cbutler
Member
If you heat the hub with a torch they come right out (does not take much)
If you put the new ones in the freezer for an hour or so and reheat the hub they go in very slick.
Rear Wheel Bearings - Installation Tip
- Thread starter MattR
- Start date
If you heat the hub with a torch they come right out (does not take much)
If you put the new ones in the freezer for an hour or so and reheat the hub they go in very slick.
spooly
New member
so I decided to revisit this tread with some results regarding the whole washer feaskio...my guy who has plenty of gg experience done my rear barings..he had a new stainless steel centre spacer made because the stock spacer wad crap and decreased in size and caused my barings to bind and collapse..I had the hole stepped washer conversation with him before he done the barings and he politely told me "he new what he was doing" lol so when I collected the wheel I asked about the washer and he told me he left the washer out..so after some riding, 2 races one enduro, one motocross everything seem tight and free moving..
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
spooly
New member
I don't sorry..and im not taking it out to find out.lol all I know is the spacer has to be slightly bigger then the center of the hub..so that when tightened the barings are pressing against the spacer and not the hub....iv the wheel off at the moment if I can measure the spacer I will and post the measurement...I don't have a vernier callipers big enough I think
cbutler
Member
If you are talking about #37 in the finch you can replace it any time. Somewhere on the site there is a link to a stainless steel one that wont wear
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...=13&make=gasgasdb&a=52&b=24&c=0&d=-REAR-WHEEL
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...=13&make=gasgasdb&a=52&b=24&c=0&d=-REAR-WHEEL
swazi_matt
Active member
If you are replacing seals and spacers go for the skf wheel seal spacer kit you will like it and the deign should last longer than oem
http://slavensracing.com/shop/wheel-seal-kits-for-ktm-husaberg-by-skf/
http://slavensracing.com/shop/wheel-seal-kits-for-ktm-husaberg-by-skf/
I appear to be having this same issue with the rear bearings in my '09 EC300; however, it appears the spacer I have is symmetric, so I'm a little baffled. I looked at the gap between the spacer and the bearings' outer races with the spacer flipped one way, then the other, and it was identical. I also closely inspected the spacer and it really seemed that the location of the inner, raised surface was the same diameter on each side. Maybe it was the cold garage effecting my brain. Or the cold beer.
I can put about 20-30 ft-lb torque on the axle then I start to notice resistance when spinning the rear wheel. At 60 ft-lb the rear still turns, but the friction is quite noticeable.
Did the spacer design change in '09?
I'm also a bit confused by this design. Generally when you tap or press a bearing in you do it until the outer race seats against a bearing pocket. But in the case of the larger bearing you need to have a gap between its outer race and the spacer - if you go until the outer race is firmly seated, then it's going to be contacting the thinner edge of the washer. Additionally, the outer race might then be pressed in past where the inner race has been seated against the thicker part of the spacer. Is the solution to this to make sure you tap or press the bearing in with a solid-faced cylinder (e.g. the back side, not the open end of a socket) so you also contact the inner race? That also doesn't seem entirely right, since then you'd be putting a side load on the inner race of the inner bearing to provide your stopping point (and transferring a side load to the inner race of the brake-side bearing via the inner spacer tube)
Clearly I'm confused as to how this three-bearing-with-spacer system is supposed to be properly reassembled.
Help! 
I can put about 20-30 ft-lb torque on the axle then I start to notice resistance when spinning the rear wheel. At 60 ft-lb the rear still turns, but the friction is quite noticeable.
Did the spacer design change in '09?
I'm also a bit confused by this design. Generally when you tap or press a bearing in you do it until the outer race seats against a bearing pocket. But in the case of the larger bearing you need to have a gap between its outer race and the spacer - if you go until the outer race is firmly seated, then it's going to be contacting the thinner edge of the washer. Additionally, the outer race might then be pressed in past where the inner race has been seated against the thicker part of the spacer. Is the solution to this to make sure you tap or press the bearing in with a solid-faced cylinder (e.g. the back side, not the open end of a socket) so you also contact the inner race? That also doesn't seem entirely right, since then you'd be putting a side load on the inner race of the inner bearing to provide your stopping point (and transferring a side load to the inner race of the brake-side bearing via the inner spacer tube)
Clearly I'm confused as to how this three-bearing-with-spacer system is supposed to be properly reassembled.
Help! periclesgsilva
New member
Need the same info. .bad spacer explode my right bearing
GGLoops
New member
Bearing bind on rear wheel
Alright.... good news from the north
Rebuilt the 06 GG250EC over the winter, new everthing from the rear linkage back... last item on my list was to swap out the rear wheel bearings and seals with new ones, same problem arose with the wheel drag at only 30lbs on the nut....never had this issue before.... back apart it came and onto the forum we go to find out what I missed??
Here is what we have boys....The old hub washer between the sprocket side bearings was the issue causing the binding.... you need a new one!
1.The washer is machined flat (no bend) from the factory
Washer size new.......
- Thickness 2mm centre (.078").........This one is important!!!
- Thickness 1mm outside (.039)
- Steps are the same diameter 29.50mm (1.162")
- Steps are incut 0.50mm (.020") both sides
- OD overall @ 41.80mm (1.627")
- ID 20mm (.787")
2.Over 10 years of re torquing the rear axel nut to 60lbs with tire swaps it slowly bends the washer over due to the slight difference in the two sprocket side bearings ID differentials, making it look bent. (should not look that way)
3.The washer slowly looses its original factory 2mm centre thickness and at the same time slowly increasing the tolorances in the outside sprocket side bearing.
4. The slow over time wear on both the washer and outside bearing allows the wheel to to stay free when 60lbs is on the axel nut and everyones happy.
5.One day we notice the outside bearings getting noisy and we decide to change it because we should and wham..... new bearings, seals and the old bent washer all installed, new tire as well..... 60 lbs on the axel nut and she binds???
6. What just happened is you have just side loaded the new outer bearing, sprocket side with the loss in washer thickness, maybe only a .05 mm or a few .001" for you americans, but in bearing world its enough side load on the bearing to cause the binding issue. Go riding with side load on that bearing and you will have pre mature bearing failure for sure... not good!
My advice is to always replace the washer (part#58) or as they call it Interior Hub Washer on the parts list, when replacing rear wheel bearings and seals. You may also want to replace your newly installed outer sprocket side bearing again if you have removed it to install the NEW Washer, as you more than likely damaged it pulling it out by the inner race, your call? 10 bucks well spent in my mind!
My bike is fixed and ready to roll. Hope this helps.
GG Loops
Alright.... good news from the north
Rebuilt the 06 GG250EC over the winter, new everthing from the rear linkage back... last item on my list was to swap out the rear wheel bearings and seals with new ones, same problem arose with the wheel drag at only 30lbs on the nut....never had this issue before.... back apart it came and onto the forum we go to find out what I missed??
Here is what we have boys....The old hub washer between the sprocket side bearings was the issue causing the binding.... you need a new one!
1.The washer is machined flat (no bend) from the factory
Washer size new.......
- Thickness 2mm centre (.078").........This one is important!!!
- Thickness 1mm outside (.039)
- Steps are the same diameter 29.50mm (1.162")
- Steps are incut 0.50mm (.020") both sides
- OD overall @ 41.80mm (1.627")
- ID 20mm (.787")
2.Over 10 years of re torquing the rear axel nut to 60lbs with tire swaps it slowly bends the washer over due to the slight difference in the two sprocket side bearings ID differentials, making it look bent. (should not look that way)
3.The washer slowly looses its original factory 2mm centre thickness and at the same time slowly increasing the tolorances in the outside sprocket side bearing.
4. The slow over time wear on both the washer and outside bearing allows the wheel to to stay free when 60lbs is on the axel nut and everyones happy.
5.One day we notice the outside bearings getting noisy and we decide to change it because we should and wham..... new bearings, seals and the old bent washer all installed, new tire as well..... 60 lbs on the axel nut and she binds???
6. What just happened is you have just side loaded the new outer bearing, sprocket side with the loss in washer thickness, maybe only a .05 mm or a few .001" for you americans, but in bearing world its enough side load on the bearing to cause the binding issue. Go riding with side load on that bearing and you will have pre mature bearing failure for sure... not good!
My advice is to always replace the washer (part#58) or as they call it Interior Hub Washer on the parts list, when replacing rear wheel bearings and seals. You may also want to replace your newly installed outer sprocket side bearing again if you have removed it to install the NEW Washer, as you more than likely damaged it pulling it out by the inner race, your call? 10 bucks well spent in my mind!
My bike is fixed and ready to roll. Hope this helps.
GG Loops
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
The rear wheel bearing and spacer configuration was changed in the 2003 year model; so yes, the 2004 rear wheel is the "new style" and the same as the 2005.
Good Riding!
Jim
shawnyoung319
New member
rear wheel bearing spacer
have a 2005 ec300 love the bike never knew it was supposed to have the small spacer on the drive side i got one and wow what a difference it made the wheel spins so free now
have a 2005 ec300 love the bike never knew it was supposed to have the small spacer on the drive side i got one and wow what a difference it made the wheel spins so free now
Guys... I have Gasgas EC250 2008 racing with AJP wheel hubs... parts catalogue says I have 3 bearings in rear wheel... 6004 on right side and 6005 and 6204 on left... but I have checked it and it looks that I have 6004 instead of 6204 on left side.. Is it mistake in parts catalogue or my hub is different? Although on right side I have 6004 and seal but without seeger... and I have strange spacers as I have ID of hub 45mm and bearing and seal have OD 42mm, but maybe ex-owner have repaired damaged hub this way.
CDN Rick
Silver Level Site Supporter
Are you sure you aren't missing the very thin small spacer that goes between the two bearings? Its commonly misplaced and will lead to a very rapid deterioration of the wheel bearings.
