_racer]

Hi All, first post

Having just bought an EC300 needing a few bits 'tinkering' with, this has been a really useful forum!

Ive tried searching but found nothing on this possible issue...

Im replacing the rear wheel bearings, old bearings came out ok and im now fitting the new ones. Have fitted the two on the sprocket side, with the washer in the middle in the correct orientation.

However, both bearings have locked up solid when in situ, is this normal? Doesnt seem right to me. I guess its where the washer contacts the inner race of both bearings or someting, but surely the washer and both inner races should turn together freely?

Thinking back, the old bearings were the same when in place, so maybe this is right and once all torqued up and pulled together they turn.

Have left the disc side bearing out for the time being incase the others need removing.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any advice!

Adrian

 

[cbutler]

Sounds like the washer is in backwards, the bearings should turn. When you torqued the axle it will be worse.

 

[400_racer]

All fine now Just checked by sliding the spindle through and applying a bit of radial load and they spun freely. So put the bearing in the other side and then tried it on the bike all tightened up (without the main wheel seals) and they span lovely! They also spin fine now off the bike too.

I guess they just needed setting and coupled with adding more grease inside them before fitting made them hard to turn initially.

Thanks for your repsonse

Ad

 

[LAWMAN]

Here's a little mystery for you GasGas scholars: I needed to change the rear wheel bearings in my '07 300 for the 1st time (haven't been able to ride it much til lately). I read this thread 3 times & studied the photos of the washer at length.

I got out this morning before church & banged out the old bearings & surprise: No washer! I went ahead & changed the bearings & they seem fine, except that if I go all the way to 60 ft. Lbs. On my torque wrench, the wheel binds, but it will go to about 59 lbs., so that may be just the tolerances in the wrench.

So is my bike missing a part it should have, or did they make a change at the factory on the fly?

 

[GasGas]

Yes, you are missing the spacer between the bearings. The original is aluminum, but they wear out and bend into the other bearing causing it to bind. I just made a replacement made from steel.

 

[LAWMAN]

ok thanks!

 

[imsimon]

Does the spacer come in a bearing kit or do you just use the one that comes out? Couldnt see where I could buy one (uk) i know some have made there own but im not clever like that!

 

[Peter]

Just another thought because I am changing my bearings currently. The bigger bearing is specified as "6005 2RSR C3". This is a special bearing with greater bearing clearance. Using a standard 6005 bearing, which has identical dimensions, could cause binding of the wheel because of too little axial clearance.

Peter

 

[thumperflipper]

Lawman, I changed my bearings when I first bought my used 07...The washer I took out was totally fried...smashed flat and distorted in several ways. Factory install? Replaced wrong by prior owner? I bought new bearings from Mark at Gofasters, and he included the "updated" washer with the bearings and helped me with orientation of it. Good people there. 2 years of riding without any binding

 

[MNKeith]

After wrestling with wheel bearings over the years and now most recently with some very, very corroded rears out of my '08, I found the best tool to date on removing these damn things.

This set of pry bars, I use the 12" for wheel bearing removal. Narrow enough to get a bite but long/strong enough to smack it with a 5lb sledge.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pry-bars/3-piece-pry-bar-set-68339.html

Get the inner wheel spacer tilted so you can get the pry bar tip on the inner lip of the old bearing, then WACK. Done. No more chisel, stake or screwdriver attempts.

 

[spooly]

Just to clarify..im buying barings tomorrow..is it 2 6004rs and 1 6005rs barings I need?? 2007 ec 300

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